You’ve probably seen the headlines or the glossy travel photos of the "Land of Women" in Mexico. It sounds like a myth, right? Or maybe a scene from Wonder Woman. But for the people of Juchitán de Zaragoza, tucked away in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Oaxaca, it’s just Tuesday. This isn't some feminist utopia cooked up in a lab. It is a loud, dusty, vibrant reality where the women run the money, the markets, and the social fabric while the men work the fields or the sea.
Honestly, calling it a pure matriarchy is a bit of a stretch, though people love to do it. It’s more of a "matrifocal" society. That’s a fancy way of saying the mother is the sun that the whole family orbit around. If you walk into the central market, you won't see many men. You'll see the Zapotec women, the Tehuanas, wearing their famous embroidered tunics and long skirts, shouting prices and managing complex credit systems. It’s their world.
The Economy of the Market
Money talks. In Juchitán, women hold the purse strings. That is the fundamental pillar of why the Land of Women exists in this specific pocket of the world. While the men are out doing the heavy lifting—fishing or farming—the women are the ones who turn those raw goods into cash. They are the entrepreneurs.
Think about it.
If you control the bank account, you control the house. Historically, the Zapotec women of the Isthmus have been the bridge between the local production and the outside world. This economic leverage isn't just about buying groceries; it’s about social standing. A man might work all day, but he brings his catch to his wife, daughter, or mother to sell. She decides the price. She manages the savings. She decides if the roof gets fixed.
It’s an incredible shift from the machismo culture that dominates much of the rest of Mexico. In Juchitán, a woman's value isn't tied to her domesticity in a submissive sense, but her power as a provider and a community leader.
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Beyond Gender: The Muxe Identity
You can't talk about the Land of Women without talking about the Muxes. This is where Juchitán really breaks the brain of anyone trying to fit it into a neat little box. In Zapotec culture, a Muxe is generally someone born male who adopts female roles—whether that's dress, profession, or social behavior. They are often called the "third gender."
They aren't just "tolerated." They are often celebrated. Many families consider it a blessing to have a Muxe child because they often stay home to care for their aging parents rather than starting a traditional family of their own.
- Muxes excel in the arts, specifically the intricate embroidery of the huipil (the traditional blouse).
- They are often the life of the Velas, the massive festivals that define the local calendar.
- They occupy a unique middle ground, blending masculine and feminine strengths.
Anthropologists like Marinella Miano Borruso have spent years studying this. It’s not about being "gay" in the Western sense of the word. It’s about a social role that has existed since pre-Hispanic times. It’s fluid. It’s complicated. And it’s deeply rooted in the idea that the community is stronger when people are allowed to be who they are.
What People Get Wrong About Juchitán
Let’s get real for a second. Western media loves to romanticize this place. They paint it as a land where men are oppressed and women rule with an iron fist. That’s just not true. Men still hold most of the formal political offices and police roles. The "power" we talk about in the Land of Women is social and economic, but it doesn’t mean the gender struggle is over.
Violence against women still happens. Poverty is a massive issue. When the 8.2 magnitude earthquake hit in 2017, Juchitán was devastated. The women were the ones standing in the ruins of the market, trying to piece their lives back together, but the lack of infrastructure support was a harsh reminder that they are still a marginalized indigenous group within the larger framework of Mexico.
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Also, the "Land of Women" isn't a tourist theme park. It’s a working-class city. It's hot. It's loud. The wind blows so hard it can knock over a truck. If you go there looking for a spa-like retreat, you're going to be very disappointed. You go there to see a culture that refused to be flattened by the Spanish or by modern globalization.
The Power of the Vela
If you want to see the Land of Women in its full glory, you have to be there for a Vela. These are the patron saint festivals. They are legendary. Imagine hundreds of women in gold jewelry and $1,000 hand-embroidered dresses drinking beer and dancing the Sandunga.
The women are the hosts. They are the ones who organize the food, the music, and the guest lists. It is a massive display of wealth and social capital. It's also where you see the hierarchy in action. The older women, the matriarchs, sit at the head of the tables, draped in gold coins. They’ve earned it through decades of market trading.
Why This Matters in 2026
We live in a world that is constantly debating gender roles. We’re obsessed with it. Juchitán offers a glimpse into a different way of organizing a life. It’s not perfect, but it proves that "the way things are" isn't the only way they can be.
The Zapotec language is still spoken here. The food—like garnachas (small fried tortillas with meat and cheese)—is unique to the region. This is a culture that has resisted assimilation for centuries. They’ve survived the Aztecs, the Spanish, and the Mexican government’s various attempts to "modernize" them. They stay Zapotec because the women keep the traditions alive. They teach the language to the children. They keep the recipes. They wear the clothes.
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Without the women, Juchitán would have been swallowed by the monoculture a long time ago.
How to Engage With the Land of Women Respectfully
If you’re planning to visit the Isthmus, don't just show up with a camera like you’re at a zoo.
- Buy local. Don't haggle too hard at the market. These women are master negotiators; they know what their work is worth.
- Learn a few Zapotec words. Padiuxi means hello. It goes a long way.
- Respect the Muxe culture. Don't treat them like a curiosity. They are integral members of the community, business owners, and artists.
- Go beyond Juchitán. Check out Tehuantepec and Ixtepec. Each town has its own flavor of this matrifocal culture.
The Land of Women isn't a relic of the past. It’s a living, breathing, and sometimes struggling society that manages to prioritize the female voice in a world that often tries to silence it. It’s messy. It’s loud. It’s beautiful. And it’s arguably one of the most interesting places on the planet.
Actionable Steps for the Conscious Traveler
To truly understand the dynamics of the Land of Women, you need to look past the surface level.
- Support the Cooperatives: Look for weaver cooperatives in the Isthmus. Buying a huipil directly from the maker ensures the money stays with the women who spent months embroidering it.
- Read the Scholarship: Check out "The Muxes of Juchitán" by researchers like Elena Poniatowska or documentaries that feature local voices rather than outside narrators.
- Visit the Casa de Cultura: In Juchitán, the local cultural center is a hub for Zapotec art and history. It provides the necessary context for why the town is structured the way it is.
- Travel during May: This is when the most famous Velas happen. Just be prepared for the heat—it’s intense, but the experience of seeing the town in full traditional dress is worth the sweat.
Understand that your presence as a visitor is a privilege. The women of Juchitán aren't there to perform for you; they are living their lives, running their businesses, and maintaining a culture that has survived against all odds. Respect that sovereignty.