Honestly, if you close your eyes and think about 90s sci-fi, you probably see a flash of neon orange hair and some white bandages. It’s unavoidable. The milla jovovich fifth element costume isn't just a movie prop; it's a permanent resident in the pop culture hall of fame. But here’s the thing: most people think it was just some "sexy space outfit" cooked up by a Hollywood studio to sell tickets.
The reality is way more interesting—and a lot more painful for Milla.
The Bandage Suit Wasn't Even the Director's Idea
When Luc Besson was putting together The Fifth Element, he didn't just hire a costume designer. He hired Jean Paul Gaultier. You know, the "Enfant Terrible" of French fashion? The guy who put Madonna in a cone bra? Gaultier didn't just "design" costumes; he basically staged a high-fashion takeover of the 23rd century. He created over 1,000 individual looks for the film. He was even on set personally checking the tucks and folds on random extras in the background. That's dedication. Or maybe just obsession.
But that famous white bandage suit? The "thermal bandages"? That actually came from Milla herself.
During pre-production, they were struggling to figure out what Leeloo should wear when she's first "born" in that lab. Besson wanted something that looked like a hospital gown but... cooler. Milla, who was only 19 at the time, was sitting in a wardrobe meeting and just said, "Listen, what about bandages?"
She'd seen how athletes or people in the hospital get wrapped up. Gaultier took that spark and ran with it. He looked at his own "underwear-as-outerwear" collections and realized that a few strategically placed strips of white fabric would convey exactly what Leeloo was: a vulnerable, raw, and brand-new being.
👉 See also: New Movies in Theatre: What Most People Get Wrong About This Month's Picks
Why it was actually a nightmare to film
It looks effortless on screen. In reality? It was a disaster for the stunts.
Because the costume was basically just skin and some cotton/elastane strips, Milla couldn't wear any padding. No knee pads, no elbow guards, nothing. When you see her crashing through glass or fighting off Mangalores, those bruises you might spot aren't always makeup. She told Vogue years later that she got "pretty bruised up" because there was nowhere to hide protection.
Plus, there was the "English guys" factor. Milla mentioned that while the French fashion crowd was used to seeing skin and acted professionally, the British crew members on set weren't exactly as... refined. There was a lot of whistling. She had to develop a thick skin pretty fast to walk around in what was essentially a high-fashion diaper.
That Orange Rubber: The Science of the "Suspenders"
Once Leeloo gets out of the lab and starts her "street" life, she switches to the second most iconic milla jovovich fifth element costume: the orange silicone suspenders and gold leggings.
If you’ve ever tried to DIY this for Halloween, you know the struggle. Most people use ribbon or elastic. But the screen-accurate version? It’s made of a specific type of cast silicone. It has this weird, matte, industrial texture that looks like it belongs in a hardware store.
✨ Don't miss: A Simple Favor Blake Lively: Why Emily Nelson Is Still the Ultimate Screen Mystery
- The Material: It wasn't fabric. It was heavy-duty rubber.
- The Design: It’s a "Y" shape that runs from the shoulders, down under the crotch (yes, really), and back up.
- The Hidden Meaning: Gaultier loved playing with gender. You’ll notice Korben Dallas (Bruce Willis) wears a similar orange rubber vest. It’s a visual link between the two characters—a "uniform" for the people saving the world.
The gold "thermal" leggings were also a nightmare. They were designed to look like advanced tech, but they were basically sweat-traps. If you look closely at the high-def remasters of the film, you can see how much the costume evolved from the initial sketches to the final "battle-worn" version.
The Frida Kahlo Connection Nobody Talks About
Here’s a deep-cut bit of trivia for you: Gaultier was heavily inspired by the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo when designing the bandage look.
Specifically, he was looking at Kahlo's 1944 painting The Broken Column. In the painting, Frida is depicted with a split torso, held together by a series of white medical straps and bandages. It’s an image of pain, but also incredible strength and resilience.
Gaultier took that "medical" aesthetic and flipped it. Instead of representing a broken body, the bandages on Leeloo represented a body being built. It’s a genius bit of visual storytelling that most people miss because they’re too busy looking at the bright orange hair.
How to Get the Look (Without Getting Arrested)
If you're actually trying to put together a milla jovovich fifth element costume for a con or a party, don't just buy a cheap polyester bag from a big-box store. Those always look like shiny trash.
🔗 Read more: The A Wrinkle in Time Cast: Why This Massive Star Power Didn't Save the Movie
Honestly, the "bandage" look is best achieved with heavy-weight white denim or thick cotton twill. If you use actual bandages or thin gauze, they’ll shift, and you'll have a wardrobe malfunction before you can even say "Multipass."
For the suspenders, if you can’t find silicone, look for "stretch vinyl." It gives that same rubbery sheen without the $500 price tag of custom-poured rubber. And for the love of God, get a good wig. The "Leeloo Orange" is a very specific, almost neon-apricot color. If it’s too red, you look like a generic superhero; if it’s too yellow, you look like a highlighter.
Actionable Next Steps for Cosplayers and Collectors
- Fabric Choice: If you’re doing the bandage suit, use "four-way stretch" thick spandex or cotton. It needs to move with you, or you won't be able to sit down.
- The Boots: Don’t forget the boots. They’re technically black "Earth" brand boots with custom neoprene covers. You can fake this with black combat boots and some matte black fabric wrapped around the ankles.
- The "Dirt" Factor: The costume looks better when it’s a little messy. In the movie, Leeloo goes through hell. A little gray eye shadow rubbed into the edges of the bandages makes it look like you actually just fell through the roof of a flying taxi.
- The Prop: A Leeloo costume is 50% "Multipass." You can find high-quality 3D printed files online for free. Print it, paint it, and carry it. It gives you something to do with your hands while people are staring at your orange hair.
The impact of Gaultier's work on this film can't be overstated. He didn't just dress the actors; he built the world. Even 25+ years later, these designs don't look "dated" in the way that other 90s sci-fi does. They look like a future we still haven't quite reached yet.
Whether it's the sheer audacity of the bandages or the weird industrial vibe of the rubber suspenders, Milla Jovovich's wardrobe in this movie remains the gold standard for how to make a character look legendary from the very first frame.