Wong Kar-wai doesn’t just make movies; he crafts fever dreams. If you’ve seen the 2000 masterpiece In the Mood for Love, you know exactly what I’m talking about. The steam from the noodle stalls, the claustrophobic hallways of 1960s Hong Kong, and Maggie Cheung’s endless parade of high-collared cheongsams. But for a certain subset of enthusiasts—the horology nerds and vintage hunters—there is one specific detail that anchors the entire film’s melancholy vibe: the In the Mood for Love watch.
It’s a Rolex. Specifically, a Datejust.
But it isn't just a prop. In a film where time is the primary antagonist, the watch on Chow Mo-wan’s wrist (played by the effortlessly cool Tony Leung) becomes a silent character. It ticks away the seconds of a love that can never quite happen. It’s a piece of cinema history that people are still trying to track down at auctions and vintage shops today. Honestly, the obsession makes sense. The watch captures a very specific intersection of mid-century elegance and the gritty reality of a man living in a rented room, writing martial arts serials to pay the bills.
The Mystery of the Gold Datejust
When we talk about the In the Mood for Love watch, we are usually talking about the Rolex Datejust 1601. Or maybe the 1603. There’s actually a bit of a debate among collectors about the exact reference number used on set.
Wong Kar-wai is notorious for his perfectionism. He’ll shoot for fifteen months and then throw away half the footage. Because of this, the continuity in his films can be... let's say "fluid." However, the watch Leung wears is clearly a yellow gold (or gold-capped) Datejust on a leather strap. It has that classic fluted bezel that catches the dim, moody lighting of the film’s interiors.
Why does this matter? Because in 1962—the year the film is set—a Rolex Datejust was the ultimate symbol of a certain kind of middle-class aspiration. Chow Mo-wan is a journalist. He’s refined, he’s literate, but he’s not wealthy. The watch suggests a man who cares about quality, someone who bought one good thing and intended to keep it for life. It’s the antithesis of the "disposable" culture we live in now.
Why the Leather Strap Changes Everything
Most people associate the Datejust with the metal Jubilee bracelet. It’s iconic. It’s flashy. But in the movie, the In the Mood for Love watch is worn on a dark, slim leather strap.
This was a deliberate choice.
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A metal bracelet screams "nouveau riche" or "business executive." A leather strap? That’s intellectual. It’s understated. It allows the watch to tuck neatly under the cuff of Leung’s impeccably tailored white shirts. If you’re trying to recreate this look, the strap is actually more important than the brand. You want something thin—no heavy padding—in a dark chocolate or black calfskin. It makes the gold pop without looking like you're trying too hard.
Horological Accuracy in 1960s Hong Kong
One thing Wong Kar-wai gets absolutely right is the "feel" of time. The film is obsessed with it. We see clocks on the walls of the office, we see the ticking of the In the Mood for Love watch, and we see the repetitive nature of the characters' lives.
Back in the sixties, Hong Kong was a hub for Swiss watches. It was a duty-free port, and the obsession with status symbols was already deeply baked into the culture. A man in Chow’s position wouldn't have owned five watches. He would have owned one. This Rolex was his companion through his move to Singapore and his eventual return.
If you look closely at the dial during the scenes in the newspaper office, you’ll notice it’s a "pie-pan" dial. This is a hallmark of vintage Datejusts from that era, where the edge of the dial slopes downward, creating a 3D effect. It adds a level of texture that modern, flat dials just can't replicate. It’s these tiny, tactile details that make the movie feel so lived-in.
The Influence on Modern Style
You can’t talk about this watch without talking about the "Wong Kar-wai Aesthetic." Since the film’s release, there has been a massive resurgence in people seeking out vintage 36mm watches.
For a long time, the trend was "bigger is better." Everyone wanted 44mm Panerais or massive dive watches. But the In the Mood for Love watch proved that a smaller, 36mm timepiece is actually more masculine because it doesn't need to shout. It fits the wrist. It’s balanced.
Designers like Todd Snyder and brands like Cartier have leaned heavily into this "vintage melancholy" look recently. They’re selling a vibe: the lonely intellectual, the smoke-filled room, the yearning. It all starts with that gold watch peeking out from a sleeve.
