You’ve seen them everywhere. Instagram, Pinterest, that one girl at the coffee shop who looks like she spent three hours on her hair but claims she "just threw it together." The long hair fishtail braid has this weird reputation for being the final boss of hairstyling. People look at that intricate, woven texture and immediately assume you need three hands or a cosmetology license to pull it off.
Honestly? It’s easier than a standard three-strand braid once the muscle memory kicks in.
The problem is most tutorials make it sound like a math equation. They talk about "sections A and B" and "symmetrical tension," which just stresses everyone out. If you have long hair, you actually have a massive advantage because you have more "rope" to work with. But you also have the curse of tangles. Let's get into what actually makes this style work, why your layers might be ruining your life, and how to stop the braid from unraveling before you even leave the bathroom.
Why Your Long Hair Fishtail Braid Looks "Off"
Most people fail at the fishtail because they take chunks that are way too big. If you grab thick sections, you aren't making a fishtail; you’re just making a messy rope. The secret—and this is the part that takes forever but makes the look—is using tiny, thin slivers of hair from the outside edges.
It’s about the "over-and-under" rhythm.
When you have a lot of length, the weight of the hair starts to pull the braid down as you work. This is why so many long-haired people end up with a braid that’s tight at the top and weirdly loose and gappy by the time they reach their mid-back. Expert stylists like Chris Appleton, who works with Kim Kardashian, often emphasize the importance of consistent tension. If you let go for a second to grab a hair tie, the whole structure can shift.
The Texture Trap
If your hair is "too clean," give up now. Or, at least, go grab some dry shampoo.
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Silky, freshly washed long hair is the enemy of the fishtail. It slides. It slips out of your fingers. It refuses to hold that crisp, woven pattern. You need "grit." Many professional stylists recommend using a sea salt spray or a lightweight texturizing powder before you even start sectioning. This gives the hair some "teeth" so the strands actually grab onto each other.
The Step-by-Step (The Non-Confusing Version)
First, split your hair into two even sections. Just two. Forget the three-strand mindset.
- Hold one section in each hand. Keep them separate.
- Take a tiny sliver of hair from the very outside of the left section.
- Cross that sliver over the top of the left section and tuck it under the right section. Now it’s part of the right side.
- Do the same on the right. Grab a tiny piece from the outside, cross it over, and tuck it under the left.
- Repeat until your arms ache.
It sounds repetitive because it is. But here is the trick: keep your thumbs pressed against the center of the braid as you work. This acts as an anchor. If you don't keep that center point tight, the braid will sag.
Dealing With the Length
Since we’re talking about a long hair fishtail braid, you’re going to run into a physical problem: your arms aren't long enough. Once you get past your shoulders, you can’t see what you’re doing in the mirror, and your shoulders start to burn.
At this point, flip the braid over your shoulder to the front.
Wait. Be careful here. When you flip the braid from the back to the front, you have to be mindful of the direction you’re crossing the strands. If you change your hand positioning mid-stream, you’ll get a visible "kink" in the braid pattern. Most people don't notice it, but you will. To avoid this, keep the "outside-to-inside" motion exactly the same as if the braid were still hanging down your back.
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Common Mistakes That Kill the Look
Stop using those thick, fabric-covered hair ties for the bottom. They look bulky and ruin the tapered aesthetic of a fishtail. Use those tiny, clear elastic bands. If you're worried about them breaking your hair, you can actually coat the elastic in a tiny bit of hair oil before putting it on.
Another big one? Not "pancaking."
A raw fishtail braid often looks thin and slightly skeletal, especially on long hair where the weight stretches the links. "Pancaking" is the pro term for gently pulling at the edges of the braid once it's tied off. You start from the bottom and work your way up, tugging the loops outward. This doubles the width of the braid and gives it that "Boho" look. Just don't pull too hard, or you’ll pull the whole strand out and have to start over.
The Layer Problem
If you have a lot of layers, the long hair fishtail braid can be a nightmare. You'll have little "poke-ies" sticking out all the way down the braid.
You have two choices here.
- You can embrace the "messy" look, which is actually very trendy right now.
- You can use a light-hold hairspray on each section before you cross it over.
The hairspray acts like a glue, keeping those shorter layers tucked into the main body of the braid. Some people also use a tiny bit of pomade on their fingertips while braiding to keep everything sleek.
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Variations for the Bored and Brave
Once you master the basic two-strand version, you can start getting fancy. The French Fishtail is a popular variation where you start at the crown of the head and pick up new hair as you go down, similar to a French braid but using the two-strand fishtail technique. It's incredibly secure and great for hiking or windy days.
Then there’s the "inverted" or Dutch fishtail. Instead of crossing the slivers over the top, you cross them under. This makes the braid sit on top of the hair like a 3D rope. It’s a bit more advanced because your fingers have to move in a way that feels counter-intuitive, but the result is stunning on very long, thick hair.
Real-World Endurance
How long does it actually last? Honestly, a well-done fishtail can survive a workout if it's tight enough. But for the "pancaked," loose version, you're looking at about 6 to 8 hours before it starts to look a bit too lived-in. If you're heading to a wedding or an event, a finishing spray is non-negotiable. Look for something with a "firm hold" but "touchable finish"—you don't want your hair to look like plastic.
Tools You Actually Need
You don't need a kit of twenty items. Most of the stuff marketed for braiding is fluff.
- A Rat-tail Comb: Essential for getting that clean part down the middle.
- Clear Elastics: Get the "no-snag" kind.
- Dry Texture Spray: Brands like Oribe or even drugstore options like Not Your Mother's work wonders.
- A Hand Mirror: To check the back. Obviously.
The Verdict on the Long Hair Fishtail Braid
It’s a classic for a reason. It’s more interesting than a ponytail but less "schoolgirl" than a standard braid. It shows off highlights and lowlights beautifully because of the way the strands overlap. If you have ombre or balayage hair, the fishtail is basically the best way to showcase the color transition.
Is it a pain to do the first five times? Yeah. Your arms will hurt. You will probably drop a section and have to start over. You'll get frustrated because one side looks thicker than the other.
But once you get the rhythm, it's a "set it and forget it" hairstyle that looks like a million bucks.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Prep the canvas: Don't try this on hair you just conditioned in the shower. Use a texturizing spray or wait until "day two" hair for the best grip.
- The "Pinky" Technique: Use your pinky fingers to hook the tiny slivers of hair from the back of each section; it's much more precise than using your whole hand.
- Start low: If you're a beginner, don't try to start at the top of your head. Secure your hair into a low side-ponytail with a disposable elastic first, braid the ponytail, and then carefully snip the top elastic away once the braid is finished.
- Pancake with purpose: Always start widening the braid from the bottom up. If you start at the top, you'll run out of "slack" by the time you reach the ends.
- Seal the deal: Use a light mist of hairspray, but avoid high-shine serums at the end, as they can make the intricate weaving look greasy rather than defined.