Walk down Frederick Street on a Tuesday afternoon and you might miss it. Honestly, thousands of people do. They’re too busy staring at the castle or rushing toward the shops on George Street to notice the modest black railings and the staircase leading into the ground. But if you’ve lived in Edinburgh long enough, you know that the best stuff usually happens in the basements.
The Queens Arms Frederick Street Edinburgh isn’t your typical "Old Town" tourist trap where the bagpipes are piped in through hidden speakers and the haggis is frozen. It's a New Town staple that feels like a library that someone accidentally (or very intentionally) turned into a pub. It’s dark. It’s woody. It smells like malt and old paper.
The Secret Underground Library Vibe
Most people walk in and immediately think they’ve stumbled into a private gentleman's club from the 1800s. You’ve got these massive leather Chesterfields, walls lined with actual books, and those little copper-topped booths that are perfect for plotting a heist or, more likely, just hiding from the horizontal Scottish rain.
There’s a weird misconception that this place is "ancient." While the building is part of the historic New Town fabric, the pub itself is a masterpiece of what I call "curated heritage." It was overhauled years ago to move away from being just another forgettable city-centre boozer. Now, it’s got Mary Queen of Scots looking down from the walls and chandeliers made of wine glasses. It’s kitsch, sure, but it’s done with such conviction that it actually works.
If you’re looking for a quiet spot to read the paper with a pint of Cold Town Beer, this is the place. But—and this is a big "but"—only before 5:00 PM. After that, the "hidden jewel" vibe shifts gears into something way more high-energy.
What You Need to Know About the Food
Don't just come here for a bag of crisps. The kitchen at The Queens Arms takes itself surprisingly seriously. They lean heavily into the "Scottish Heart" philosophy, which basically means they source from local suppliers and try not to mess with the ingredients too much.
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The Sunday Roast Situation
This is the big one. If you haven't booked a table for a Sunday roast, don't even bother showing up and expecting a seat. It sells out. Constantly.
- The Sharing Board: They do this massive beef roast served on a board. It’s designed for two, but honestly, it could probably feed a small clan.
- The Trimmings: We’re talking proper Yorkshire puddings, duck fat roasties, and honey-glazed roots.
- The Pinkness: Note to the wary—they tend to serve their beef pink. If you’re the "well-done" type, you’ve gotta speak up early, or you're going to be staring at some very rare slices of Scottish beef.
The Weekday "Scran"
If you’re stopping by on a Wednesday, the menu is a mix of pub classics and slightly more "chef-y" stuff. The Royal Mac and Cheese is a local legend because they toss in pulled ham hock and top it with a duck fat crumb. It's the kind of meal that requires a nap immediately afterward. They also do a solid Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties with a whisky peppercorn sauce that isn't just for show—it’s actually balanced and not overly salty.
The Rugby, The Sport, and The Noise
Here is where some people get it wrong: they expect a library silence all night.
Wrong.
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The Queens Arms is the Official Away Match Hub for Edinburgh Rugby. When there’s a game on, the place transformed. There are five high-definition screens, and the "banter" (their words, not mine) gets loud. It’s a great atmosphere if you’re a fan—they even have "We will, We will, Ruck You" branding on the team's shorts—but if you’re looking for a romantic first date during the Six Nations, you might want to check the schedule first.
The staff are surprisingly good at managing the chaos, though. Even when the bar is three-deep with fans in navy jerseys, they usually manage to keep the Guinness flowing without a twenty-minute wait.
Pints, Drams, and Cask Ales
You can't talk about a New Town basement pub without talking about the booze. They are big on Cold Town Beer, which is brewed right here in Edinburgh. It’s fresh. It hasn't traveled halfway across the country in a warm truck.
If you’re a whisky person, the gantry is intimidating. They’ve got over 50 malts back there. Don't just order a "whisky." Ask the bartender for a recommendation based on what you usually like. They’ve got everything from the peaty monsters of Islay to the smoother, floral Speysides. Sometimes they do whisky flights, which is a great way to try three different drams without ending up under the table.
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A Few Realities to Keep in Mind
It’s not all sunshine and rainbows (this is Edinburgh, after all).
- The Stairs: If you have mobility issues, The Queens Arms is tough. It’s a basement. There are stairs. There is no magic elevator.
- The Heat: Because it’s underground and usually packed, it can get toasty. Dress in layers.
- The Booking: I mentioned it for the roast, but it applies to Friday nights too. It’s a popular spot for the after-work crowd from the offices on George Street.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to head down to Frederick Street, here’s how to do it like a local.
- Check the Fixtures: Before you go, check if Scotland or Edinburgh Rugby is playing. If they are, expect a crowd. If that’s not your vibe, go on a Monday or Tuesday.
- Book the Booth: If you're a group of 4-6, call ahead and specifically ask for one of the copper-topped booths. It’s the best seat in the house.
- Try the Pie: If the Sunday roast is sold out (and it might be), the Pie of the Day is usually the runner-up champion. It’s proper pastry, not just a puff-pastry lid dropped on a bowl of stew.
- The Quiz: They run a pub quiz every Sunday night starting around 8:00 PM. It’s a great way to wind down the weekend, and the prizes are actually worth winning.
The Queens Arms Frederick Street Edinburgh is one of those rare places that manages to be a sports bar, a gastropub, and a cozy local all at once. It shouldn't work, but between the leather chairs and the pints of Cold Town, it absolutely does. Just remember to duck your head as you go down the stairs.