Let’s be real. Buying a one piece cut out bathing suit is usually an emotional decision made in a dimly lit fitting room or after seeing a specific Instagram influencer lounging on a yacht in Amalfi. It looks incredible in the photo. The geometry is striking. The tan lines? Well, we don’t think about the tan lines until it’s too late.
The reality of these suits is a bit more complicated than a standard bikini. You’re dealing with physics, skin elasticity, and the very real possibility of looking like a holiday ham if the elastic hits at the wrong meridian. But honestly, when they work, they really work. They offer a level of architectural drama that a boring triangle top just can’t touch.
The Architecture of the Cut Out
We’ve seen the evolution of this trend over decades. It’s not new. If you look back at the 1970s, designers like Rudi Gernreich were already pushing the boundaries of what a "one piece" actually meant. Fast forward to the 2020s, and brands like Monot or Agent Provocateur have turned the one piece cut out bathing suit into something that looks more like evening wear than swimwear.
There’s a specific science to where the holes go. Most people think cut outs are just random slashes, but they aren’t. High-end designers focus on the "negative space." If a cut out is placed right at the narrowest part of your waist, it creates an optical illusion of an hourglass figure, even if you’re feeling a bit bloated from fish tacos. If it’s too low, it digs into the hip bone. If it’s too high, it creates "side-boob" issues that require more fashion tape than anyone should reasonably have to carry to the beach.
The fabric matters more here than in any other garment. Cheap nylon will lose its memory the second it gets wet. Once that happens, those sharp, chic geometric shapes start to sag. You want a high percentage of Xtra Life Lycra or similar elastane blends. This keeps the tension consistent so the suit actually stays put while you're moving.
Why Everyone Is Obsessed With "The Monokini" Labels
People use the term "monokini" and one piece cut out bathing suit interchangeably, but they aren't technically the same thing. A true monokini—originally—was just a bottom with no top (thanks, 1964 fashion scandals). Today, we use it to describe suits where the top and bottom are connected by a thin strip of fabric, usually down the belly.
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But modern style has moved past the simple "strip down the middle." We’re seeing:
- Side-waist crescents that mimic the look of a high-cut 80s leg.
- "Keyhole" openings right under the sternum.
- Asymmetrical shoulder-to-hip slashes that make you look like a Bond villain’s girlfriend.
The problem? Sunscreen. Honestly, applying SPF around these things is a nightmare. You’ll miss a spot under a strap, and by 4 PM, you have a bright red triangle on your ribs that won't go away for a week. Dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss often point out that we forget these "hidden" patches of skin have rarely seen the sun, making them way more prone to burning than your shoulders.
Choosing the Right Cut for Your Body Type (The Honest Version)
Forget the "apple vs. pear" nonsense for a second. Let's talk about torso length. This is the single biggest factor in whether a one piece cut out bathing suit looks like a million bucks or a total disaster.
If you have a long torso, most standard cut-out suits will "ride up." The cut outs that are supposed to sit at your waist will end up somewhere near your lower ribs. It’s uncomfortable. It’s unflattering. Brands like Summersalt or Andie Swim have started offering "Long Torso" versions, but they rarely do them for the super-edgy cut-out styles. If you're tall, look for adjustable ties.
For those with shorter torsos, you actually have an advantage here. You can use vertical cut outs to elongate your frame. A deep V-neck that connects to a high-waisted bottom section via a narrow center lace can make you look five inches taller.
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Then there’s the "pinch" factor. We all have skin. Skin moves. When you sit down in a suit with tight elastic cut outs, that skin is going to pop out. That’s not a "flaw" in your body; it’s just physics. To avoid the "squeezed" look, you have to size up. Almost always. If you’re between a Small and a Medium, go Medium. The extra half-inch of fabric prevents the elastic from digging in and creating those "rolls" that aren't actually there when you’re naked.
The Versatility Factor: It’s Actually a Bodysuit
One reason these suits have stayed popular for so long is that they double as "going out" tops. You can throw a pair of high-waisted linen trousers or a silk midi skirt over a one piece cut out bathing suit, and suddenly you’re ready for dinner at a beach club.
I’ve seen people pair a black, multi-strap cut-out suit with a blazer for a night out. It works because the "swim" material—if it’s matte—looks just like high-end spandex or jersey. You’re basically getting two outfits for the price of one. Just make sure the hardware (rings, sliders, zippers) isn't too "beachy" if you plan on wearing it away from the water. Gold hardware looks expensive; plastic neon rings look like a pool toy.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Don't buy a suit with "invisible" mesh panels unless you've tried it on in person. Cheap mesh is itchy. It scratches. It also tends to turn yellow after three dips in a chlorinated pool.
Another big one: the "back view." We spend so much time looking in the mirror at the front of the one piece cut out bathing suit that we forget the back might just be a messy tangle of strings. If you can’t reach the ties yourself, you’re going to need a "suit assistant" every time you go to the bathroom. Not ideal.
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- Check the "Leap Test": Put the suit on. Jump. If everything stays in place, you’re golden. If you have to readjust your chest immediately, it’s not for swimming. It’s for "towel sitting."
- The Lining Reality: Look for double-lined fabric. Cut outs weaken the structural integrity of the suit. Without a solid lining, the edges of the cut outs will roll outward, showing the white interior seams. It looks tacky.
- Salt vs. Chlorine: If you’re a pool person, chlorine will eat the elastic in your cut outs faster than salt water. Rinse your suit in cold, fresh water the second you get out. Never wring it. Lay it flat. If you hang it by the straps, the weight of the water will stretch the cut outs into weird, distorted shapes.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Trend
The biggest misconception is that you have to be "fit" to wear a one piece cut out bathing suit. That’s total garbage. The whole point of a cut out is to draw the eye to specific areas. If you love your shoulders, find a cold-shoulder cut out. If you love your back, find a suit that is entirely open in the rear with a tiny side-waist snip.
It’s about intentionality. A standard bikini is "all or nothing." A cut out is a curated reveal. It's actually much more sophisticated.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
Stop looking at the model and start looking at the seams. If you're shopping online, zoom in on the edges of the cut outs. Are they "raw" or "finished"?
- Finished edges (with a folded-over seam) will last 3-4 seasons.
- Raw edges (laser cut) look cool but will start to fray or curl after the fifth time you get it wet.
If you’re worried about the tan line situation, wear the suit for the first two hours of your beach day, then swap to a basic bikini. Or, better yet, use a spray tan before you go. It fills in the "gaps" and makes the contrast between the skin and the suit look more intentional.
Ultimately, the one piece cut out bathing suit isn't just a trend; it's a staple for anyone who wants their swimwear to feel like fashion. It requires a bit more maintenance and a lot more sunscreen, but the visual payoff is worth the extra effort. Choose the fabric for its "snap back" quality, size up to avoid the pinch, and always, always check the back view before you head to the boardwalk.
Invest in a quality piece from a brand that understands tension—think Jade Swim or Hunza G (though their crinkle fabric is a different beast entirely)—and you'll find that these suits can actually be comfortable. Just don't forget to SPF the "holes." Your future self will thank you.
To keep your suit in top shape, never put it in a dryer. The heat destroys the delicate elastic fibers that hold the cut-out shapes together. Instead, roll the wet suit in a dry towel to absorb excess moisture, then lay it flat in the shade. Direct sunlight will fade the pigment and weaken the "stretch memory" of the garment. Stick to these rules, and your favorite suit will survive more than just one summer.