If you’ve ever scrolled through photos of Tenerife, you’ve seen it. That massive, terracotta-red Moroccan fortress clinging to a cliffside on the island's west coast. It looks like something straight out of a Bond film, or maybe a very expensive dream. That’s The Ritz-Carlton Abama.
Honestly, most people think it’s just another "big resort." They assume it’s all buffets and screaming kids at the pool. But after spending time there, you realize it’s actually more like two or three different hotels living inside one giant, pink shell. It’s weirdly private for being so huge.
Why the "Citadel vs. Retreat" Choice Actually Matters
Most guests book a room without really understanding the layout. Big mistake. The resort is basically split into two worlds: The Citadel and The Retreat.
The Citadel is the main hub. It’s where the "buzz" is. If you want to be close to the shops, the lobby bar, and the sprawling Lagoon pool, stay here. The architecture is all Moorish arches and hidden courtyards. It’s beautiful, but it can feel busy during peak season.
Then there’s The Retreat (formerly called the Villas). This is where the smart money goes. These are two-story casitas tucked away in the botanical gardens. You get your own "lane pool" shared only by a few rooms. If you’re in an Adults-Only section of the Retreat, they literally bring you free snacks and beer by the pool all day. It’s basically an all-inclusive experience without the "all-inclusive" vibe.
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- Pro Tip: If you have a baby, book a Retreat room on the ground floor. You can sit on your terrace while the baby naps inside, and you’re literally three steps from a pool.
- The Golf Cart Perk: Staying in a suite? You get your own golf cart. Driving those things through the winding, palm-lined paths is half the fun.
The Michelin Star Situation
You don't come to The Ritz-Carlton Abama to lose weight. You come here because it’s one of the few places on earth where a single resort holds three Michelin stars across two different restaurants.
M.B. is the crown jewel. It’s Martín Berasategui’s signature spot, holding two stars. It is formal. You need long trousers. You need a reservation weeks in advance. The food? It's Basque-inspired madness in the best way possible. Think "broken eggs" reimagined with potato foam that tastes like a cloud made of butter.
Then there’s Akira Back. It recently replaced the old Kabuki spot and brought a much more high-energy, modern Japanese vibe to the island. The "Tuna Pizza" with truffle oil is the dish everyone talks about. Is it "authentic" Japanese? Maybe not. Is it delicious? Absolutely.
If you want something chill, go to Verde Mar. It’s a newer concept where vegetables are the star and meat is the side dish. It sounds healthy, but the way they cook local Canarian potatoes (papas arrugadas) makes it feel indulgent.
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Secrets of the "Private" Beach
Here’s the thing: in Spain, all beaches are public. So no, the Abama beach isn't technically private. But because the resort is built on a massive cliff, the only way for the public to get there is a very long, sweaty walk.
For you? You take the funicular. It’s a glass elevator that slides down the side of the mountain.
The sand is golden—which is rare for Tenerife’s naturally black-sand coastline—and the water is tucked into a cove, so it’s usually calm enough for a swim even when the Atlantic is acting up. There’s a beach club at the bottom that serves a killer sangria, and they’ll charge everything to your room.
The Golf and Spa Escape
If you aren't a golfer, the Abama Golf course is still worth looking at. It was designed by Dave Thomas and features about 25,000 palm trees. Every single hole except one has a view of the ocean. It’s widely considered one of the most challenging (and beautiful) courses in Spain.
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Not into sports? Hit the spa. They have a "Wellness Circuit" based on Roman baths. You go from a Turkish hammam to a cold plunge, then through a "World of Showers" that mimics tropical rain and Arctic mists. It’s 25 euros if you don't have a treatment booked, which is honestly the best value in the whole hotel.
What Nobody Tells You
- The Microclimate: Guía de Isora (where the hotel is) gets more sun than the north of the island. Even if it's cloudy at the airport, it’s probably sunny at the Abama.
- The Land Train: There’s a little train that loops around the resort every 30 minutes. Use it. The resort is built on a steep hill, and your calves will thank you.
- The "Stay" App: Download it. You can book dinner, order more towels, or request a buggy ride without talking to anyone.
Is It Worth the Price Tag?
Let's be real: The Ritz-Carlton Abama isn't cheap. You’re looking at 400 to 1,000+ euros a night depending on the season and the room.
But here’s why it works: it manages to be a world-class family resort and a romantic couples' getaway at the same time without the two groups ever annoying each other. The "Ritz Kids" club is the largest in Europe (it’s basically a campus), which keeps the little ones busy while the adults hide at the adults-only infinity pool at El Mirador.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
- Book the Retreat, Not the Citadel: If you want peace and quiet, the price jump for the Retreat casitas is worth every cent for the semi-private pool access alone.
- Reserve M.B. 3 Weeks Out: Don't wait until you check in. The 2-Michelin-star tables go fast, especially on weekends.
- Fly into Tenerife South (TFS): The resort is only 25 minutes from the south airport. If you fly into the north (TFN), you’re looking at a 1.5-hour drive.
- Pack "Seaside Chic": The dress codes are real. Pack a nice dress or a collared shirt for dinner, or you'll be stuck eating room service.
- Hit the Spa Early: Go to the wellness circuit on your first day to shake off the jet lag. The volcanic rock foot bath is a game-changer.
The Abama isn't just a hotel; it’s a destination you don't really need to leave. Just make sure you bring your walking shoes—or a very high tolerance for golf cart rides.