You've probably seen the photos. Skeletal fish remains crunching underfoot like snow, abandoned trailers rotting in the desert sun, and a vast, shimmering blue expanse that looks—from a distance, at least—like a tropical paradise. It isn't. Not even close. The Salton Sea is easily one of the most complicated, misunderstood, and frankly smelling places in the United States. It sits in the Colorado Desert, straddling Riverside and Imperial counties, roughly 230 feet below sea level. It’s a mistake. A big one.
In 1905, the Colorado River breached a dike. For two years, the entire flow of the river poured into the Salton Sink. By the time engineers stopped the flooding, California had a new inland sea. It’s huge. We're talking 340 square miles of water. During the 1950s, it was a resort destination that rivaled Palm Springs. Frank Sinatra hung out there. The Beach Boys too. Fast forward to today, and the vibe is more "post-apocalyptic wasteland" than "riviera."
What Really Happened to the Salton Sea?
The problem is that the sea has no outlet. It’s a closed basin. Water goes in via agricultural runoff, but it only leaves through evaporation. When water evaporates, it leaves everything else behind. Salt. Pesticides. Fertilizer. Over the decades, the salinity has skyrocketed. It is now roughly twice as salty as the Pacific Ocean. Most of the fish species that once thrived here—orange-mouth corvina, sargo, and croaker—are gone. Only the hardy Mozambique tilapia can really hack it now, and even they die off in massive numbers when oxygen levels dip during the summer.
Honestly, it’s a bit of a tragedy. The lake is shrinking because of the Quantified Settlement Agreement (QSA) of 2003. This deal diverted water away from the Imperial Valley to the thirsty coastal cities like San Diego. Less water for farmers means less runoff for the sea. As the shoreline recedes, it exposes the "playa"—the dusty lakebed. This isn't just regular sand. It’s a fine, toxic powder laced with arsenic, selenium, and DDT from decades of farming. When the Santa Ana winds kick up, this dust gets carried into the lungs of people living in the Imperial Valley. Respiratory issues here are off the charts. It’s a public health nightmare.
The Smell and the Science
If you visit on a hot August day, the smell will hit you miles before you see the water. It’s a thick, sulfurous stench. People often blame the dead fish, but it’s actually more about the biology of the lake bottom. The water is "eutrophic," meaning it’s overloaded with nutrients from fertilizer. This causes massive algae blooms. When the algae dies and sinks, bacteria break it down, stripping the water of oxygen and releasing hydrogen sulfide gas. It's basically the smell of a dying ecosystem.
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Is it worth visiting? Surprisingly, yes. But you have to know what you’re looking at.
Why the Salton Sea Still Matters Today
Despite the decay, this place is a vital stop on the Pacific Flyway. Since California has lost over 90% of its natural wetlands to development, millions of migratory birds have nowhere else to go. You’ll see American White Pelicans, Eared Grebes, and Double-crested Cormorants by the thousands. It is a birder’s paradise in a very weird setting.
There’s also the lithium.
Underneath the southern end of the sea lies one of the world's largest deposits of "white gold." We need lithium for EV batteries. Companies like Berkshire Hathaway Energy and Controlled Thermal Resources are betting big on the Salton Sea geothermal field. They want to extract lithium from the brine that's already being pumped up for geothermal power. If they pull it off, this area—currently one of the poorest in California—could become a global hub for green energy. It’s a weird irony. A dying lake sitting on top of the solution for a greener future.
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Places You Actually Need to See
- Bombay Beach: This was once a thriving resort. Now, it’s an intentional art colony. Artists have moved in among the ruins to create sculptures out of junk. The "Bombay Beach Ruins" are haunting. You might see a rusted-out piano sitting in the mud or a swing set that goes nowhere. It’s extremely photogenic in a grim way.
- The International Banana Museum: Located in North Shore. It’s exactly what it sounds like. Over 25,000 banana-related items. It’s the kind of kitsch that makes the desert bearable.
- Salton Sea State Recreation Area: This is the "official" entry point. There’s a visitor center and some campgrounds. It’s the best place to get a sense of the scale of the water. Just don't plan on swimming. Seriously. Don't.
- Salvation Mountain: Technically a few miles away in Niland, but you can’t talk about the sea without mentioning it. Leonard Knight spent decades building this massive, colorful monument to love out of hay and lead-based paint. It’s the gateway to Slab City, the "last free place on earth."
The Battle to Save the Shoreline
Governmental gridlock has defined the Salton Sea for forty years. There have been dozens of "master plans." Some suggested pumping in water from the Sea of Cortez. Others wanted to build a massive "North Lake" to preserve the habitat. Most of these died because of the price tag. We're talking billions.
Currently, the Salton Sea Management Program (SSMP) is working on dust suppression projects. They are building species conservation habitats—essentially managed ponds on the exposed playa to keep the dust down and provide a place for birds to eat. It’s a race against time. The lake is receding faster than the restoration projects are being built.
One thing people get wrong is thinking the lake is "natural." It’s not. But it’s also not "unnatural" anymore. It has become a permanent fixture of the California landscape. If we let it dry up completely, the dust storms could make the Coachella Valley—and its billion-dollar tourism industry—uninhabitable. The stakes are much higher than just a few dead fish.
Understanding the Nuance
Some environmentalists argue we should just let it go and focus on the lithium. Others say that’s a death sentence for the local communities. The truth is somewhere in the middle. We probably can’t "save" the whole sea to its former glory. It’s too big and water is too scarce. The goal now is "managed decline." Shrink it safely. Keep the dust down. Save the birds.
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What You Should Do If You Go
If you’re planning a trip to see the Salton Sea for yourself, go in the winter. November to February is beautiful. The temperature is in the 70s, and the birds are everywhere.
- Bring plenty of water. There aren't many gas stations once you get down into the southern basin.
- Wear closed-toe shoes. The "sand" is actually billions of crushed barnacles and fish bones. It’s sharp.
- Check the wind forecast. If a dust storm is predicted, stay away. Your lungs will thank you.
- Support local businesses. Eat at the Ski Inn in Bombay Beach. It’s the lowest bar in the Western Hemisphere (elevation-wise). The locals have some of the best stories you’ll ever hear.
This place is a mirror. It shows us our mistakes, our engineering hubris, and our resilience. It’s ugly, beautiful, quiet, and loud all at once. Whether it becomes a toxic dust bowl or a lithium-powered miracle is still up in the air.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
To truly understand the Salton Sea, start your journey at the North Shore Yacht Club. It was designed by Albert Frey and has been beautifully restored. From there, drive down Highway 111 toward Bombay Beach.
Take a moment to step out of the car and just listen. The silence of the desert mixed with the lapping of the salty water is something you won't find anywhere else. If you're interested in the policy side, look up the Pacific Institute's reports on the sea; they provide the most sobering, factual data on the receding shoreline. Finally, if you're a photographer, golden hour at the sea is unmatched. The salt crust reflects the purple hues of the Santa Rosa mountains in a way that looks like another planet.
The Salton Sea isn't a vacation spot in the traditional sense. It’s a lesson in ecology and a warning of what happens when we manage water poorly. Go see it before it changes even more.
Next Steps for the curious traveler: Research the current status of the Salton Sea Management Program 10-Year Plan to see which dust suppression projects are currently active. If you are visiting, combine your trip with a stop at Slab City and Salvation Mountain to get a full picture of the desert's unique subculture. Use a high-clearance vehicle if you plan on driving near the shoreline, as the mud underneath the salt crust can be a trap for standard cars. Check the air quality index (AQI) via the South Coast Air Quality Management District before heading out to ensure the playa dust isn't at hazardous levels during your visit.