You’re driving down the Pacific Coast Highway in Santa Monica, the salt air hitting your face, and you pass a sprawling, modern-looking complex with a splash pad and a volleyball court. It looks like a standard, albeit very nice, public park. But if you were standing in that exact spot in 1929, you’d be staring at the most decadent private residence in America.
We’re talking about the Marion Davies Beach House.
Back then, it wasn't a "community center." It was a 110-room Georgian Colonial mansion built by media tycoon William Randolph Hearst for his mistress, the silent film star Marion Davies. They called it "Ocean House," but to the rest of the world, it was the "Versailles of Hollywood." Most people today visit the Annenberg Community Beach House without realizing they are walking over the ghosts of a $7 million dollar playground (that's over $120 million in today's money) where Charlie Chaplin and Greta Garbo used to drink bootleg gin by a marble-lined pool.
The Myth of the "Cottage"
One of the funniest things about this place is how Marion and W.R. (as she called Hearst) referred to it. They’d talk about "the beach house" like it was some cozy little weekend getaway. Honestly, it was a monstrosity of luxury.
The main house was three stories tall. It had 37 fireplaces. It had 55 bathrooms. Think about that for a second. Why does one couple need 55 bathrooms? The answer is they didn't, but their parties—which often lasted three days straight—required an army of staff and a revolving door of A-list celebrities.
Julia Morgan’s Touch
While Hearst’s name is on the deed, the soul of the property belongs to Julia Morgan. She was the first woman to get an architect’s license in California and the mastermind behind Hearst Castle in San Simeon. At the Santa Monica site, she didn't just build a house; she managed a five-acre estate that included three separate guest houses, a staff building, and a massive heated saltwater pool.
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Morgan was known for her precision. She didn't just pick out wallpaper; she oversaw the installation of entire rooms imported from European castles. We're talking 18th-century English wood carvings by Grinling Gibbons and hand-painted murals that cost as much as a suburban home.
What’s Left Today?
If you go there now, you might feel a bit of a letdown if you’re expecting a 100-room mansion. That’s because the main house is gone. Completely.
In 1956, after a brief stint as a failing hotel called Oceanhouse, the mansion was demolished. It’s kinda heartbreaking. People protested, but the costs to maintain a wood-framed palace on the edge of the Pacific were astronomical. Termites and dry rot don't care about Hollywood history.
However, two major pieces of the original 1920s glory survived:
- The Guest House (North House): This is the only original residential structure left. It’s a 7,000-square-foot "guest wing" that gives you a sense of the scale. The tiles in the bathrooms are original—vibrant blues and greens that look like they were installed yesterday.
- The Marble Pool: This is the crown jewel. It’s 110 feet of Italian marble with a bridge inspired by the Rialto in Venice.
You can still swim in that pool. For about ten bucks, you can float in the same water where Cary Grant used to hang out. It’s one of the few places in Los Angeles where "Old Hollywood" feels tangible rather than just a story told by a tour guide.
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The Wild Parties and the Carousel
The stories that come out of the Marion Davies Beach House are the stuff of legend. In 1937, for a "Night in Heidelberg" themed party, Hearst reportedly had a full-sized carousel transported to the beach. To get it into the house, they actually had to knock down a wall.
That’s the kind of wealth we’re talking about. "I want a merry-go-round, so break the house and fix it later."
Marion was the ultimate hostess. Unlike Hearst, who could be stiff and formal, Davies was known for being incredibly down-to-earth. She’d stutter—a trait she leaned into for comedic effect—and was famous for slipping jewelry or cash into the pockets of friends who had fallen on hard times during the Depression. She was the life of the party, but she was also the glue that held Hearst’s social empire together.
From Private Fortress to Public Landmark
The transition from a gated elite fortress to the Annenberg Community Beach House is actually a pretty cool story of urban survival. After the mansion was torn down, the site became the Sand & Sea Club. If you’ve ever watched Beverly Hills, 90210, the beach club where Brandon Walsh worked? That was filmed here.
But the 1994 Northridge Earthquake nearly finished the place off. The remaining structures were red-tagged and sat rotting for years.
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It took a $27.5 million grant from the Annenberg Foundation to bring it back. The City of Santa Monica had a vision to make it a "Public Place Henceforth." They hired Frederick Fisher and Partners to design new, modern buildings that echo the footprint of the old mansion without trying to fake a historical look. The white columns you see today aren't just for decoration—they mark exactly where the walls of the original 110-room house used to stand.
Why You Should Actually Go
It’s not just a history lesson. It’s a genuinely great place to spend a Tuesday.
- The Tours: Docents from the Santa Monica Conservancy give free tours of the Guest House. Do not skip this. They’ll show you the "Rathskellar" (the basement tavern) and the intricate nautical details in the woodworking.
- The Pool: It’s heated to about 82 degrees. It’s usually open from Memorial Day through Labor Day. It gets crowded, so show up early to get a pass.
- The View: There’s a second-floor viewing deck. You can look out at the ocean and realize that for twenty years, this was the most coveted view in the world.
A Few Insider Tips
Parking at 415 Pacific Coast Highway is a nightmare during the summer. Use the park-and-pay machines immediately when you arrive, or better yet, take the Big Blue Bus. Also, the "Back on the Beach Cafe" on-site is actually good—it’s not just overpriced park food. Their breakfast burritos are legendary among locals.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
If you're planning to explore the legacy of the Marion Davies Beach House, here is how to do it right:
- Check the Calendar: The Guest House isn't open every day. Usually, tours run Friday through Monday, 12 PM to 2 PM. Call (310) 458-4904 to confirm before you drive out.
- Bring the Kids: Unlike a stuffy museum, the Annenberg site is incredibly kid-friendly. There’s a splash pad that’s totally free and a great playground.
- The Gold Coast Walk: Start at the Beach House and walk south along the sand. This stretch of beach was home to Louis B. Mayer and Mae West. You can still see some of the original 1920s facades that haven't been replaced by glass-and-steel modern boxes.
- Look for the "Ghost" Columns: When you're in the courtyard, look at the white pillars. They represent the scale of the original mansion. It helps you visualize just how massive the footprint was compared to the current structures.
The Marion Davies Beach House represents a weird, wonderful bridge between the untouchable glamour of the 1920s and the accessible, public-minded California of today. You don't have to be a movie star to get past the gates anymore. You just need a towel and a pair of sunglasses.