You’re standing on the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo. The elevator doors slide open, and for a second, you’re just staring at the skyline of Nihonbashi. It’s gorgeous. But you aren’t here for the view, not really. You’re here because you managed—Lord knows how—to snag one of the eight seats at The Pizza Bar on 38th. It’s basically a marble counter. That’s it. No private booths, no sprawling dining room, just a small, intimate stage where pizza is treated with the kind of reverence usually reserved for high-end sushi.
Honestly, it’s a bit weird. You’re in a five-star hotel, surrounded by marble and gold, and you’re waiting for a slice of dough. But it isn't just dough. This is the brainchild of Executive Chef Daniele Cason, and he’s turned the concept of "pizza" into a multi-course omakase experience that has critics losing their minds. It's consistently ranked as one of the best pizzerias in Asia—and the world.
What actually makes the dough so different?
People talk about "light and airy" crusts all the time. It’s a cliché. But here, the science is actually kinda wild. The dough is made from organic Italian flour, but the hydration level is pushed to a staggering 80 percent. To put that in perspective, your average local pizza joint is probably rocking something closer to 60 or 65 percent. Cason lets this high-hydration dough ferment for a full 48 hours.
The result? It’s basically a cloud. When it hits the brick oven, the crust bubbles up into these charred, leopard-spotted pockets that are crisp on the outside and almost structurally impossible on the inside. It’s so light that you can eat an entire tasting menu and not feel like you need a three-hour nap afterward. Most people expect to feel heavy after pizza. Not here.
The Omakase flow
Unlike a standard pizzeria where you order a pie and call it a day, The Pizza Bar on 38th functions on an omakase—or "chef’s choice"—model. You sit down, and the pizzaiolo starts a parade of seasonal slices. You might start with something seemingly simple, like a Marinara that uses tomatoes so sweet they taste like fruit. Then, things get adventurous.
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Maybe there’s a slice topped with Hokkaido sea urchin. Or perhaps the "Pizzino," which is a signature move: two thin layers of focaccia-style dough stuffed with mascarpone and black truffle oil. It’s rich. It’s decadent. It’s also gone in three bites. The chef moves with a precision that’s almost hypnotic to watch. He’s right there. You see the flour fly. You smell the wood smoke. It’s theater, but without the pretension.
Why the "World's Best" title isn't just hype
In 2023 and 2024, 50 Top Pizza—the definitive guide based in Italy—named The Pizza Bar on 38th the number one pizzeria in all of Asia. They’ve also sat comfortably in the top five globally. That’s a huge deal. Think about it: an Italian-led team in the heart of Tokyo beating out legendary spots in Naples and New York.
It works because of the Japanese obsession with shokunin—the craft. While the soul of the pizza is Italian, the execution is purely Japanese. The sourcing of ingredients is relentless. If the tomatoes aren't at peak acidity, they aren't used. If the mozzarella doesn't pull exactly right, it's out. This obsessive consistency is why the spot stays at the top of the rankings. You aren't just paying for the food; you're paying for the fact that they haven't had an "off night" in years.
The seating struggle is real
If you think you can just wander into the Mandarin Oriental and grab a stool, think again. With only eight seats, the math is brutal. It’s one of the most difficult reservations in Tokyo, rivaling some of the city’s three-Michelin-starred dens.
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- Booking window: Reservations usually open weeks in advance.
- Timing: They do several "rounds" or seatings per day. If you're five minutes late, you're cutting into your own time.
- Strategy: Most regulars know to check the online booking portal at the stroke of midnight JST.
I’ve seen people plan entire trips to Japan around a confirmed lunch slot here. It sounds crazy until you’re sitting there and the chef hands you a slice of the "Bufala" with fresh basil that was probably picked that morning.
Beyond the Margherita: Seasonal weirdness that works
The menu shifts with the Japanese micro-seasons. In the spring, you might find ramp or wild leeks. In the winter, heartier toppings take center stage. They do this one pizza with Gorgonzola, walnuts, and honey that sounds like a dessert but hits every savory note in your brain.
One thing that surprises people is the focus on "Pizzino." It’s a sandwich, sorta. But calling it a sandwich feels like an insult. The dough is crispier, almost like a cracker, but it yields to a creamy center. It’s the dish that everyone posts on Instagram, but the taste actually lives up to the photo. It’s salty, earthy, and creamy all at once.
The atmosphere is surprisingly chill
Despite the prestige, it’s not a quiet, library-like dining room. The 38th-floor vibe is lively. Because you’re sitting at a bar, you end up talking to the people next to you. You’re all in this exclusive little club for 90 minutes. The chefs are chatty, too. They’ll explain the origin of the flour or why they chose a specific olive oil. It’s an educational experience if you want it to be, or just a really high-end lunch if you don't.
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Getting the most out of your visit
If you actually manage to get a seat at The Pizza Bar on 38th, don't waste the opportunity. Here is how to actually handle it like a pro.
First, go for the omakase menu rather than ordering a la carte. You want the full range. You want to see the progression from light to heavy, from traditional to avant-garde. It’s the only way to see what the kitchen is truly capable of.
Second, pay attention to the crust. Look at the "cornicione"—the outer rim. It’s hollow. If you press it, it should spring back like a sponge. That’s the 80% hydration at work. Most people leave the crusts on regular pizza. Here, the crust is arguably the best part.
Third, don't ignore the wine list. The Mandarin Oriental has an incredible cellar, and the sommelier can suggest Italian whites that cut through the richness of the cheese in ways you wouldn't expect. A crisp Greco di Tufo with a spicy salami pizza? Perfection.
Practical steps for the hungry traveler
- Set an alarm. Check the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo website for the exact date reservations open for your travel month.
- Consider lunch. Dinner is the "prime" time, but the lunch omakase is virtually identical in quality and sometimes slightly easier to book.
- Check for cancellations. Use apps like TableCheck or call the concierge if you’re staying at the hotel. Hotel guests occasionally get a tiny bit of leverage, though it's never a guarantee.
- Dress the part. It’s "smart casual," but remember you’re in a high-end Tokyo hotel. Leave the flip-flops at home, even if it is "just pizza."
- Budget accordingly. This isn't a $15 pie. Expect to spend $100-$150 per person depending on drinks and the specific menu.
The reality is that The Pizza Bar on 38th isn't trying to be your neighborhood slice shop. It’s a laboratory. It’s a showcase of what happens when Italian tradition is filtered through the lens of Japanese perfectionism. Even if you aren't a "pizza person," the technical mastery on display is worth the effort of the reservation. You'll leave the 38th floor looking at every other pizza you eat for the rest of the year with a slight sense of disappointment. That’s the price of entry.