You’ve probably seen the photos. That impossibly long infinity pool that seems to spill directly into the turquoise waters of Sun Moon Lake. The minimalist wood slats. The mist rolling over the mountains of Nantou.
Most travelers think The Lalu Sun Moon Lake is just another expensive resort for the Instagram crowd. They're wrong. Honestly, if you just go there for a selfie, you’re missing the entire point of the place. It isn’t a "new" hotel, and it isn't trying to be.
Built on the site of what was once the summer residence of Chiang Kai-shek, this property is basically a living museum of Taiwanese history and high-concept architecture. It opened in its current form in 2002, designed by the late, legendary Australian architect Kerry Hill. He called his style "Ongoing Style." It sounds a bit like marketing fluff, but once you’re standing in that lobby, you get it.
The building doesn’t age. It’s been decades, and yet the teak, the granite, and the glass still feel like they were installed yesterday.
Why the Architecture of The Lalu Sun Moon Lake Actually Matters
Most hotels in Taiwan are loud. They love marble, gold leaf, and bright lights. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake is the opposite. It’s quiet. Kerry Hill was obsessed with the idea of "Zen," but not in a cheesy, spa-playlist kind of way. He used local materials—Chinese cypress, indigenous stone, and massive amounts of teak—to create a space that feels like it’s breathing with the lake.
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The lighting is the secret sauce.
If you pay attention, the light inside the hotel changes seven times a day. It isn't just someone flicking a switch. The designers coordinated the artificial lights to sync with the natural movement of the sun across the water. In the morning, it's sharp and energetic. By sunset, the hotel glows with a weird, mystical amber that makes the wood look like it’s vibrating.
The Infinity Pool Illusion
Let’s talk about that pool. It’s 60 meters long, making it the longest in Taiwan. But the "trick" isn't just the length. The tiles are a specific shade of over-fired green that perfectly matches the color of the lake water on a clear day. When you swim to the edge, the visual boundary disappears. You aren't in a pool; you're suspended over the heart of Taiwan.
One thing that surprises people? The "swimming cap rule." Taiwan is strict about this. Even at a five-star resort like The Lalu, you have to wear a cap. It definitely ruins the "glamour" of the swim, but hey, it keeps the water pristine.
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The President Fish and the Dining Scene
You can’t stay at The Lalu Sun Moon Lake without hearing about the "President Fish."
It’s a local carp (Arossocheilus formosanus) that was famously the favorite dish of Chiang Kai-shek. He ate it every time he visited the peninsula. Today, the Lakeview Chinese Restaurant serves it exactly how he liked it.
Warning: it’s full of tiny bones. Like, a lot of them.
If you aren't a fan of surgical dining, head to the Japanese restaurant. They fly in seafood daily, and the vibe is much more intimate. For something more casual, the Oriental Brasserie does a solid mix of Western and Asian fusion. But honestly? The Tea House is where the magic is. It’s a floating pavilion surrounded by a koi pond. Sitting there with a cup of high-mountain Oolong while the mist settles over the lake is probably the most "Lalu" experience you can have.
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What Most Guides Forget to Tell You
The hotel is located on the Lalu Peninsula, which is sacred to the local Shao people. The small island you see in the middle of the lake—Lalu Island—is off-limits to tourists. It’s a site for Shao ancestor worship.
- The Han Bi Trail: There is a private entrance from the hotel to the Han Bi Trail. It’s a paved walking path that winds along the shoreline. It’s where the former president used to take his morning walks.
- The Library: Most people skip the hotel library. Don't. It’s packed with rare art books and a massive CD collection. You can actually borrow CDs and a player to take back to your room.
- The Room Layout: Every single room is a suite. You get at least 893 square feet of space. The "standard" is a bedroom, a massive living area, and a balcony with a daybed that’s bigger than most twin beds.
The Logistics of a Stay
It isn't cheap. Rates usually hover around NT$15,000 to NT$20,000 per night. If you’re looking for a deal, February and June are historically your best bets, though the weather in June can be a gamble with the start of typhoon season.
Getting there is a bit of a trek. From Taipei, you take the High-Speed Rail (HSR) to Taichung, then catch a shuttle or a private car for the 90-minute drive into the mountains. It feels remote because it is.
Actionable Tips for Your Trip
If you’re planning to drop the cash on a stay at The Lalu Sun Moon Lake, do these three things to make it worth the money:
- Book a High-Floor Lake View Room: The "Courtyard" rooms are nice, but you’re paying for the water. The view from the 6th or 7th floor is vastly superior to the lower levels where trees might obstruct the panorama.
- Request Breakfast on the Balcony: You can have the full buffet spread brought to your private daybed. Watching the sunrise over the mountains with a coffee in your hand, without having to see another human being, is the ultimate luxury.
- The Spa is Non-Negotiable: Their signature massage uses long, rhythmic strokes that mimic the waves of the lake. It sounds like a gimmick, but it’s consistently rated as one of the best spa experiences in Asia.
The Lalu isn't about "doing" things. It’s about stopping. In a world that’s constantly screaming for your attention, this place is a very expensive, very beautiful mute button.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the seasonal availability for the Lakeview Suites at least three months in advance, as they book out quickly for weekends.
- Pack a swimming cap if you plan on using the infinity pool to avoid buying a cheap plastic one at the front desk.
- Coordinate your HSR arrival time with the hotel's shuttle schedule to avoid the high cost of local mountain taxis.