If you’ve ever found yourself driving through the quiet, marshy stretches of Washington County, North Carolina, you’ve probably felt that weird sensation of being in a place that time just... forgot. It's beautiful, sure. But it’s also haunting. Right where Kendrick Creek spills its dark, tannin-stained water into the massive Albemarle Sound, there’s a spot called Mackeys.
Most people know it for one thing: The Landing at Mackeys.
But honestly? Most people get the story completely backwards. They think it's just a sleepy marina restaurant with some decent fried shrimp. They miss the fact that for over 200 years, this tiny patch of muddy bank was basically the Grand Central Station of the Inner Banks. Without the "landing" at Mackeys, the history of Eastern North Carolina doesn't just look different—it barely functions.
The Landing at Mackeys: Not Just a Place to Eat
Today, if you pull up to 8103 Mackeys Road in Roper, you’re looking for a meal. The Landing at Mackeys is a local staple, the kind of place where you can get a serious burger or a plate of scallops while looking out at the water. It’s casual. It’s got that "salt-in-the-air" vibe that you can't fake.
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But the "landing" isn't just the name on the menu.
Historically, this site was the southern terminus for the Mackeys Ferry. Established way back in 1735 by William Mackey—who actually bought it from Thomas Bell—this ferry was the lifeline between Edenton and the settlements to the south. Before there were bridges, before there were paved highways, there was this.
You’ve got to imagine the scene in the 1700s. No air conditioning. Just thick, humid air and the sound of water.
Early on, it was just a flatboat. You’d pay 30 shillings if you had a horse, or 15 if you were on foot. It wasn't a quick trip. It was a slow, grueling pull across the sound. By the 1800s, things got more sophisticated with steam power, and eventually, the railroad showed up and changed everything.
Why the Railroad Trestle Was a Big Deal
People talk about the "Longest Bridge in the World" like it’s a legend, but for a while, Mackeys actually had a claim to it. In 1910, the Norfolk Southern Railroad finished a wooden trestle that spanned over five miles across the Albemarle Sound. It connected Mackeys directly to Edenton.
Before the bridge? They used a massive train ferry called the John W. Garrett.
They would literally roll the train cars onto the boat, sail them across the water, and roll them off on the other side. Can you imagine the logistics of that? It was 351 feet long and 41 feet wide. It was a monster of a vessel for its time.
The bridge eventually replaced the ferry, but the bridge itself is gone now, too. It was dismantled in the late 1980s because the maintenance costs were just astronomical. Now, when you look out from the restaurant deck, you're looking at empty water where one of the most impressive engineering feats in the South used to stand.
What’s Actually on the Menu?
Let’s get practical for a second. If you’re heading there today, you aren't there for a history lesson; you’re there because you're hungry.
The Landing at Mackeys keeps things pretty focused. It’s heavy on the seafood, obviously. You’re sitting on a creek that leads to a sound. If they didn't have shrimp, there’d be a riot.
- Seafood Platter: You’ve got the standard fried or broiled options—shrimp, oysters, scallops.
- The Burgers: Surprisingly, their burgers have a huge following. They’re thick, hand-patted, and don't taste like they came out of a freezer box.
- Steaks and Pasta: For the folks who aren't feeling fishy, they do a solid ribeye.
The hours can be a bit "coastal," which is a polite way of saying they change with the seasons. Usually, in the fall and winter, they’re open Thursday through Sunday. In the summer, things pick up. It’s always a good idea to call ahead because if the weather is trash, the vibe changes.
The Marina Vibe
It’s worth noting that the restaurant is part of the larger Mackeys Marina.
This isn't one of those fancy, high-end yacht clubs with a dress code. It’s a working marina. You’ll see guys in Grundéns bibs hauling in the catch of the day. There’s a ship’s store where you can buy bait, tackle, and ice-cold drinks.
The water in Kendrick Creek is deep—we're talking 6-foot drafts easily—so it’s a favorite spot for sailors who need a protected place to hide when the Albemarle Sound starts acting up. And believe me, that sound can get nasty. It’s shallow, which means the wind can whip up four-foot chops in a heartbeat.
The Real Estate Reality
There’s been a lot of chatter lately about development around Mackeys. Honestly, it’s one of the last "affordable" waterfront spots in North Carolina, though "affordable" is a relative term these days.
Right now, there’s a massive 17-acre plot of land right on Mackeys Creek (around 8103 Mackeys Rd) that’s been sitting on the market. It’s got a private canal and direct access to the sound. Investors have been eyeing it for years, dreaming of turning it into a subdivided waterfront community or a bigger marina.
But Mackeys has a way of resisting that kind of "shiny" development. The ground is low. The history is deep. The locals like the quiet.
Why Mackeys Still Matters
You might wonder why anyone cares about a tiny unincorporated community in Washington County.
The truth is, Mackeys represents the "Inner Banks" before they got "discovered." It’s the antithesis of the Outer Banks. There are no t-shirt shops. No putt-putt courses. No $15 parking lots.
It’s a place where you can still see the remnants of the old fish houses that have lined the creek since the 1700s. It’s a place where the railroad tracks were only removed in 2004, meaning there are people living there today who remember when the trains still whistled through the marsh.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind
If you’re planning a trip to The Landing at Mackeys, don’t just rush in and out.
- Check the wind. If the wind is blowing hard from the North, the Albemarle Sound is going to be a wall of whitecaps. It changes the whole atmosphere of the landing.
- Explore Roper. The town of Roper itself is tiny, but it’s full of old architecture and quiet roads that are perfect for a slow drive.
- The History Marker. Look for the NC Highway Historical Marker (B-22) nearby. It’s a simple silver sign, but it marks the spot where the ferry operated for over 200 years. 203 years, to be exact.
The Landing at Mackeys isn't just a restaurant. It’s a survivor. It survived the end of the ferry era, the rise and fall of the railroad, and the changing tides of the North Carolina economy.
Basically, it’s the heart of a community that refuses to disappear.
If you find yourself there, grab a seat on the deck. Order the shrimp. Look out at the water where the trestle used to be and imagine a 350-foot steam ferry chugging across that gap. It makes the food taste a little bit better when you realize how much work it took just to get to that spot a hundred years ago.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Verify Hours: Before you make the drive to Roper, check the Mackeys Marina website or their social media for current restaurant hours, as they are seasonal.
- Boater Access: If arriving by water, contact the marina ahead of time to check slip availability; the creek is deep, but the marina is often full during peak fishing seasons.
- Historical Sites: Combine your visit with a trip to Edenton (just across the bridge/Sound) to see the northern side of the old ferry route and the historic Chowan County Courthouse.