Hollywood Boulevard is, let’s be honest, mostly a mess. It’s a sensory overload of neon, superhero impersonators in dusty costumes, and tourists tripping over stars on the sidewalk. But then you see it. That massive, iconic neon sign. You pull open the heavy doors of The Musso and Frank Grill, and the screaming chaos of 2026 just... evaporates.
The air changes first. It smells like mesquite charcoal and decades of expensive cigars. It’s quiet, too. No thumping bass, no "concept" lighting. Just red leather booths, dark mahogany, and the kind of lighting that makes everyone look like they’re about to greenlight a motion picture.
I’ve been coming here for years, and every time I sit down, I think about how this place shouldn’t exist. In a city like Los Angeles, where "old" usually means anything built before the 1994 earthquake, Musso’s is a freak of nature. It opened in 1919. It has outlived the silent film era, the Golden Age, the decline of the studios, and the rise of streaming.
The Legend of the Unchanged Menu
If you go to a trendy spot in West Hollywood right now, the menu will probably be a QR code leading to a list of "deconstructed" small plates. At The Musso and Frank Grill, the menu is a physical object. It’s a large, cream-colored card that looks roughly the same as it did when F. Scott Fitzgerald was propping up the bar.
People always ask me what to get. Honestly? You get the steak. Specifically, the Filet Mignon. They cook it over a mesquite grill that hasn’t been turned off since the 1930s (or so the lore goes). That grill is seasoned with a century of fat and flame. You can taste the history.
But if you want to eat like the ghosts of the past, you look for the weird stuff.
- Charlie Chaplin’s Grilled Lamb Kidneys: Yes, they are still on the menu. Chaplin used to sit in Booth 1—the only one with a window—so he could keep an eye on his horse tied up outside. He ate these kidneys religiously.
- The Flannel Cakes: These are basically a cross between a crepe and a pancake. They’ve been served since the 1920s. Legend has it they’re called flannel cakes because they’re as soft as a favorite shirt.
- Welsh Rarebit: It’s a classic savory cheese sauce over toast. It’s the kind of thing nobody makes anymore because it’s "outdated," but at Musso’s, it’s a bestseller.
The prices aren’t 1919 prices, obviously. A Filet will set you back about $58 to $66 depending on the size, and the Prime Rib is north of $70. It’s an investment. But you aren't just paying for the meat; you're paying for the fact that the waiter serving you probably has a mortgage and a pension and has worked there since the Reagan administration.
That Martini (And Why Bond Was Wrong)
You cannot talk about The Musso and Frank Grill without talking about the Martini. It is widely considered one of the best in the world.
There is a very specific ritual here. They don't shake it. As beverage director Andrea Scuto often points out, shaking incorporates too much ice and dilutes the spirit. They stir it exactly twelve times.
Then comes the "sidecar." When you order a Martini at Musso’s, you don’t just get a glass. You get a petite 2.5-ounce glass and a tiny glass carafe (the sidecar) nestled in a bowl of crushed ice. This keeps the second half of your drink "mountain stream cold" while you sip the first half.
It’s a small detail, but it’s why the bar is always three people deep. You’ll see a kid in a Supreme hoodie sitting next to a guy in a tailored tuxedo. They’re both drinking the same thing. They’re both part of the lineage.
The Booths Where It Happened
Musso’s is divided into the "Old Room" and the "New Room." The "New Room" was added in 1955. In any other city, a 70-year-old room wouldn't be called new, but here, it’s the baby of the house.
The booths are the real currency.
- Booth 1: The Chaplin Booth. High demand. Good for people-watching.
- Booth 3: Marilyn Monroe’s favorite. She liked the privacy.
- Booth 224: This was Frank Sinatra’s spot. It has high walls, making it nearly impossible for anyone to see who’s inside unless they’re standing directly over the table.
I once sat near the back and watched a well-known director spend three hours nursing a single coffee and a plate of French bread. Nobody bothered him. The staff at Musso’s are famous for their "celebrities are locals" policy. They don't ask for selfies. They don't leak who was there.
That’s why people like Keith Richards and Johnny Depp keep coming back. It’s one of the few places in Hollywood where the "No Photos" policy is actually enforced with a polite but firm glare from a man in a red jacket.
The Secret to Staying Alive for 107 Years
How has it survived? Most restaurants in LA close within three years. Musso’s is currently owned by the fourth generation of the Mosso family. Mark Echeverria, the COO and great-grandson of John Mosso, runs the place with a "if it ain't broke, don't even look at it" philosophy.
They still pay for 100% of their employees' healthcare. That is unheard of in the modern restaurant industry. Because of that, the staff stays forever. When Sergio Gonzalez, a waiter who had been there for 47 years, passed away a few years ago, it was local news.
The wallpaper is the same. The coat hooks on the ends of the booths are the same. Even the "private" phone booth (the first one in Hollywood) is still there, though people use it more for Instagram shots than actual calls these days.
There was a rough patch in the 80s and 90s. Hollywood Boulevard got gritty. The studios moved to Burbank. But Musso’s just... waited. They knew that eventually, people would get tired of the "new" and crave something that felt permanent.
How to Do Musso’s Right
If you’re planning to go, don’t just walk in on a Friday night and expect a table. It won't happen.
- Book ahead: Use OpenTable or call. If you want a specific booth, you have to ask, but there are no guarantees.
- Dress the part: You don’t need a suit, but don't show up in gym shorts. Put on a collar. Respect the room.
- The Bar Hack: If you can’t get a reservation, show up at 5:00 PM when they open. Grab a seat at the bar. You can eat the full menu there, and the bartenders—like Manny, who has been there for decades—are the best storytellers in the building.
- Order the Bread: They serve a sourdough that is legendary. It’s tangy, crusty, and they bring it out with cold pats of butter. Don't skip it.
It’s easy to be cynical about Hollywood. It’s a city built on make-believe and temporary sets. But The Musso and Frank Grill is real. It’s the anchor. When you’re sitting there, sipping a martini and watching the red-jacketed waiters glide across the floor, you realize that the "Old Hollywood" everyone is looking for isn't in a museum. It’s right here, and it’s delicious.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
To ensure you get the full experience without the typical tourist pitfalls, follow these steps:
- Check the Daily Specials: Musso's has a rotating "Daily Feature" menu that hasn't changed in decades. Thursday is Chicken Pot Pie day, and it sells out fast. If you want it, book a lunch or early dinner slot.
- Request the "Old Room": When booking, specify you'd like to be seated in the Old Room if you want the 1919 atmosphere. The New Room (the bar side) is livelier, but the Old Room is where the literary ghosts live.
- Budget for the Experience: Expect to spend at least $100-$150 per person if you’re doing cocktails, appetizers, and steaks. It’s a splurge, so save it for a night when you want to feel like a movie star from 1945.
- Walk the Boulevard After: The contrast of stepping out of Musso's back into the 2026 neon of Hollywood Boulevard is half the fun. It’s the ultimate "time travel" moment.