You’re standing at the corner of Princes Street and South St David Street. The wind is biting—because it’s Edinburgh, and the wind is always biting—but you look up and see that grand, sandstone facade. It’s a landmark. Honestly, the Old Waverley Hotel Princes Street Edinburgh is one of those places that people walk past a thousand times without actually realizing what’s inside. It’s been there since 1848. Think about that for a second. When this place opened, the Scott Monument across the street was practically brand new.
Most people book the big, flashy chains. They want the glass elevators and the robot room service. But they're missing out.
The Old Waverley isn’t trying to be a sleek, modern boutique. It’s old-school. It has creaky floorboards and windows that have seen over 175 years of Scottish history. If you want a "sanitized" experience, go somewhere else. But if you want to wake up, pull back the heavy curtains, and see Edinburgh Castle staring you in the face? Well, you’ve come to the right spot.
The Reality of Staying at the Old Waverley Hotel Princes Street Edinburgh
Let's get real about the location. You are basically at the nerve center of the city. The hotel sits directly opposite the Scott Monument and the Waverley Railway Station. If you arrive by train, you’re looking at a three-minute walk. Maybe four if you're carrying a heavy suitcase.
It’s loud. Princes Street is the main artery of Edinburgh’s shopping district. Trams clatter past every few minutes. Buskers are playing "Flower of Scotland" on the bagpipes downstairs from 9:00 AM until sunset. If you’re a light sleeper, you might find it annoying. But that’s the trade-off for being in the middle of everything. You aren't just visiting Edinburgh; you’re vibrating with it.
The building itself is a Category B listed structure. That means the owners can't just rip everything out and make it look like a Marriott. This is a blessing and a curse. You get high ceilings and ornate cornicing. You also get some quirky layouts. Some rooms are massive; others feel like a cozy attic. It’s part of the charm, honestly.
Why the "Old" in Old Waverley Actually Matters
Back in the Victorian era, this was a "Temperance Hotel." That’s a fancy way of saying they didn't serve alcohol. The Cranston family, who ran it, were big on the whole sobriety movement. Don't worry, though—that's long gone. You can grab a whiskey at the bar now. But that history of being a sober refuge for travelers gives it a different vibe than the rowdy pubs further down the street. It feels dignified.
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The hotel was designed by architect John Lessels. He was a big deal in 19th-century Edinburgh. He didn't just build a hotel; he built a statement. Even today, the ironwork on the balconies and the way the building frames the view of the Balmoral clock tower is intentional. It’s architectural theater.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Rooms
You’ll read reviews online from people complaining about the elevators. Yeah, they're small. They're old. Sometimes they’re a bit slow. If you’re in a massive rush to get to your 8:00 AM tour, leave five minutes early.
The real secret? Ask for a front-facing room.
If you end up at the back of the building, you’re looking at some brick walls and service alleys. It’s fine for sleeping, but you’re losing the magic. The rooms facing Princes Street are why you book the Old Waverley Hotel Princes Street Edinburgh. There is nothing quite like watching the fog roll off the Firth of Forth and settle into the valley of Princes Street Gardens while the Castle is illuminated by floodlights.
- The View: Unmatched. You see the Gardens, the Castle, and the National Gallery.
- The Vibe: Victorian-meets-modern-comfort.
- The Breakfast: It's a traditional Scottish spread. Get the black pudding. Just trust me on that one.
Navigating the Logistics: Parking and Transport
Don't bring a car. Just don't. Princes Street is mostly closed to private vehicles, and parking in the city center is a nightmare that costs more than a decent dinner.
If you must drive, you’ll likely have to park at the Q-Park at OMNI or Greenside. It’s a trek. Instead, use the trams. They run from the airport directly to the stop nearly outside the hotel door. It’s efficient. It’s cheap. It makes sense.
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For those heading out to explore the Highlands or the coast, being next to Waverley Station is a godsend. You can decide at 9:00 AM that you want to see North Berwick, and by 10:00 AM, you’re walking on the beach. That kind of spontaneity is hard to find when you're staying in the suburbs.
Eating and Drinking Near the Hotel
While the hotel has its own dining, you are surrounded by some of the best—and worst—food in the city. Avoid the tourist traps with the "See-Through" sandwiches.
Walk five minutes over to Rose Street. It’s the pedestrianized lane behind Princes Street. You’ll find pubs like The Abbotsford, which has incredible original decor and a great selection of ales. If you want something more upscale, The Dome on George Street is famous for its massive columns and even more massive Christmas decorations.
Actually, if you’re at the Old Waverley during August for the Festival, you are in the "Splash Zone." Everything is happening around you. The Royal Mile is a ten-minute walk up the Mound. The Book Festival is usually nearby. You can pop back to your room to drop off shopping bags or take a nap between shows, which is a luxury most Fringe-goers don't have.
The Interior Aesthetic: A Warning and a Recommendation
If you like "Greige"—that bland mixture of grey and beige that every modern hotel uses—you might find the Old Waverley a bit much. It uses color. It has patterns. It feels like a Scottish grandmother’s guest room, but if that grandmother had a very large budget and a prime piece of real estate.
The lounge is the highlight. It’s got these massive windows. Even if you aren't staying there, you can sometimes grab a tea and just stare out at the city. It’s one of the best "people-watching" spots in Scotland. You see the tourists struggling with maps, the locals rushing to work, and the occasional piper entertaining the crowds.
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Is It Worth the Price?
Price is subjective, right?
During the Edinburgh Festival or Hogmanay (New Year's Eve), prices everywhere in the city skyrocket. The Old Waverley is no exception. However, compared to The Balmoral or the Waldorf Astoria (The Caledonian) at either end of the street, the Old Waverley is usually much more accessible. You get about 80% of the view for about 40% of the price.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Floor Plan: When booking, specifically look for "Castle View" in the room description. If it doesn't say it, you probably won't have it.
- Join the Rewards: If you’re staying at any of the Leonardo or sister properties often, check if they have a loyalty program active for the Waverley. It can save you a few quid.
- Pack Earplugs: I mentioned the noise. If you have a front-facing room, the "City That Never Sleeps" vibe is real.
- Explore the Backstairs: The building has some fascinating architectural quirks. Take the stairs at least once to see the old masonry.
- Use the Concierge: The staff here have seen it all. They know which tour companies are actually good and which ones just drive you around in a bus for eight hours with no bathroom breaks.
The Old Waverley Hotel Princes Street Edinburgh isn't just a place to sleep. It’s a piece of the city’s fabric. It’s been standing there while kings and queens passed by, while the city expanded, and while the world changed. Staying there makes you part of that timeline.
Don't expect perfection. Expect character. Expect a few stairs. Expect the best view you'll ever have while brushing your teeth. That's the real Edinburgh experience.
To make the most of your stay, book your room at least four months in advance if you're visiting in August. Use the tram from Edinburgh Airport for the most direct route, and always carry a lightweight waterproof jacket, even if the sun is shining when you check in. Experience the city on foot from this central point—you won't need a taxi for anything in the Old Town or New Town.