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How to Get the Look Without a Movie Star Budget
Let’s be real. A vintage gold Rolex Datejust in good condition is going to set you back anywhere from $4,000 to $9,000 depending on the specific reference and the gold content. If you have the cash, it’s a great investment. But what if you just want the "In the Mood for Love" energy?
You have options.
- The Vintage Seiko Route: Look for a Seiko "Lord Matic" from the late 60s. Many of them have that same sharp, angular case design and linen dials that look incredibly similar to the Rolex.
- The Omega Constellation: A vintage "C-Shape" Constellation designed by Gérald Genta offers that same 1960s executive vibe.
- Modern Microbrands: Companies like Lorier or Baltic are making watches that are specifically designed to look like they were pulled out of a 1962 Hong Kong pawn shop.
The key is the size. Do not go over 38mm. If you buy a 42mm gold watch, you aren't Tony Leung; you're a guy at a strip mall. The magic of the In the Mood for Love watch is its restraint.
The Watch as a Metaphor for Missed Connections
There is a scene where Chow Mo-wan is waiting in a hotel room—Room 2046. He’s looking at his watch. The lighting is green and moody. The seconds are literally slipping away as he waits for a woman who may or may not show up.
In this context, the watch isn't a tool for telling time; it’s a tool for measuring loss.
Every time you see a close-up of the In the Mood for Love watch, the movie is reminding you that these characters are trapped in their own circumstances. The watch is a circle, much like the repetitive cycle of their "rehearsals" where they pretend to confront their cheating spouses. They are stuck in time.
It’s interesting to note that Tony Leung is a real-life watch enthusiast. He’s been spotted wearing various high-end pieces over the years, but he’s gone on record saying that the costumes in Wong Kar-wai’s films—the suits and the watches—are what help him find the character. Once he puts on that Datejust, he isn't a modern actor anymore. He’s a man from 1962.
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Is it Really a Rolex?
Technically, the production has never released a "spec sheet" for the props. But watch historians have spent hours zooming into 4K restorations of the film. The consensus is overwhelmingly in favor of the Datejust 1601. The distinct "jingle" of the bracelet (in the few scenes where it might be on a bracelet) and the specific shape of the cyclops lens over the date window are dead giveaways.
There's a rumor that it was actually Leung’s personal watch, or perhaps a piece from Wong Kar-wai’s own collection. The director is known for using his own belongings to populate the sets to ensure authenticity. Whether it’s a prop or a personal heirloom, it’s become the most famous "uncredited" actor in cinema.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you’re serious about finding your own In the Mood for Love watch, don't just jump on eBay and buy the first gold watch you see.
- Check the lug width. Most vintage Datejusts are 20mm. This is great because it means you can swap between a hundred different leather straps to get the mood just right.
- Avoid "Over-Polished" Cases. You want the edges of the watch to be sharp. If the lugs look rounded and soft, it means someone took a buffing wheel to it too many times. A watch with character should have a few scratches. It should look like it’s lived a life.
- Focus on the Dial. Look for a "T-Swiss-T" marking at the bottom. This indicates the use of tritium, which develops a beautiful creamy patina over time. This is what gives the watch that "warm" glow you see on screen.
The Enduring Legacy of the 2046 Aesthetic
The movie ends at Angkor Wat, where Chow whispers his secret into a hole in the wall and plugs it with mud. Time has finally moved on. The 1960s are over. The world has changed.
But the watch? The watch is timeless.
That’s the irony of horology. We use these machines to track something that is fleeting, yet the machines themselves can last centuries if they're cared for. The In the Mood for Love watch remains a touchstone for anyone who believes that getting dressed is a form of poetry. It’s not about telling the time; it’s about how you feel while the time is passing.
If you want to embody this look, start by ignoring the trends. Look for something small, something gold, and something that looks better the more you wear it. Find a tailor who understands how a shirt cuff should hit the wrist. And maybe, occasionally, go get some noodles at 11:00 PM in the rain.
How to Authenticate a Vintage Datejust
- Verify the serial number between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position.
- Check the reference number between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position (should be 1601 for that fluted bezel look).
- Listen to the movement. A genuine 1570 caliber movement has a specific "heartbeat" that a watchmaker can verify instantly.
- Examine the "Cyclops." The date magnifier should provide 2.5x magnification. If the numbers look small, it’s a fake or a replacement crystal.