If you’ve ever watched a grainy news clip of white-clad runners sprinting down a narrow cobblestone street with half-ton beasts hot on their heels, you’ve seen the Running of the Bulls. Or, as it's more formally known in Spain, the Encierro. Most people think it’s just a chaotic stampede of adrenaline junkies looking for a death wish. It isn't. Not exactly.
It is actually a highly choreographed, deeply traditional, and incredibly dangerous logistical feat that happens every July in Pamplona. People call it the parade of the bulls sometimes, but let’s be real: a parade implies floats and candy. This is raw power, ancient history, and a fair amount of wood-aged wine mixed into one massive street party.
The San Fermín festival isn't just about the run, though that’s what makes the headlines. It’s a week-long marathon of sleep deprivation.
Why Do They Even Do This?
Honestly, the whole thing started because of logistics. Back in the day, butchers and herders needed to get the bulls from the corral outside the city walls to the bullring (Plaza de Toros) for the afternoon fights. There were no trucks. No trailers. They had to hoof it.
Eventually, young men started jumping in front of the animals to show off. It was basically the 14th-century version of a viral TikTok challenge, except with much higher stakes and zero filters. By the late 1800s, it had morphed into the organized (sorta) event we see today. Ernest Hemingway is largely responsible for making it a global phenomenon. His 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises turned a local Navarrese tradition into a bucket-list item for every American college student and adventurer with a passport.
The "parade" is actually a transfer of six fighting bulls and several steers (cabestros). The steers are the unsung heroes. They wear bells and their job is to keep the fighting bulls in a pack. Without them, the bulls would scatter, and a lone bull is a terrified, murderous bull.
The Brutal Reality of the Route
The course is only 875 meters long. That’s less than half a mile. Most people think the runners do the whole thing. They don't. You can't. If you try to run the whole way, you’re either a world-class sprinter or you’re going to get trampled because you’re exhausted.
The run starts at the slope of Santo Domingo. This is the most dangerous part. The bulls are fresh. They’re fast. They have more energy than they will at any other point in the run. If you trip here, you’re in trouble because there are very few places to hide.
Then there’s "Dead Man’s Corner" (La Curva). It’s a 90-degree turn where the bulls’ momentum often carries them sliding into the wooden barricades. If you’re standing on the outside of that curve, you’re basically a bowling pin.
- Santo Domingo: Steep, fast, terrifying.
- Ayuntamiento: The town hall square where the path widens slightly.
- Mercaderes: The short stretch leading to the infamous turn.
- Estafeta: The longest stretch. This is where the bulls usually start to string out.
- Telefónica: The bottleneck before the tunnel.
- Callejón: The narrow tunnel into the arena.
The tunnel is a nightmare. It’s narrow. If someone falls at the entrance, it creates a "pile-up" (montón). In 1977 and again in 2013, these piles were so thick that the bulls literally ran over the top of a human carpet. It’s the stuff of actual nightmares.
How to Not Die (Basically)
First off, don't be drunk. The police pull hundreds of people out of the line every morning because they’re stumbling. If you’ve been up all night drinking Sangria, the cobblestones are not your friend.
You need to wear the uniform. White shirt, white pants, red neckerchief (pañuelico), and a red sash. Why white? It’s tradition, but it also makes the blood show up really well, which is a grim thought that locals don't mind sharing with you.
When the first rocket goes off at 8:00 AM, the corral gates are open. The second rocket means all the bulls are out. That’s when the real panic sets in. You’ll hear the bells of the steers first. Then you’ll hear the thunder. You don't look back. Looking back is how you hit a lamp post or another runner. You look ahead, find your gap, and run like your life depends on it—because it kinda does.
If you fall, stay down. This is the golden rule. Do not try to get up. A bull will jump over a stationary object, but if you’re half-standing, you’re going to get a horn in the ribs. Cover your head with your arms and wait for the "sweeper" steers to pass.
The Controversy and the Future
We have to talk about the elephant—or rather, the bull—in the room. Animal rights groups like PETA protest the parade of the bulls every single year. Their argument is straightforward: the bulls are terrified, they often slip and injure themselves on the stone, and the whole event leads to their death in the ring later that afternoon.
The locals view it differently. For them, it’s about the Toro Bravo, a specific breed of bull that lives a life of luxury on open ranges for four years before its one "bad day." They see it as a celebration of the animal's power. It’s a cultural clash that isn't going away anytime soon.
Is it ethical? That’s for you to decide. But from a purely historical and sociological perspective, the San Fermín festival is one of the last places on earth where the line between "civilized society" and "wild nature" is completely blurred for three minutes every morning.
Expert Tips for the San Fermín Spectator
If you aren't crazy enough to run, you have to find a balcony. The street level is blocked off by double wooden fences. These fences are designed so runners can duck through them, but spectators aren't allowed to hang off them.
- Book a balcony months in advance. People rent out their apartments for thousands of Euros.
- Watch the "Apartado" later. This is when the bulls are sorted for the evening's fight. It’s a much quieter, more intense experience.
- Eat the breakfast. After the run, everyone goes for chocolate con churros or a massive plate of eggs and ham. The tension release in the city at 8:30 AM is palpable.
- Respect the past. Since 1910, 16 people have died in the run. The most recent was Daniel Jimeno Romero in 2009. This isn't a game.
The Impact on Pamplona
The city grows from 200,000 people to over a million during the first week of July. It’s a massive economic engine for the Navarre region. Every hotel within a 50-mile radius is booked.
📖 Related: Finding the Best Directions to Hollywood Florida Without Getting Stuck in Traffic
But it’s also a strain. The cleaning crews are the real MVPs. They wash thousands of gallons of wine and trash off the streets every single night to make the city presentable for the 8:00 AM run. It’s a cycle of chaos and cleanliness that repeats for nine days straight.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
If you’re serious about witnessing or participating in this event, you can't just wing it.
- Check the dates: San Fermín always starts on July 6th with the Chupinazo (the opening rocket) and the runs happen from July 7th to the 14th.
- Train for a sprint: If you plan to run, practice 100-meter dashes on uneven surfaces. Seriously.
- Buy quality gear: Cheap sneakers will slip on the morning dew/wine/grime on the cobblestones. You need grip.
- Learn the "Miau": There’s a specific way the locals chant before the run, asking Saint Fermín for protection. Learn it. It’s respectful.
- Secure your valuables: Pickpockets love a crowd of a million people wearing white. Use a hidden money belt under your sash.
The Running of the Bulls isn't just a spectacle; it’s a visceral reminder of a time when humans lived much closer to the edge. Whether you’re running for your life or watching from a safe third-floor balcony with a coffee in hand, the vibration of the bulls' hooves hitting the pavement is something you feel in your chest. It’s loud, it’s smelly, it’s dangerous, and it’s undeniably real.
If you go, remember that you are a guest in a tradition that predates your country. Respect the bulls, respect the locals, and for heaven's sake, keep your eyes open.
📖 Related: Getting from Ontario CA to Oakland: Why the Flight is Usually Better Than the Drive
Next Steps for Your Journey
- Secure a Balcony Spot: Visit the official Pamplona tourism site or reputable local agencies like SanFermin.com to book a viewing spot early.
- Read the Rules: Familiarize yourself with the municipal ordinances. Touching the bulls or running with a GoPro in your hand can result in massive fines (up to €3,000) or arrest.
- Understand the Risks: Review the historical data on injuries provided by the Red Cross (Cruz Roja Española), who staff the route every morning.