Sneaker history is messy. If you ask a casual fan about the early days of the Jordan brand, they’ll probably point to the "Bred" or "Chicago" colorways. Those are the icons. They’re the shoes that got Michael Jordan fined (allegedly) and started a multi-billion dollar empire. But if you talk to someone who actually lived through the mid-80s or spends their weekends digging through dusty forums and Japanese collector magazines, they’ll bring up the Metallic Series. Specifically, the Metallic Jordan 1 Red. It’s a weird shoe. Honestly, it shouldn't have worked as well as it did, yet it remains one of the most elusive "holy grails" for people who value storytelling over hype.
In 1985 and 1986, Nike was throwing everything at the wall. The Air Jordan 1 was a hit, but the brand wanted to see how far they could push the lifestyle angle. Most of the original 1985 lineup used standard matte leather. Then came the Metallics. These weren't meant for the court, even though MJ wore them occasionally. They were flashier. They were meant for the street.
What Actually Makes the Metallic Jordan 1 Red Different?
The most striking thing about the Metallic Jordan 1 Red is the finish. While the base of the shoe is that classic, smooth white leather we’ve seen a thousand times, the accents—the Swoosh and the ankle collar—feature a shimmering, pearlescent burgundy-red. It’s a "Metallic Red," but in person, it has this deep, rich luster that changes depending on how the light hits it. It’s subtle but distinctive.
Most people don’t realize how rare the original 1986 pairs are today. Finding a "deadstock" pair from the 80s is nearly impossible because of the materials Nike used. The metallic paint had a nasty habit of cracking and peeling over time. It’s basically the sneaker equivalent of old car paint. If you find an OG pair now, that shiny red is usually flaking off, leaving behind a dull, suede-like texture. Collectors actually call this "glitter shed." It’s a badge of honor, really. It proves the shoe is authentic.
Why the 2017 Retro Polarized the Community
Fast forward to 2017. Nike finally decided to give the fans what they wanted: a proper retro of the Metallic Jordan 1 Red. People were hyped. I remember the chatter on NikeTalk and Reddit. Everyone thought this was going to be the "shoe of the year." But when it actually dropped? It sat on shelves. You could walk into a Foot Locker weeks later and find them on clearance.
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Why did that happen?
Part of it was the timing. In 2017, the market was obsessed with "remastered" shapes and collaborations. A clean, two-tone white and red shoe felt almost too simple for some people. But the real reason was the leather quality. The 2017 version used a stiffer, more processed leather than the buttery OGs. It didn’t "age" the same way. However, looking back now, that 2017 release was a sleeper hit. Prices on the secondary market like StockX and GOAT have steadily climbed because people realized that, compared to the over-designed mess of modern sneakers, the Metallic Red is a masterpiece of minimalism.
The Design Nuances You Might Miss
- The Wings Logo: On the original '86 pairs, the Wings logo was often printed in a slightly different shade than the Swoosh.
- The Tongue Tag: Authentic retros usually feature "Nike Air" on the tongue, which is a big deal for purists. The mid-top versions (which also came out in metallic colors) usually have the Jumpman logo, which collectors generally look down on.
- The Shape: The 1985/86 "High" silhouette has a higher cut around the ankle and a thinner "vamp" (the toe area) compared to modern retros.
The Cultural Impact: From the Court to the Street
It’s easy to forget that Michael Jordan actually wore these. There are rare photos of him during the 1985-86 season sporting the Metallic line during practice and even some promotional appearances. He didn't wear them during the playoffs—that was reserved for the heavy hitters—but the fact that he laced them up at all gives them "on-court" DNA.
But the Metallic Jordan 1 Red really found its home in the "lifestyle" category. It was one of the first times Nike realized that sneakers weren't just equipment; they were fashion accessories. By adding that metallic sheen, they were courting a different crowd. They were looking at the hip-hop scene and the growing streetwear culture in New York and Los Angeles. It was a bold move that paved the way for every "flashy" sneaker we see today, from the Patent Leather Breds to the Liquid Gold collections.
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Common Misconceptions About "Metallic" Colorways
A lot of people confuse the "Metallic Red" with the "Team Red" or the "Heritage" colorways. They aren't the same. The "Heritage" 1, for example, uses a lot more red on the toe box and heel. The Metallic Jordan 1 Red is strictly white-based. It’s a "clean" shoe. If you see red on the toe, it’s not a Metallic.
Another myth is that all Metallic 1s are created equal. In the 80s, Nike released Metallics in Purple, Blue, Green, and Orange as well. The Red and the Purple are generally considered the "kings" of the collection. The Blue is great, but the Red has that connection to the Bulls' colors that just makes it feel more "Jordan."
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a Time Traveler
Let's be honest: wearing shiny red shoes can be intimidating. If you overdo it, you look like you’re trying too hard. The beauty of the Metallic Jordan 1 Red is that the "flash" is concentrated in small areas.
- Keep the pants simple. Raw denim or black chinos are your best friends here. You want the shoes to be the focal point, but you don't want them competing with loud patterns on your legs.
- Avoid matching too perfectly. You don't need a metallic red jacket to match your metallic red shoes. That's a rookie move. A simple grey hoodie or a white tee is plenty.
- Embrace the wear. Don't be afraid to let the metallic paint scuff a little. These shoes look better when they've been lived in. The "pristine" look is overrated.
The Investment Angle: Is it Worth Buying Now?
If you’re looking at the Metallic Jordan 1 Red as an investment, you have to be smart. The 1986 originals are museum pieces. Unless you have thousands of dollars and a climate-controlled display case, stay away. The foam in the soles will literally turn to dust if you try to wear them.
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The 2017 retro is the "sweet spot." As of 2026, these are becoming harder to find in good condition. Because they were slept on at launch, there aren't as many deadstock pairs floating around as there are for, say, the "Lost and Found" 1s. If you can find a pair for a reasonable price, grab them. They are a staple that won't go out of style because they aren't tied to a specific "trend" moment. They are just part of the foundation of sneaker culture.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you've decided you need a pair of Metallic Jordan 1 Red sneakers in your life, here is how you should proceed:
- Check the SKU: For the 2017 version, the style code is 555088-103. Use this to search on reputable resale sites to ensure you're looking at the right model.
- Inspect the Collar: On used pairs, look closely at the red ankle collar. This is where the metallic finish cracks first. If it's already peeling badly, use that as leverage to negotiate a lower price.
- Verify the Tongue: Ensure the tongue is white nylon with a red "Nike Air" tag. If the tag is black or has a Jumpman, you’re looking at a different (and likely less valuable) model.
- Size Up (Slightly): Older Jordan 1 cuts can be a bit narrow. If you have wide feet, going up half a size is usually a safe bet for comfort, especially since the 2017 leather doesn't stretch much.
The Metallic Jordan 1 Red represents a specific moment in time when Nike was still figuring out its identity. It’s a bridge between the grit of 80s basketball and the flash of modern celebrity culture. Whether you're a historian or just someone who likes a clean pair of kicks, these deserve a spot in the conversation. They aren't the loudest shoe in the room, but for those who know what they're looking at, they're often the most interesting.
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