The Royal Sands Koh Rong: Is Cambodia’s Most Famous Luxury Resort Actually Worth the Boat Ride?

The Royal Sands Koh Rong: Is Cambodia’s Most Famous Luxury Resort Actually Worth the Boat Ride?

You’ve probably seen the photos. Pure white sand that looks like powdered sugar and water so clear it feels like a swimming pool. That’s the Royal Sands Koh Rong. It’s the kind of place that shows up on "World’s Best" lists, usually framed by a palm leaf and filtered to high heaven. But honestly? Getting to a private island in Cambodia isn't exactly like hopping on a flight to Cancun. It takes effort. It takes a ferry. It takes a certain level of commitment to the idea of "getting away from it all."

Most people heading to Cambodia focus on the temples of Siem Reap. They spend three days getting "templed out" at Angkor Wat and then realize they need a vacation from their vacation. That’s usually when the Royal Sands Koh Rong enters the conversation. It is, by almost any metric, the most ambitious luxury project on the island. But Koh Rong itself is a weird place. It’s a mix of backpacker party hubs and high-end seclusion. The Royal Sands sits firmly in the latter camp, occupying a massive stretch of Long Beach (Sok San Beach).

If you're looking for nightlife or a bustling town square, stop reading. You won't find it here. This is a 5-star bubble.

The Reality of Getting to Royal Sands Koh Rong

Let’s talk logistics because this is where people get tripped up. You don't just "arrive" at the resort. First, you have to get to Sihanoukville. A decade ago, this was a sleepy coastal town; now, it’s a sprawling forest of high-rise casinos and construction. It’s jarring. However, the resort operates its own private lounge at the pier, which acts as a sort of transition zone.

The boat ride takes about 45 to 60 minutes depending on the Gulf of Thailand's mood that day.

The resort uses a custom-built catamaran. It’s fast. It’s clean. When you pull up to the private pier at the Royal Sands Koh Rong, the contrast with the mainland is immediate. The noise stops. The air smells like salt instead of exhaust. The resort itself sprawls across the western coast of the island, which is a big deal because it means you get the sunset every single night. Most of the other "nice" spots on the island are on the eastern side, meaning they’re dark by 5:00 PM. Here, the sky turns a violent shade of pink while you’re still in the pool.

Architecture That Doesn't Try Too Hard

The design isn't trying to be a futuristic spaceship. It’s "tropical chic," which is a fancy way of saying lots of high ceilings, teak wood, and open-air spaces. There are 67 villas. That’s it. For a property this size, that’s a tiny number of guests. You can walk for ten minutes on the beach and not pass another soul.

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Each villa is basically a house. The entry-level Ocean View Villas are huge, but the ones you really want are the Beachfront Villas. You open your sliding glass door and your feet are in the sand within three steps. No joke.

The bathrooms are arguably the highlight. They have these massive outdoor showers and tubs. There is something fundamentally liberating about showering under a canopy of stars while the ocean crashes a few yards away. It feels primitive and expensive at the same time. The air conditioning is ice cold, which is a non-negotiable in the Cambodian humidity, and the Wi-Fi actually works, though why you’d want to check emails here is beyond me.

What You’re Actually Going to Eat

Food is usually the Achilles' heel of island resorts. You're a captive audience, so resorts often get lazy. At the Royal Sands Koh Rong, they have two main spots: The Ocean Restaurant and the Chill Lounge.

The breakfast spread is significant. We're talking fresh honeycomb, a noodle station that hits the spot after a night of drinking Angkor beer, and fruit that actually tastes like fruit. For dinner, it’s a mix of Khmer flavors and Western staples. If you haven't had Khmer Amok—a coconut curry steamed in banana leaves—order it immediately. It’s the national dish for a reason.

The prices? Yeah, they're high for Cambodia. You’re going to pay $25 for a main course when you could get fried rice for $3 in a local village. That’s the "resort tax." But the quality is there. They source a lot of seafood locally, so the crab and squid are about as fresh as it gets.

The "Long Beach" Factor

The stretch of sand the resort sits on is called Sok San, or more commonly, Long Beach. It is roughly 7 kilometers of blindingly white sand. Because the Royal Sands Koh Rong owns a huge chunk of it, they keep it pristine.

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One thing people don't tell you about tropical islands? Sandflies. They can be a nightmare on Koh Rong. However, the resort staff rakes the sand constantly and uses eco-friendly deterrents. It makes a massive difference. If you wander too far down the beach toward the public areas, you might get nipped, but the resort grounds are usually a safe zone.

