You’re probably looking at your smartphone right now and wondering why on earth anyone would carry a separate camera. It’s a fair question. Phone sensors have gotten scary good. But then you see a photo with that creamy, natural background blur or a shot of a bird that isn't just a pixelated smudge, and you realize the hardware gap hasn't actually closed. That’s where the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV comes in. It is tiny. Seriously, it's about the size of a thick sandwich.
I’ve spent years hauling around full-frame monsters that make my neck ache by noon. Switching to this Micro Four Thirds (MFT) setup feels like a vacation. It’s not just about the weight, though. It’s about the fact that this specific camera, despite being a few years old now, manages to hit a sweet spot of usability and image quality that most entry-level mirrorless cameras miss.
Most people get hung up on the "small sensor" debate. They hear Micro Four Thirds and think it can't handle low light. Honestly? Unless you’re shooting a black cat in a coal cellar at midnight, you’re going to be fine. The 20-megapixel sensor in the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV is a significant jump over the older 16-megapixel versions found in the Mark II and III. It's punchy.
Why the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV Feels Different
There is a tactile joy here. Most modern cameras look like melted bars of soap or aggressive military equipment. This one looks like something your grandfather would have used to document a trip to the Alps, but it’s packed with 5-axis in-body image stabilization (IBIS). That stabilization is basically magic. You can hold the shutter open for half a second while standing still, and the photo will still be sharp. Try doing that with a cheap DSLR. You'll get a blurry mess.
The flip-down screen is a bit of a polarizing choice. If you’re a vlogger, you might love it because it stays out of the way of the hot shoe where you’d put a microphone. But if you’re using a tripod, the screen flips right into the tripod head. It’s a weird design quirk. You’ve got to work around it. But for quick selfies or checking your framing while walking, it works.
The Sensor and That "Olympus Color"
Photography nerds talk about "color science" a lot. It sounds like pretentious nonsense until you actually see it. Olympus (now OM System) has this way of rendering blues and greens that just feels right. Skin tones look healthy, not plastic. The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV inherits this legacy.
Because the sensor is smaller than a full-frame or APS-C sensor, the lenses are also tiny. You can fit three lenses in a jacket pocket. Let that sink in. A 45mm f/1.8 lens—which is an incredible portrait lens—is about the size of a large marshmallow.
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The autofocus is "contrast-detect" only. In plain English: it’s fast for stationary subjects but can struggle if you’re trying to track a hyperactive dog running toward you. If your main goal is sports or fast-action wildlife, this isn't your camera. Go buy a Sony A6400 or a Canon R10. But for street photography, travel, and family shots? It’s plenty fast.
The Reality of Low Light and Noise
Let's be real. If you crank the ISO up to 6400, you’re going to see grain. It’s a physical reality of the MFT sensor size. However, the IBIS I mentioned earlier compensates for this. Since you can use slower shutter speeds without blur, you don't have to raise the ISO as often as you would on other cameras.
I’ve shot late-night street scenes in Tokyo and dim restaurants in Paris with this thing. The images have character. They don't look like clinical, over-processed smartphone AI photos. They look like photographs.
One thing people often overlook is the internal processing. Olympus includes these "Art Filters." Some are tacky, sure. But the "Grainy Film" and "Soft Focus" ones are actually quite usable if you want to skip the editing process and post straight to social media. The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connection to the OI.Share app is actually reliable, which is a miracle in the camera world where most apps are buggy garbage.
What Nobody Tells You About the Build Quality
It’s plastic. Mostly.
The previous Mark II model was a magnesium alloy tank. The Mark IV uses more high-quality plastics to keep the weight down. It doesn't feel "cheap," but it doesn't feel like a professional tool that can survive a fall down a mountain. It’s a consumer-grade device. Treat it with a little respect.
The dials, though? They are excellent. They have a nice click to them. You get two dedicated dials for aperture and shutter speed, which is a luxury on an entry-level camera. Most competitors make you menu-dive or hold down a button while spinning a wheel. On the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV, you just turn the dial. It makes learning manual photography much more intuitive.
The Lens Ecosystem is the Real Winner
When you buy this camera, you aren't just buying a body. You’re entering the Micro Four Thirds world. This is a shared mount between Olympus and Panasonic (and Sigma, and Voigtländer). There are dozens and dozens of lenses available.
