So, you’ve probably heard of The Subway. Or maybe you’ve spent three months trying to win the permit lottery for Angels Landing only to end up with a "sorry, try again" email. It happens. But if you’re deep into the Southwest canyoneering scene, you eventually hear whispers about a place called The King and I Canyon.
It sounds like a Broadway show. It’s definitely not a Broadway show.
Honestly, if you go looking for a manicured trail with signs telling you where the bathroom is, you’re going to have a bad time. This is Zion National Park’s raw, technical side. It’s tucked away in the Kolob Terrace area, far from the shuttle buses and the crowds eating ice cream at the Lodge. Most people who visit Zion don't even know it exists, and that’s probably for the best.
What is The King and I Canyon, Really?
Basically, The King and I Canyon is a technical slot canyon. It’s not a hike in the traditional sense. You don't just "walk" through it. You descend it.
Located near the Northgate Peaks and the Great West Canyon, it’s part of that high-elevation sandstone playground that makes the Kolob Terrace so special. While the main canyon is all about height and vertical walls, the King and I is about the squeeze. It’s about the physics of ropes and the cold shock of water that hasn't seen the sun since the Ford administration.
You’ve got to be comfortable with "stemming"—which is just a fancy way of saying you’re bracing your back against one wall and your feet against the other because the floor disappeared. If that sounds like fun, you’re the target audience. If that sounds like a nightmare, stick to the Riverside Walk.
The Technical Nitty-Gritty
Let’s talk specs. You can't wing this.
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- Rating: Usually 3B II or III.
- Rappels: Expect around 3 to 5 drops.
- Longest Rappel: Roughly 50 to 60 feet, though anchors change with the weather.
- Water: It’s a "B" canyon. That means there’s water. Expect waist-deep pools or full swims depending on the season.
I’ve seen people try to do this in January. Don't do that. Even in the middle of a Utah summer, that water is bone-chillingly cold. A 3mm or 4mm wetsuit isn't just a suggestion; it’s a "keep-you-from-getting-hypothermia" requirement.
The Approach: Finding the Start
Getting to the trailhead is a bit of a drive. You’ll head out of Springdale, go through Virgin, and turn up the Kolob Terrace Road. It’s a winding, beautiful drive that gains a lot of elevation fast. You’ll likely start at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead.
The approach starts easy. You’re walking through ponderosa pines. It smells like vanilla and dirt. You feel great. Then, the navigation starts. This isn't a paved path. You’re looking for social trails, cairns (which you should never rely on because people move them), and landmarks like the "Northgate Peaks."
Navigation is where most people mess up. If you miss the drop-in point for The King and I Canyon, you’re just wandering around the desert with 40 pounds of wet rope on your back. Not a great look. You need a GPS or a very solid topo map and the ability to actually read it.
Why the Name?
Nobody is 100% sure, but the rumor is it’s named after the spectacular views of the "Guardian Angels" peaks nearby. Or maybe the first person to descend it just really liked Rodgers and Hammerstein. Most canyoneering names in Zion are either biblical or weirdly specific, and this one leans into the latter.
The Descent: What Happens Inside
Once you drop in, the world changes. The temperature drops 20 degrees. The light turns a weird, golden-orange.
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The first few rappels are pretty standard Zion fare—sandstone anchors, maybe a bolt or two (though you should always be prepared to build your own natural anchors). The rock here is soft. It’s Navajo Sandstone. It’s beautiful, but it’s also crumbly. You have to check every anchor. Don't just clip in because there’s a piece of webbing there. That webbing might have been sitting in the sun for three years.
The "Squeeze" Factor
There are sections in The King and I Canyon where the walls get tight. Really tight. If you’re claustrophobic, this is your personal hell. You’ll be sliding sideways, helmet scraping the rock, trying to figure out how to get your pack through without it getting wedged.
Pro tip: Use a "potshot" or a specialized canyon pack. Don't bring your 65-liter backpacking rig. You will get stuck, and your friends will laugh at you before they realize they have to help you out.
Survival and Ethics (The "Dad" Talk)
I have to be honest here: Zion is dangerous. People die in these canyons.
Flash floods are the biggest threat. If there is a 20% chance of rain anywhere in the drainage, you do not go in. Period. A slot canyon is basically a giant funnel. If it rains ten miles away, a wall of water can come screaming through that slot with zero warning. You can't outrun it. You can't climb out of it.
The Permit Situation
Yes, you need a permit. Zion National Park manages its backcountry strictly. You can get them through the Zion Wilderness Reservation System online.
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Don't be that person who sneaks in without one. The permit system isn't just about bureaucracy; it’s about "human impact" and "not having 50 people rappelling over each other’s heads." It’s also how the rangers know where to look if you don't come back.
Is It Better Than The Subway?
It’s different. The Subway is iconic. It’s a "bucket list" item. The King and I Canyon is for the person who has done The Subway three times and wants something a bit more technical and a lot less crowded. You won't see 40 other people. You’ll see your partners, some lizards, and maybe a very confused owl.
The aesthetics are top-tier. The way the light hits the fluted walls in the lower sections is enough to make a grown man cry—or at least stop and take forty photos that will never look as good as the real thing.
Gear You Actually Need
Forget the "top 10 lists" for a second. This is the stuff that actually matters:
- Static Rope: Do not use a dynamic climbing rope. It stretches too much and will get shredded by the sandstone. 60 meters is usually plenty.
- Pull Cord: Essential for some of the longer drops.
- Wetsuit: 3mm minimum. Even in July. Seriously.
- Sticky Rubber Shoes: Brand names like Five Ten or La Sportiva make shoes specifically for this. You need grip on wet rock.
- Helmet: Rocks fall. Heads are soft. Do the math.
Common Misconceptions
People think "technical" means "hard." Not necessarily. It just means you need a specific skill set. If you know how to rappel and how to build a basic anchor, The King and I Canyon is a moderate day out.
The other mistake? Thinking the hike out is the easy part. The exit from many Kolob canyons involves a grueling, uphill slog through "the subways" or up steep ridges. You’re tired, you’re wet, and now you have to climb 1,500 feet of elevation. Save some water and some snacks for the end.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
If you’re serious about doing this, don't just head to the trailhead.
- Check the Weather: Use the NOAA 7-day forecast for "Zion National Park." Look at the "hourly" forecast.
- Secure Your Permit: Log on to the NPS website exactly when the reservations open for the month. They go fast.
- Verify Your Skills: If you haven't rappelled in a year, go to a local crag or a bridge and practice your transitions. A canyon is not the place to "remember" how your ATC works.
- Download Offline Maps: Cell service is non-existent. Use Gaia GPS or OnX and download the layers for the Kolob Terrace.
- Pack a "Bail Out" Kit: Extra webbing, a few rapid links, and a first aid kit.
The King and I Canyon is one of those places that stays with you. It’s quiet, it’s intense, and it reminds you that the world is a lot bigger and more rugged than the view from the visitor center suggests. Respect the rock, watch the sky, and for heaven's sake, wear a wetsuit.