The water is shallow. You can walk out 50 meters and it’s still only at your waist. This makes it terrible for serious lap swimming in the ocean, but it’s perfect for just floating with a drink in your hand. For actual swimming, the infinity pool is the move. It’s one of those pools where the edge disappears into the horizon, and it’s large enough that you never feel like you're bumping into someone’s kids.

Is It Eco-Friendly or Just Greenwashing?

Cambodia has a plastic problem. It’s heartbreaking to see beautiful islands littered with water bottles. The Royal Sands Koh Rong seems to actually care about this. They have an on-site water bottling plant to eliminate single-use plastics. They use glass bottles in the rooms. They also fund a lot of the local community projects in the nearby Sok San village.

It isn't perfect—no luxury resort is—but they are clearly trying to preserve the environment that makes people want to visit in the first place. They also offer tours to see the bioluminescent plankton at night. If you’ve never seen the ocean glow blue when you move your hands through it, do it. It’s one of the few things in life that actually lives up to the hype.

The Competition: Royal Sands vs. Song Saa

If you’re looking at this level of luxury, you’ve probably also seen Song Saa Private Island.

Song Saa is "ultra-luxe." It’s more intimate, more expensive, and more "all-inclusive" in its vibe. The Royal Sands Koh Rong is more grounded. It’s bigger, feels more like a traditional resort, and is generally more accessible (though still pricey). If you want to feel like you’re on a private estate, go to Song Saa. If you want a world-class beach and a massive villa with a private pool, the Royal Sands is the better value.

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What Most People Get Wrong

People think Koh Rong is just a party island. They think it's all fire dancers and buckets of cheap gin. That exists in Koh Touch, the main village. But the Royal Sands Koh Rong is a world away from that. You literally cannot hear the music from the party side of the island.

Another misconception? That you can just "pop over" to the other islands. You can, but it’s expensive. Private boat charters are the way to go, but they'll run you a couple hundred dollars. Most people who stay here don't leave the property for three or four days, and honestly, that’s the right way to do it.

The Nuance of Service

Service in Cambodia is different than in Thailand or Vietnam. It’s incredibly genuine, but it can be slower. People here are kind, truly kind. They will remember your name and how you like your coffee. But if you’re the type of person who gets angry if a club sandwich takes 20 minutes instead of 15, you might need to check your blood pressure. You’re on island time. Embrace the slow.

Things to Actually Do (Besides Tanning)

  • Mountain Biking: The resort has bikes. The trails behind the property are rugged and will give you a real workout.
  • The Spa: It’s expensive, but the Khmer massage is a deep-tissue experience that will fix whatever your flight from New York or London broke.
  • Snorkeling: Take the boat out to nearby Pagoda Island. The reef there is still healthy, and you’ll see plenty of parrotfish and the occasional sea turtle.
  • Sok San Village: Take a walk or a quick boat ride to the local village. It’s a glimpse into real island life, with small wooden houses and kids playing in the dirt. It puts the luxury of the resort into perspective.

Critical Planning Steps for Your Trip

Don't just wing it. If you're planning a stay at the Royal Sands Koh Rong, keep these points in mind:

  1. Book the Boat in Advance: The resort's private catamaran has a fixed schedule. If you miss the last boat (usually around 4:00 PM), you are stuck in Sihanoukville for the night. Trust me, you do not want to be stuck in Sihanoukville.
  2. The Season Matters: Do not go in August or September unless you love torrential rain. The best time is November through April. January is peak "perfect weather" season, but it's also the most crowded.
  3. Bring Cash (Small Amounts): While the resort takes cards, if you want to tip the boat crew or buy something in the local village, you’ll need US Dollars or Cambodian Riel. Small, crisp US bills are king here.
  4. Sunscreen is Gold: Buy it before you get to the island. The resort shop sells it, but it’s priced like liquid gold.
  5. Stay at Least Three Nights: Any less and the travel time to get there isn't worth it. You need at least 72 hours to actually let your heart rate drop.

The Royal Sands Koh Rong isn't just a hotel; it's a statement about what Cambodian tourism can be. It’s a shift away from the "backpacker only" reputation the islands had for decades. Is it pricey? Yes. Is it a bit of a mission to get to? Definitely. But when you’re sitting on that white sand, watching the sun dip below the Gulf of Thailand with a cold drink in your hand, none of that matters. It’s one of those rare places that actually looks like the postcard. Just remember to pack your bug spray and leave your "hurry" at the pier.