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- The Panasonic 25mm f/1.7: Cheap, sharp, and great for low light.
- The Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro: If you want one lens to do everything, this is it, though it’s a bit heavy for this specific body.
- The 14-42mm EZ Kit Lens: This is the "pancake" lens that often comes with the camera. It’s okay. It’s not great, but it makes the camera small enough to fit in a coat pocket.
If you really want to see what the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV can do, ditch the kit lens as soon as you can. Get a prime lens (a lens that doesn't zoom). It forces you to move your feet and think about your composition.
Comparing the Competition
Back in 2020, this was an easy recommendation. Now? It’s tougher.
The Sony ZV-E10 is better for video. The Fujifilm X-T30 II has a larger sensor and those famous film simulations. But the Olympus still wins on size and stabilization. Fujifilm lenses are significantly larger and more expensive. Sony’s menu systems can feel like trying to program a VCR from 1988.
The Olympus menu is also a bit of a mess, truth be told. It’s a "vertical list" style that requires some digging. But once you set up your "Super Control Panel" (a quick-access menu on the back screen), you rarely have to go back into the deep settings.
Battery Life and Charging
You can charge it via USB. Finally.
Older Olympus models required a separate wall charger. The Mark IV lets you plug in a power bank or a phone charger. This is a game-changer for travel. The battery life is rated for about 360 shots. In the real world, if you aren't chimping (looking at the screen after every single shot), you can squeeze out 500. It’s decent, but buy a spare battery anyway. They’re small.
Is it a "Pro" Camera?
No. And it doesn't try to be.
If you’re shooting a wedding, you want dual card slots (the Mark IV only has one) and weather sealing (the Mark IV has none). If it starts pouring rain, put this camera in your bag. If you need 4K video at 60 frames per second, look elsewhere. This does 4K at 30fps, and it looks good, but it's not a cinema rig.
It’s a "life" camera. It’s for the person who wants better photos than a phone can provide but doesn't want to carry a "camera bag." It’s for the hiker who cares about every ounce. It’s for the parent who wants to capture their kids playing without looking like a paparazzo.
Making the Most of Your Mark IV: Actionable Steps
If you’ve decided to pick one up, or you already have one sitting in a drawer, here is how you actually get those "pro" shots people talk about.
1. Turn on the Super Control Panel. By default, the camera might not show you all your settings on one screen. Go into the gears menu and enable the SCP. It lets you change ISO, white balance, and focus modes with one or two taps.
2. Use the "M.Zuiko" 17mm or 25mm Primes. The kit lens is fine for outdoors in the sun, but it’s "slow" (meaning the aperture doesn't open very wide). A f/1.8 prime lens will transform your photography. You'll get that blurry background and much better performance indoors.
3. Experiment with Live ND and Live Composite. This is a "hidden" feature Olympus is famous for. Live Composite lets you take long exposures (like light trails or fireworks) and watch the image build on the screen in real-time. The camera only adds new light sources without overexposing the rest of the image. It’s incredibly fun and easy.
4. Set the "AEL/AFL" button for Back Button Focus. This is a pro trick. It separates the focusing action from the shutter button. It takes a day to get used to, but it will drastically improve your hit rate for sharp photos.
5. Don't fear the ISO. Modern noise reduction software like DXO PureRaw or Adobe’s AI Denoise can make an ISO 6400 shot from this camera look like it was shot at ISO 800. If you need the shutter speed, crank the ISO. You can fix the grain later.
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV remains one of the most charming cameras on the market. It’s not perfect. The autofocus could be better, and the build could be sturdier. But in a world where everything is becoming a giant, high-spec computer, there is something deeply satisfying about a small, handsome camera that just wants to help you take a great picture.
Go out and shoot. Stop worrying about the sensor size and start worrying about the light. This camera has more than enough power to capture anything you throw at it, provided you're willing to learn its quirks.
Next Steps for Owners
- Check your firmware: Ensure you are running the latest version via the OM Workspace software to get the best stabilization performance.
- Invest in a wrist strap: Because the camera is so light, a bulky neck strap is overkill; a simple leather wrist strap makes it feel even more portable.
- Map the Fn buttons: Assign one to "Magnify" so you can easily check focus when using manual lenses or shooting close-ups.