If you drive about seven kilometers south of Derby in Western Australia, you’ll run into a tree that looks like it belongs in a Tolkien novel. It's massive. It’s bulbous. It has a hollow trunk that spans over 14 meters in circumference. This is the Prison Boab Tree Derby, a botanical giant that has become one of the most photographed spots in the Kimberley region. But here is the thing: most of what people tell you about its history is probably wrong.
Walking up to it feels weirdly heavy. The bark is scarred with carvings from decades of tourists, and there’s a fence around it now to keep people from squeezing inside. You see, for years, the local legend was that the tree served as a temporary "lock-up" for Indigenous prisoners being walked into Derby during the late 19th century.
It’s a grim story.
The Myth and the Reality of the "Prison" Tree
For a long time, the narrative was simple. Police officers bringing
Aboriginal prisoners from the remote stations would stop at this tree. They’d shove the men inside the hollow belly of the boab for the night before finishing the trek into town. It’s a vivid image. It’s also largely unsupported by the primary police records of the time.
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Kristyn Harman and Elizabeth Grant, researchers who have looked deep into the colonial history of these "prison trees," have pointed out that there’s actually no contemporary evidence from the 1880s or 90s that this specific tree was used as a regular cell. The story actually seems to have gained traction in the 1940s. Before that, it was just a big tree.
Does that mean it never happened? Not necessarily. But it does mean that the Prison Boab Tree Derby is as much a monument to how we tell stories as it is to actual history. The Kimberley was a brutal place during the pastoral expansion. Aboriginal people were indeed chained and marched across this landscape. Whether they spent a night inside this specific Adansonia gregorii or just rested under its shade doesn't change the reality of the frontier's violence.
It's a heavy place to stand.
Why the Boab is a Biological Freak of Nature
Boabs are weird. They aren't like oaks or pines. They are actually related to hibiscus and cacao. Some people call them "upside-down trees" because their bare branches look like roots sticking up into the sky.
The Prison Boab Tree Derby is estimated to be around 1,500 years old. Think about that. This tree was a sapling when the Fall of Rome was still fresh news. It has survived cyclones, droughts, and the arrival of Europeans. These trees are basically giant water tanks. During the wet season, they soak up thousands of liters of water, swelling their trunks. Then, in the dry season, they slowly use that reserve, often hollowing out as they age.
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This hollowing is what made the "prison" legend possible. A large boab can naturally develop a cavity big enough to hold several grown men.
Tourism and the Ethics of the Site
Today, the tree is a major stop on the Gibb River Road circuit. If you’re heading out to the horizontal falls or trekking through the King Leopold Ranges, you’re likely stopping here. But the vibe has shifted lately.
The Shire of Derby-West Kimberley and the local Nyikina Mangala people have worked to ensure the site is respected. You can't just climb in it anymore. There's a walkway. There are interpretive signs. These signs try to balance the "tourist myth" with the sober reality of the region's history.
Honestly, visiting the Prison Boab Tree Derby can be a bit of a letdown if you’re expecting a museum. It’s a tree in a paddock near the highway. But if you sit there for a minute and look at the size of it, the scale is humbling.
- Distance from Derby: 7km
- Best time to visit: Late afternoon for the light, or early morning to avoid the heat.
- Cost: Free, but respect the fencing.
Some locals will tell you the real history is in the boabs found further out in the bush, ones with "blaze" marks from early explorers like Alexander Forrest. Those trees aren't on the tourist maps. They are hidden.
What You Actually Need to Know Before Going
If you’re planning a trip to see the Prison Boab Tree Derby, don't just jump out of the car, snap a selfie, and leave. You’ve got to look at the nearby Myalls Bore. It’s an artesian bore that’s over 120 meters long—one of the longest cattle troughs in the southern hemisphere. It paints a much clearer picture of what Derby was: a hard-knock cattle town where water was more valuable than gold.
The ground around the tree is dusty. In the "Build Up" (October/November), the humidity will melt you. The best time to visit is between May and August. The air is crisp, the sky is a blue you won't see anywhere else, and the boab leaves are green and lush.
The "Hidden" Details of the Derby Boab
One thing people often miss is the sheer density of the wood. Or rather, the lack of it. Boab wood is pulpy and fibrous. If you cut into it, it doesn't look like timber; it looks like compressed wet paper. This is why they don't make good furniture, but they make excellent landmarks.
There's also the "Derby Dinner" phenomenon. In the early days, some explorers actually ate the pith of the fruit. It tastes like a chalky, citrus-flavored sherbet. It's packed with Vitamin C. The Indigenous people used the leaves for medicine and the nuts for carving. The Prison Boab Tree Derby is a living grocery store and pharmacy that we’ve rebranded as a jail.
Getting the Most Out of Your Visit
Don't just look at the hole in the trunk. Look at the scars on the bark. Some are from cattle, some are from humans, and some are from the tree simply expanding and contracting over a millennium.
To truly understand the Prison Boab Tree Derby, you have to acknowledge the tension. It is a place of incredible natural beauty and a symbol of a very dark period in Australian history. It’s okay for a place to be both.
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Actionable Steps for Your Kimberley Road Trip
To see the tree and the surrounding area properly, follow these steps:
- Check the Road Conditions: If you are coming off the Gibb River Road, use the Main Roads WA website. The road to the tree is sealed, but everything around it can turn to soup after a storm.
- Visit the Mowanjum Aboriginal Art & Cultural Centre: Located just down the road. This is where you get the real context of the land from the people who have lived there for 60,000 years. It’s better than any plaque.
- Time Your Photos: The sun sets behind the tree if you stand near the road, creating a massive silhouette. Use a wide-angle lens. You’ll need it to fit the whole trunk in the frame.
- Stay in Derby: Don't just day-trip. Spend a night. Go to the Derby Jetty at sunset and watch the massive tides—the biggest in the Southern Hemisphere—race in. It's terrifying and beautiful.
- Pack Water: It sounds obvious. It isn't. The heat at the boab site is reflective. The ground radiates it back at you.
Standing under the Prison Boab Tree Derby reminds you that humans are a blip. The tree was there before the "Prison" stories, and if we treat it right, it will be there long after the highway has crumbled. Respect the fence, read the signs, and take a moment to realize you're standing in front of one of the oldest living things on the planet.