You’ve seen it in old movies. Maybe on a Shriner in a parade or a street performer’s monkey in a cartoon. It’s the tiny cylinder shaped head covering that looks like a truncated cone—the fez. Most people think it’s just a quirky accessory for a lodge meeting, but it actually carries a massive weight of history, rebellion, and cultural identity.
It's weird.
For something so simple—a brimless felt hat, usually red, often with a tassel—it has been at the center of literal revolutions. It isn't just a hat. It’s a statement.
Where did the tiny cylinder shaped head covering actually come from?
Origins are messy. Historians like to argue about this. Some say it’s ancient Greek. Others swear it’s Moroccan. The name "fez" comes from the Moroccan city of Fez, which was once the world’s primary producer of the red berry dye used to color the felt. If you wanted the good stuff, you went to Morocco.
But the fez we recognize today really took off in the early 1800s.
Sultan Mahmoud II of the Ottoman Empire was trying to modernize his military. The old turbans were a mess. They were bulky. They got in the way during prayer because the brim (if they had one) would hit the floor when someone knelt. So, in 1829, he basically mandated the fez. It was sleek. It was "modern" for the time. It worked for everyone, regardless of social class.
Suddenly, the tiny cylinder shaped head covering was the uniform of an empire.
The Tassel Matters
The tassel isn't just for decoration. Historically, the length and weight of the silk tassel indicated status. A long, heavy tassel that swayed when you walked was a flex. It showed you weren't just a commoner; you were someone of standing. In some regions, the way you tilted your fez or the direction the tassel hung could signal your political leanings or even your marital status. It’s like a 19th-century status update you wore on your skull.
The great fez ban of 1925
Imagine a government making a hat illegal. That actually happened.
When Mustafa Kemal Atatürk founded the Republic of Turkey, he viewed the fez as a symbol of the "old ways" and the religious past he wanted to move away from. He wanted Turkey to look Western. To him, the tiny cylinder shaped head covering was an obstacle to progress.
In 1925, he passed the "Hat Law." He literally banned the fez.
People were arrested. Some were even executed for refusing to take it off. Atatürk forced men to wear Western-style fedoras and Panama hats instead. It sounds absurd now—policing headwear to that extreme—but it shows how much power a small piece of felt can hold. The fez went from being the symbol of the modern Ottoman to being the symbol of the backwards "traditionalist" in the blink of an eye.
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Why Shriners wear them in the West
If you live in the U.S., your only interaction with this hat is probably through the Shriners.
The Ancient Arabic Order of the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine (the Shriners) adopted the fez in the 1870s. Why? Honestly, it was because of a vibe. The founders, Walter M. Fleming and William J. Florence, were looking for a theme for their new fraternity. They were inspired by the "exotic" Middle East during their travels.
The red fez became their calling card.
Inside the Shrine, the fez is sacred. It's only worn during official functions. Each one is often heavy with embroidery, showing the name of the local "temple" or "shrine" the member belongs to. It’s a symbol of brotherhood and their massive philanthropic work, especially their children’s hospitals. When you see a guy in a parade driving a tiny car wearing a tiny cylinder shaped head covering, you’re looking at a tradition that’s over 150 years old.
How it’s made (It’s not just felt)
A real fez is a marvel of wool engineering.
- You start with raw wool.
- It gets felted down using hot water and pressure until it’s incredibly dense.
- It’s molded over a wooden block to get that specific cylindrical shape.
- It’s dyed. Traditional red comes from kermes or madder, though synthetic dyes took over a century ago.
If you buy a cheap one at a costume shop, it's thin polyester. A real one? It’s stiff. It has weight. It’s designed to last a lifetime. In places like Tunisia or Morocco, master "chechia" (a similar felt cap) makers still use techniques that haven't changed in generations. They use teasels—a prickly plant—to brush the wool and give it that perfect fuzzy finish.
Pop culture and the "Doctor Who" effect
The fez has a weird way of popping up in media.
Tommy Cooper, the legendary British magician, made the fez his trademark. It added to his bumbling, chaotic stage persona. Then you have Doctor Who. In 2010, Matt Smith’s Doctor put one on and declared, "I wear a fez now. Fezzes are cool."
Sales spiked.
Suddenly, a new generation of teenagers was buying a tiny cylinder shaped head covering because a time traveler told them to. It’s the ultimate proof that fashion is cyclical and totally dependent on who is wearing it.
Getting the look right without looking like a costume
If you’re actually going to wear one—maybe for a specific cultural event or a very bold fashion choice—there are rules.
Don't treat it like a baseball cap. It shouldn't be pulled down over your ears. It sits on the top of the head, often slightly tilted. And for the love of everything, keep the tassel in check. A messy tassel makes the whole outfit look cheap.
The fez isn't "dead" fashion. In North Africa, it’s still worn with a djellaba for weddings and religious holidays. It represents a link to a very deep, very complex history that predates modern borders.
Actionable steps for the curious
If you’re looking to buy a high-quality fez or just want to explore the history further, here is how to avoid the "costume" trap.
- Check the material. Avoid "100% Polyester" if you want authenticity. Look for 100% wool felt. It breathes better and holds its shape.
- Know your sizes. Fezzes are measured in centimeters around the crown. Don't guess. Use a soft measuring tape just above your ears.
- Visit a traditional millinery. If you are ever in Istanbul or Tunis, seek out the traditional markets. A handmade wool cap from a master craftsman is a world away from a party store prop.
- Respect the context. Remember that in many cultures, this isn't a "funny hat." It’s a formal garment equivalent to a suit and tie. Wearing it to a dive bar might not land the way you think it will.
The tiny cylinder shaped head covering has survived bans, revolutions, and being turned into a meme. It’s a resilient little object. Whether it’s a symbol of Ottoman reform or a badge of a charitable fraternity, the fez remains one of the most recognizable silhouettes in the history of human clothing.
Expert Tip: If your wool fez gets dusty, don't throw it in the wash. Use a soft-bristled clothes brush and work in small, circular motions. For stubborn stains, a damp cloth with a tiny bit of mild wool detergent is all you need. Keep it on a head-shaped form or stuffed with tissue paper to ensure the cylinder doesn't collapse over time.