So, you want a duck. Maybe you saw a video of one wearing a tiny bowtie, or perhaps you just like the idea of fresh eggs every morning. Whatever the reason, you’re probably asking: how much is a baby duck?
The short answer? Not much. The long answer? It’s complicated.
Actually, buying the bird is the cheapest part of this entire adventure. You can walk into a local farm supply store like Tractor Supply Co. or Orscheln during "Chick Days" and walk out with a duckling for about $5. It’s basically the price of a fancy latte. But if you think that five-dollar bill is the end of the story, you’re in for a massive surprise.
The Sticker Price: How Much Is a Baby Duck at the Hatchery?
When you look at prices from major hatcheries like Metzer Farms or Meyer Hatchery, you’ll see a range. Common breeds like the Peking (those big white ones) usually go for $5 to $8 each. If you want something a bit more specialized, like a Cayuga with its shimmering beetle-green feathers or a Khaki Campbell known for insane egg production, you might pay $8 to $12.
Rare breeds? That’s where things get pricey.
Silver Appleyards or Magpies can easily fetch $15 or $20 per duckling. And then there are the "show quality" birds. If you’re looking for a duck that meets specific American Poultry Association standards, you aren't shopping at a local feed store. You're contacting private breeders where a single duckling might cost $30, plus a hefty shipping fee.
Shipping is the silent killer of your budget. Most hatcheries have a minimum order requirement—often 10 or 15 ducklings—to ensure the birds stay warm during transit. If you only want two, you’ll likely pay a "small order fee" and a "bio-secure shipping fee" that can total $50 or more. Suddenly, your $10 pair of ducks costs $60 before they even hit your porch.
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Sexing and Why It Changes the Price
Most people don’t realize that "straight run" ducks are cheaper. "Straight run" is just a fancy way of saying "we haven't checked if it's a boy or a girl." You take what you get.
If you want a guaranteed female (a duck) because you want eggs, or a guaranteed male (a drake) because you like their curly tail feathers, you pay a premium. Sexing a duckling requires a trained professional to perform "vent sexing," which is exactly as invasive as it sounds. This usually adds $2 to $5 per bird.
Wait. You should know that sexing isn't 100% accurate. Even the pros at the big hatcheries get it wrong about 5% to 10% of the time. You might pay for a girl and end up with a very loud boy.
The "Starter Kit" Trap
You can’t just put a baby duck in a cardboard box and hope for the best. They are fragile. They are messy. Honestly, they are poop machines.
To keep them alive, you need a brooder. This can be a large plastic galvanized tub or a dedicated wooden box. You’ll need a heat source. While the old-school red heat lamps are cheap ($15), they are also notorious fire hazards. Many modern duck owners are switching to radiant heat plates, which cost around $40 to $60 but won't burn your garage down.
Then there’s the bedding. You’ll go through pine shavings like you wouldn't believe. Ducklings don't just drink water; they play in it. They cross-contaminate their water and their bedding within seconds. Expect to spend $20 a month just on shavings during the first few weeks.
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Waterers and feeders? Another $30. And don't buy the ones made for chickens. Ducks have wide bills. They need to be able to submerge their entire head in water to clear their nostrils. If they can't do that, they get respiratory infections.
Beyond the Initial Purchase: The Hidden Costs
Let's talk about food. You cannot feed a duckling "medicated" chicken starter. The medication (usually amprolium) is designed for chicks, and because ducks eat way more than chickens, they can actually overdose on it.
You need a high-quality non-medicated starter crumble. More importantly, ducks need niacin. Without enough Vitamin B3 (niacin), a duckling’s legs will bow out, and they eventually won't be able to walk. Most commercial feeds don't have enough niacin for waterfowl, so you’ll find yourself buying brewer’s yeast to sprinkle on their food. That’s another $15 bottle every few weeks.
The Real Budget Breakdown (First 6 Months)
- Ducklings (3 Peking): $18
- Shipping/Small Order Fees: $45
- Brooder & Heat Plate: $70
- Feed & Niacin Supplements: $120
- Bedding: $80
- Predator-Proof Coop/Run: $300 - $1,000+
Total? You’re looking at a minimum of $600 to get three ducks through their first six months. That $5 duckling is starting to look a lot more expensive, right?
The Vet Bill Nobody Expects
Most suburban vets won't even look at a duck. You have to find an "exotic" vet. If your duck gets a respiratory infection or "bumblefoot" (a nasty staph infection on the foot pad), a single office visit can cost $100. If they need antibiotics or—God forbid—surgery to remove a swallowed penny, you’re looking at a $500 bill.
It’s a hard reality. Many people treat ducks as "disposable" livestock because they were so cheap to buy. But if you view them as pets, you have to be prepared for the financial reality of avian healthcare.
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Legal Costs and the "Hidden" Fines
Before you spend a dime on a duckling, check your local zoning laws. I cannot stress this enough. Some cities allow chickens but specifically ban roosters and ducks. Ducks are loud. A female Peking at 6:00 AM can be heard from three houses away.
If a neighbor complains and you’re in violation of city code, you might face daily fines or be forced to rehome your birds immediately. Rehoming an adult duck is surprisingly difficult—shelters are often full, and "free to good home" ads often attract people looking for Sunday dinner, not a pet.
Why Quality Matters Over Price
I’ve seen people buy the cheapest "mystery" ducks from flea markets. Don't do it. These birds are often poorly bred, prone to neurological issues, or have been kept in unsanitary conditions. Buying from a reputable hatchery like Metzer Farms or a local NPIP (National Poultry Improvement Plan) certified breeder ensures you aren't bringing salmonella or duck virus enteritis into your backyard.
Paying $12 for a healthy, vaccinated duckling is infinitely cheaper than paying $3 for a sick one that dies in three days and breaks your heart.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Duck Owner
If you’ve weighed the costs and you’re still ready to commit to the quack, here is your roadmap:
- Check Zoning First: Call your city planning office. Specifically ask about "waterfowl." Do not assume they fall under the same rules as chickens.
- Build the Coop BEFORE Buying: Do not bring ducklings home thinking you'll build a house for them later. They grow at an alarming rate. They will be too big for their brooder in four weeks.
- Find a Niacin Source: Buy a large bag of food-grade brewer's yeast or a liquid B-complex. Start adding it to their water/food on day one.
- Secure Your Water Source: Ducks need a way to bathe, but they also need to stay safe from predators. If you're building a pond, factor in the cost of a high-end filtration system. Duck pond water is basically "poop soup" and will clog standard pond filters in hours.
- Buy in Threes: Ducks are intensely social. Never buy just one. If one dies, a pair becomes a lonely single bird. Three is the magic number for a stable "flock" dynamic.
Owning ducks is a messy, hilarious, and rewarding experience. Just make sure your wallet is as ready as your backyard. The price of the bird is just the cover charge for a very long, very muddy party.