You’ve been there. It’s Hanukkah, or maybe just a Tuesday when you’re craving salt and oil, and you’re standing over a spitting cast-iron skillet. You’ve got your bowl of grated spuds, your eggs, and your hopes. But ten minutes later, you’re looking at a pile of limp, greyish-brown mush that’s more "mashed potato pancake" than the shattered-glass-crispy disc of your dreams. It sucks. Honestly, making potato and sweet potato latkes is one of those culinary tasks that seems deceptively easy—it’s just shredded vegetables and fat, right?—but actually requires a weirdly specific understanding of plant biology and moisture management.
The thing is, most recipes lie to you. They tell you to "squeeze out the liquid." They don't tell you that if you don't squeeze it until your forearms ache, you've already lost the battle. Whether you're using a classic Russet or a bright orange Garnet yam, water is the enemy of the Maillard reaction.
Why Starch is the Secret Hero of Potato and Sweet Potato Latkes
Let’s talk about the science for a second, because that’s where the magic happens. When you grate a potato, you’re rupturing cells. This releases water and starch. Most people squeeze the water into the sink and throw it away. Huge mistake. Huge. If you let that liquid sit in a bowl for five minutes, a thick layer of white sludge settles at the bottom. That is pure, unadulterated potato starch.
Professional chefs, like J. Kenji López-Alt, have long championed the "save the starch" method. You pour off the brown water, keep that white sludge, and mix it back into your batter. It acts as a natural glue. It’s way better than flour. Flour makes things cakey. Starch makes things crunch.
When you introduce sweet potatoes into the mix, the game changes. Sweet potatoes (which are actually yams in most US grocery stores, though botanically different) have way more sugar and way less starch than a Russet. This means they burn faster. If you treat a sweet potato latke exactly like a white potato one, you’ll end up with a blackened exterior and a raw, crunchy interior. Nobody wants that. The trick is a 50/50 blend or adjusting your heat down about ten degrees.
The Grater Debate: Box vs. Food Processor
Does the tool matter? Yes.
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If you use the fine holes on a box grater, you get a dense, almost creamy latke (think tots style). If you use the large holes, you get those long, spindly "spider legs" that turn into localized shards of fried gold. Most experts suggest the large holes. You want surface area. More surface area equals more space for the oil to do its job.
Some people swear by the food processor because it’s fast. Sure, it’s fast. But the blade can sometimes "weep" the potatoes more than a sharp grater, leading to more oxidation. If your potatoes turn grey or pink, it’s just oxidation—it won’t kill you, but it looks unappetizing. A splash of lemon juice or grating directly into cold water can stop this, but then you're back to the moisture problem.
The Moisture Manifesto
You need a kitchen towel. Not a wimpy paper towel. A real, lint-free flour sack towel.
- Grate your potatoes and onions together.
- Dump them into the center of the towel.
- Twist the top like you’re trying to wring the neck of a literal demon.
- Keep twisting until not a single drop of liquid comes out.
If you think you're done, you're probably 70% of the way there. Squeeze again. This is especially vital for sweet potatoes, which feel drier but actually hold quite a bit of internal moisture that releases the moment it hits the heat.
Oil Temperature and the "First Latke" Sacrifice
We need to talk about the oil. Do not use olive oil. It has a low smoke point and will make your kitchen smell like a burnt Mediterranean forest. Use something neutral with a high smoke point: grapeseed, canola, or the traditional choice, schmaltz (rendered chicken fat).
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The oil needs to be 350°F. If you don't have a thermometer, drop a tiny piece of potato in. If it sizzles instantly, you’re good. If it sits there looking sad, wait.
The first latke is always a sacrificial lamb. It’s the one where you realize your seasoning is off or your oil isn't hot enough. Eat it over the sink. It’s your reward for the labor.
Common Misconceptions About Sweet Potato Variations
People think sweet potato latkes are "healthier." Honestly? Not really. Once you deep-fry them, the caloric difference is negligible. What is different is the flavor profile. Sweet potatoes pair incredibly well with savory-spicy notes. While a standard potato latke begs for sour cream and applesauce, a sweet potato version can handle things like:
- Sriracha mayo.
- Lime zest and cilantro.
- A dollop of Greek yogurt with cumin.
- Hot honey.
Joan Nathan, the matriarch of Jewish cooking, often points out that latkes weren't even originally made of potatoes. In the 14th century, they were made of cheese. Potatoes didn't even arrive in Europe until much later. So, if someone tells you that adding sweet potato isn't "traditional," you can tell them that "tradition" is a moving target.
Binding Agents: Flour vs. Matzo Meal
What should you use to hold it all together?
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- Matzo Meal: Traditional. It adds a specific "toasty" flavor but can make the latkes heavy if you use too much.
- All-Purpose Flour: Standard. It’s fine, but can get gummy.
- Potato Starch: The gold standard for crispiness.
- Gluten-Free Flour: Works surprisingly well here because you aren't looking for gluten development anyway.
Most people use way too much binder. You only need enough to barely coat the strands. It’s a latke, not a pancake.
Handling the Onion Problem
Onions are essential for flavor. They also contain a ton of water. The best way to handle them is to grate them right into the potatoes and squeeze them out together. This infuses the potato strands with onion juice without adding extra liquid to the frying pan.
Pro tip: use a yellow onion. Red onions turn a weird, bruised purple color when fried, and white onions can be a bit too sharp.
Storage and Reheating (Don't Use the Microwave)
If you have leftovers—rare, but it happens—never put them in the microwave. You’ll turn that hard-earned crispiness into a soggy sponge.
Instead, put them on a wire rack over a baking sheet and pop them into a 375°F oven for about five to eight minutes. The wire rack is crucial because it allows hot air to circulate under the latke, re-crisping the bottom.
Summary of Key Steps for the Perfect Batch
- Russets are king: Use high-starch potatoes for the best structure.
- Drainage is non-negotiable: Squeeze until your hands hurt.
- Don't crowd the pan: If you put too many latkes in at once, the oil temperature drops, and the potatoes will boil in oil rather than fry.
- Salt late: Salt draws out moisture. If you salt the batter and let it sit, the batter will get watery again. Salt them the second they come out of the oil.
Actionable Next Steps
To get started on the best potato and sweet potato latkes you've ever made, follow this workflow:
- Source the right spuds: Buy 2 lbs of Russet potatoes and 1 lb of Garnet sweet potatoes.
- Prep the station: Get your flour sack towel and a large colander ready before you start grating.
- Check your oil: Use a heavy-bottomed pan like a cast-iron skillet to maintain heat consistency.
- Experiment with toppings: Move beyond the jarred applesauce. Try a quick homemade cranberry-ginger compote or a whipped feta dip to balance the sweetness of the yams.
- Monitor the color: Keep a close eye on the sweet potato shreds, as their higher sugar content means they will brown significantly faster than the white potatoes. If the edges look dark but the center feels soft, turn down your flame immediately.