You’re staring at that big, heavy box in the middle of your driveway. It’s hot. The kids are already asking if they can get in, even though the thing is still wrapped in plastic. An Intex swimming pool 15 feet wide feels like the perfect middle ground—not so small that it’s a glorified bathtub, but not so massive that it eats your entire backyard. But here is the thing: what the box doesn’t tell you is that the next six hours of your life will determine if this pool lasts five years or five days.
Most people think "above-ground" means "throw it on the grass."
Stop right there.
If you set an Intex 15-footer on a lawn that isn't perfectly level, you’re looking at thousands of gallons of water trying to escape. Gravity is a relentless jerk. Even a two-inch slope across fifteen feet of diameter puts thousands of pounds of pressure on one side of the frame. I’ve seen legs buckle. I’ve seen liners tear. It isn't pretty.
Why the 15-Foot Size is the "Sweet Spot" (And Where it Fails)
The 15-foot diameter is a classic for a reason. Specifically, the Intex Prism Frame or the Ultra XTR models in this size range offer about 4,000 to 5,000 gallons of water capacity depending on the depth, which is usually 42 or 48 inches.
It’s big.
You can actually swim laps—sort of—if you use a tether. But more importantly, it fits four or five adults comfortably without everyone bumping knees. However, the 15-foot size occupies a weird space in the market. It’s often packaged with a cartridge filter pump that, frankly, is a bit of a joke. Most "out of the box" Intex kits include a pump that struggles to circulate the volume of a pool this size. If you want crystal clear water, you basically have to accept that you'll be upgrading to a sand filter within the first month.
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The Ground Prep Nightmare
Leveling is everything. If you skip this, you’ll regret it.
Start by marking your circle. Get a stake, a string 7.5 feet long, and some spray paint. Spin it. That’s your footprint. Now, don't add dirt to low spots. This is the biggest mistake DIYers make. Added dirt compresses under the weight of 4,000 gallons of water. You must dig down into the high spots.
You need a transit level or at least a very long 2x4 with a bubble level on top. I’ve seen people use "leveling sand," but sand should only be a thin buffer to protect the liner from rocks, not a foundation. If your Intex swimming pool 15 feet is sitting on three inches of loose sand, the legs will sink, and the pool will tilt.
Think about the weight. Water weighs about 8.34 pounds per gallon.
4,500 gallons?
That’s over 37,000 pounds.
Your backyard needs to support a literal semi-truck’s worth of weight on a 15-foot circle.
The Concrete Paver Trick
Do not put the metal legs directly on the dirt. They will sink. Buy 12x12 inch concrete patio pavers. Dig out a spot for each leg so the paver sits flush with the ground. This gives the frame a solid foundation to distribute that massive weight. If the pavers are sticking up, they’ll create pressure points against the liner. Keep them level with the excavated ground.
Choosing Between Easy Set and Metal Frame
Intex makes two main versions of the 15-footer. You’ve got the Easy Set (the one with the inflatable ring) and the Metal Frame (or Prism/Ultra XTR).
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The Easy Set is tempting. It’s cheap. You blow up the ring, fill it with water, and the pool rises. But honestly? They are a headache. If a cat jumps on the ring or the sun degrades the vinyl, the whole thing collapses. Plus, the walls slope inward, so you lose actual swimming space.
The 15-foot Metal Frame is the superior choice for anyone who wants a "real" pool feel. The vertical walls mean more room. The powder-coated steel resists rust, though you should still keep an eye on the joints. Intex recently upgraded many of their 15-foot models to the "Easy Lock" system, which clicks together without those annoying plastic pins that used to break every season.
Dealing with the "Intex Soup" (Water Chemistry)
Small pools get dirty fast. Large pools stay stable. A 15-foot pool is right in the middle, which means it can turn into a swamp in 24 hours if the pH swings.
The pump that comes in the box usually runs for about 1,000 gallons per hour. On a 4,500-gallon pool, you need to run that thing at least 8 to 10 hours a day just to turn the water over twice. Most veterans of the "Intex life" eventually switch to the Intex Krystal Clear Sand Filter Pump. It’s a game changer. You stop buying those expensive paper filters and start using pool sand or glass media. It filters out much finer particles.
You also need a real test kit. Not just the strips—those are "sorta" accurate but can be wildly off if they get humid. Get a liquid drop kit (like the Taylor K-2006). You need to track:
- Chlorine (Keep it between 1-3 ppm)
- pH (7.2 to 7.6 is the sweet spot)
- Alkalinity (The "anchor" for your pH)
- Cyanuric Acid (The "sunscreen" for your chlorine)
Without Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer), the sun will burn off all your chlorine in about two hours. You’ll be pouring money into the water and still seeing algae.
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Safety and Local Laws
Check your local city ordinances. Seriously. Many towns require a fence for any pool deeper than 24 inches. Even though your Intex swimming pool 15 feet is portable, it often falls under the same legal requirements as a permanent in-ground pool.
You might need a permit. You might need a specific type of ladder that locks. You might even need a pool alarm. It feels like overkill for a "store-bought" pool, but the liability of an unfenced pool is massive. Don’t ignore this.
Winterizing vs. Tearing Down
Can you leave an Intex 15-foot pool up for the winter?
Yes. But it’s a risk.
If you live in a place where the ground freezes (like Chicago or New York), the ice expansion can stress the liner. However, many people successfully winterize them by draining the water below the return jets, blowing out the lines, and using a heavy-duty winter cover.
If you decide to take it down, make sure it is 100% dry. If you fold up a damp PVC liner and put it in a garage, by next June, you’ll open it up to find a moldy, rotted mess. Sprinkle some cornstarch or talcum powder on the liner as you fold it to prevent the vinyl from sticking together.
The Real Cost of Ownership
The pool itself might only cost $400 to $600. That’s the "hook."
But here is the real budget:
- Ground prep (sand, pavers, rental equipment): $100 - $200
- Chemicals for the season: $150
- Upgraded sand filter: $200
- Solar cover (to keep the heat in): $50
- Electricity for the pump: $15 - $30 a month
Suddenly, your $500 pool is a $1,200 investment. It’s still cheaper than a $50,000 in-ground pool, but you need to go in with your eyes open.
Actionable Steps for Success
- Survey your yard today. Find the flattest spot. Avoid trees if possible—leaves are the enemy of your filter.
- Buy a ground cloth. Don't just use a blue tarp from the hardware store; get a thick felt "gorilla pad" or high-density foam tiles. It makes the floor soft and protects against nutgrass (yes, some weeds can actually grow through a vinyl liner).
- Order a sand filter now. If you wait until the water turns green in July, they will be sold out or double the price.
- Fill it slowly. When you start filling, get in the pool with no shoes on. Use your feet to smooth out the wrinkles in the liner when there’s only an inch of water. Once there’s six inches, those wrinkles are locked in forever by the weight.
- Check your 110V outlet. These pumps shouldn't really be run on cheap extension cords. Ensure you have a GFCI-protected outlet nearby to prevent electrical shocks.
Owning a pool is a hobby, not just a purchase. If you treat it like a chore, you’ll hate it. If you treat it like a science project, you’ll have the best summer of your life.