You smell it before you see it. That heavy, spiced, steam-filled aroma that only comes from brisket that has been living in a pressurized cooker for hours on end. If you’ve ever stepped into Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market, you know the drill. You navigate the crowds, dodge the tourists taking photos of Amish donuts, and eventually, you find yourself staring at a mountain of meat behind a glass counter. This is Hershel's East Side Deli. It isn’t just a sandwich shop; it’s basically a time capsule of Jewish deli culture that feels like it was ripped straight out of 1950s New York and dropped into the heart of Philly.
Most people get it wrong. They think a deli is just about the bread and the mustard. It’s not. It’s about the "schneid." Watching the guys at Hershel’s work a carving knife is like watching a surgeon, if surgeons wore aprons and handed out samples of fatty brisket to keep the crowd from getting restless.
What Makes Hershel's East Side Deli Different?
Honestly, it’s the lack of shortcuts. In a world of pre-sliced, vacuum-sealed deli meats, Hershel's is an outlier. They specialize in the classics: pastrami, corned beef, and brisket. But the pastrami is the star. It’s cured, smoked, and then steamed until it’s so tender it practically threatens to fall apart if you look at it too hard.
There’s a specific technique here. They hand-carve everything to order. This matters more than you think. When you use a mechanical slicer, the friction of the blade can actually warm the fat and change the texture of the meat. By hand-carving against the grain, the carvers at Hershel's East Side Deli ensure that every slice maintains its structural integrity while remaining incredibly soft.
The menu is tight. You won't find 50 different wraps or "fusion" paninis here. You’re there for the basics.
- The Pastrami Sandwich: Served on rye, usually with a smear of spicy brown mustard.
- The Corned Beef: Salty, lean (or fatty, if you're smart enough to ask), and piled high.
- Matzah Ball Soup: The kind that actually tastes like someone’s grandmother made it, with a "floater" ball that isn’t a lead weight.
- Potato Latkes: Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and roughly the size of a small hubcap.
The New York Connection in Philadelphia
It’s no secret that the inspiration for Hershel’s comes from the legendary delis of the Lower East Side. Specifically, the owner, Andrew Auwerda, and the namesake, Hershel (who was Andrew’s uncle and a veteran of the iconic Katz’s Deli), wanted to bring that specific "big city" deli energy to Philly. It worked.
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The vibe is chaotic. It’s loud. There is almost always a line, especially on Saturdays when the market is a sea of humanity. But the line moves fast. The staff has that classic deli brusqueness—not rude, just efficient. They know you’re hungry. They know there are fifty people behind you. They just want to know: "Lean or juicy?"
Always choose juicy. Always.
The Secret to the Perfect Sandwich
If you’re a first-timer, you might be tempted to overcomplicate things. Don't. A Hershel's East Side Deli sandwich is a lesson in minimalism.
The rye bread is sturdy enough to hold the weight but soft enough to yield. The meat is the main event. Most sandwiches here use about 10 to 12 ounces of meat. That’s more than half a pound. If you try to add lettuce, tomato, or mayo to a hot pastrami sandwich, you’re basically committing a culinary crime in the eyes of deli purists. The fat from the meat is the condiment. The steam is the moisture.
Why Brisket is the Ultimate Test
While the pastrami gets the Instagram fame, the brisket is the true test of a deli’s soul. Brisket is a fickle beast. If you cook it five minutes too long, it’s mush. Five minutes too short, and it’s a rubber band. At Hershel’s, they cook it until the connective tissue has completely melted into a gelatinous richness. They serve it with a side of au jus or gravy that is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. It’s heavy. It’s salty. It’s perfect.
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You’ve got to appreciate the "bark"—that dark, seasoned outer layer of the meat. That’s where the flavor lives. When the carver hits that end-piece, you’ve hit the lottery.
Surviving the Reading Terminal Market Rush
Let’s talk logistics. You can’t just walk into the market at 12:30 PM on a Friday and expect a relaxing sit-down meal. Hershel's East Side Deli is a high-traffic destination.
- The Counter Strategy: There are a few stools at the counter. If you snag one, you get a front-row seat to the carving action. It’s the best seat in the house.
- The Sampling: If the carver offers you a little scrap of meat while you wait, take it. It’s a tradition. It’s also their way of making sure the seasoning is hitting the mark that day.
- The Sides: Don't sleep on the pickles. A real deli sandwich requires the acidic snap of a half-sour pickle to cut through the fat of the meat. It’s a biological necessity.
- Timing: If you want the full experience without the 20-minute wait, go at 10:30 AM. It’s never too early for pastrami.
The Cost of Quality
Some people complain about the prices. Yes, a sandwich might run you close to $20 depending on what you get. But look at the math. You are getting nearly a pound of high-quality, hand-carved beef that took days to cure and hours to steam. You aren’t paying for a sandwich; you’re paying for a labor-intensive process that most restaurants are too lazy to do themselves.
Beyond the Sandwich: The Other Hits
While the meat is the draw, the "East Side" part of the name implies a broader Jewish soul food menu. The Kasha Varnishkes (buckwheat groats with bow-tie pasta and onions) is a rare find in modern cities, but they have it. The Mish Mash Soup is the "everything" bowl—it usually includes a matzah ball, kreplach (Jewish dumplings), noodles, and carrots. It’s basically a cure for the common cold and a bad mood.
Then there are the Knishes. These are thick, doughy pillows filled with potato or meat. They are dense. They are filling. If you buy a sandwich and a knish, you should probably clear your schedule for a three-hour nap immediately afterward.
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Why it Matters in 2026
In an era of "ghost kitchens" and food delivered by robots, places like Hershel's East Side Deli feel increasingly vital. There is a human element to someone asking you how you want your meat sliced and then handing you a warm sample. It’s a tactile, sensory experience that can’t be replicated by an app.
The deli is a bridge between the old-world Jewish immigrants of New York and the modern food scene of Philadelphia. It’s messy. It’s crowded. It’s unapologetically loud. And it is, without a doubt, one of the best things you can eat in the city of brotherly love.
How to Do Hershel's Like a Pro
To get the most out of your visit, keep these three things in mind. First, don't be afraid of the fat. A "lean" pastrami is a dry pastrami. Second, use the Russian dressing sparingly—let the meat speak for itself. Third, take a pint of the mustard home.
If you're visiting Philly, or even if you live there and usually just grab a cheesesteak, make the trip to the market. Look for the neon sign. Look for the steam. Look for the guys with the big knives.
Next Steps for the Hungry Traveler:
- Check the Reading Terminal Market hours before you go; they usually close by 6:00 PM.
- Bring a friend so you can split a Pastrami sandwich and a Reuben to try both.
- Grab a seat in the central seating area if the counter is full, but keep an eye out for departing diners—it’s a competitive sport.
- Make sure to ask for extra napkins. You’re going to need them.