Snow was everywhere. On January 20, 1961, Washington D.C. was buried under eight inches of the white stuff, and the air was bone-chillingly cold. Most women in the crowd were bundled in heavy, shapeless furs. They looked, in the words of designer Oleg Cassini, "like bears."
Then came Jackie.
At just 31 years old, Jacqueline Kennedy stepped onto the inaugural platform and basically changed American fashion forever with a single look. The Jackie Kennedy inauguration outfit wasn't just a coat and a hat; it was a strategic masterpiece. It signaled the end of the fussy, structured 1950s and the birth of "Camelot." Honestly, if you look at photos of the event, she looks like she’s from a different century than everyone else standing on that podium.
The Day Look: A Masterclass in Subtraction
Most people remember the pillbox hat, but the coat was the real MVP of the morning ceremony. Designed by Oleg Cassini, her "Secretary of Style," the outfit consisted of a fawn-colored (some call it beige or greige) wool coat. It had two oversized buttons and a small sable collar.
Underneath? A matching wool dress.
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It was simple. Radical, even. While other political wives were draped in mink, Jackie chose a sleek, A-line silhouette that made her look young, vibrant, and approachable. She didn't want to look like old money; she wanted to look like the future.
That Famous Halston Hat
You can't talk about this day without mentioning the hat. It was a domed pillbox created by a then-unknown milliner named Roy Halston Frowick. You probably know him just as Halston.
Legend has it that Jackie actually thought her head was too big for hats. To compensate, Halston designed the pillbox to sit further back on her head. During the ceremony, the wind was whipping so hard that she had to keep her hand on it to stop it from flying away, which accidentally created a dent in the fabric. Every woman in America thought the dent was intentional. They all started denting their hats the next week. It's kinda funny how a literal accident became a global trend.
The Gala Gown: Designing Her Own Legend
When the sun went down, the fashion stakes went up. For the inaugural balls, Jackie didn't just pick a dress off a rack. She basically co-designed it.
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Working with Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Goodman’s Custom Salon, Jackie submitted her own sketches and ideas. The result was a sleeveless, off-white gown made of silk chiffon over a strapless bodice. It was encrusted with "brilliants" and embroidered with silver thread.
But the kicker was the cape.
- Fabric: Heavy silk satin twill.
- Color: Pure, brilliant white (it looked amazing on the new color TV broadcasts).
- Detail: A large, floor-length matching cape that fastened at the neck.
She looked like a queen, but a modern one. While previous First Ladies like Mamie Eisenhower often wore "off-the-rack" styles or very traditional, grand-dame gowns, Jackie’s look was architectural. It was clean. It was, frankly, very French—even though she had to pretend it was all-American to avoid political backlash.
The "French" Controversy
People forget that Jackie was actually bullied in the press during the campaign for her love of French couture. Critics called her "snobbish" for wearing Givenchy and Chanel.
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To fix the PR nightmare, she hired Cassini, an American designer, to create a "look" for her. But between us? She was still working behind the scenes to make sure everything had that Parisian flair. She was a master of the "line-for-line" copy—having American dressmakers recreate French designs so she could stay "on brand" for the U.S. while satisfying her own high-end taste.
Why We Are Still Obsessed
The Jackie Kennedy inauguration outfit works because it doesn't look "vintage" in a dusty way. You could wear that Cassini coat today and look like the chicest person in Manhattan.
She understood the power of the camera. She knew that pale colors would make her pop against the dark suits of the politicians. She knew that a simple silhouette would photograph better than busy patterns.
Key Lessons from Jackie’s Style:
- Simplicity wins: When in doubt, strip away the accessories.
- Understand your "canvas": She knew her height and frame and chose shapes (A-line, boat necks) that highlighted them.
- Monochrome is powerful: Wearing one color from head to toe creates an iconic, unforgettable silhouette.
If you’re looking to channel this vibe, start with the basics. Look for structured wool coats with minimal hardware. Avoid busy prints. And maybe, just maybe, find a hat that sits just right—even if you have to dent it yourself.
For those wanting to see the real deal, the gown and cape are currently held by the Smithsonian Institution in the First Ladies' Hall. It’s worth the trip just to see the silver threadwork in person; photos really don't do the "sparkle" justice. You can also look into Oleg Cassini’s book, A Thousand Days of Magic, which details the frantic, high-pressure fittings leading up to that snowy January morning.