If you’ve ever tried to cut a hole for an electrical box using a manual keyhole saw, you know the struggle. Your arm gets tired. The drywall tears. Maybe you accidentally hit a wire because you were sawing blindly into a dark wall cavity. It’s messy. Honestly, it’s just inefficient. That’s exactly why the DeWalt drywall cut out tool exists, and if you talk to any professional taper or electrician, they’ll tell you it’s a total game-changer for speed.
But here is the thing.
Most people buy these tools and then immediately break a dozen bits because they don't understand how the physics of a 26,000 RPM motor actually works against a piece of gypsum. It isn't a drill. It isn't a jigsaw. It is its own beast.
The Reality of the DCS551 vs. The Newer Models
DeWalt has a few versions of this tool, but the most common one you see on job sites is the 20V MAX* Cordless Drywall Cut-Out Tool (DCS551). It’s basically a high-speed rotary motor in a slim housing. You’ve got a tool-less bit change, which sounds like a small detail until you’re on a ladder and don’t want to hunt for a wrench. It saves time. A lot of it.
The motor spins fast. Really fast. We are talking about a no-load speed of 26,000 RPM. When you’re moving that fast, the bit doesn't really "cut" the drywall in the traditional sense; it essentially pulverizes it into a fine mist. This brings up the biggest downside of using a DeWalt drywall cut out tool: the dust. It is everywhere. If you aren't wearing a mask, you're breathing in a cloud of white powder that stays in your lungs for days.
Professional installers like those at Drywall Nation often point out that while the tool is powerful, it requires a delicate touch. If you push too hard, the bit snaps. If you go too slow, you scorch the paper. It’s a balance.
Why Cordless is the Only Way to Go
Back in the day, these were all corded. You’d be dragging a 50-foot extension cord across a room, tripping over it while trying to navigate around a kitchen island. The move to the 20V MAX* platform changed the workflow entirely. You can zip through an entire house’s worth of outlets on a single 2.0Ah battery because the tool isn't under a massive load. It’s just spinning.
Understanding the "Guide Point" Secret
The biggest mistake DIYers make is using the wrong bit. Most DeWalt drywall cut out tool kits come with "guide point" bits. These are clever. The very tip of the bit is smooth and rounded. It doesn't have cutting flutes on the end.
Why?
So you can plunge the tool into the center of where an electrical box is hidden behind the sheet, move the tool until you hit the side of the plastic or metal box, and then "ride" the outside of the box. The smooth tip follows the contour of the box without cutting through it. If you use a standard spiral bit, you’ll chew right through the electrical box, and now you’ve got a massive electrical code violation on your hands.
Handling the Vibration and Noise
Let’s be real: this tool is loud. It screams.
Because it’s a high-RPM brushed or brushless motor (depending on the specific SKU like the DCS551 vs the newer Atomic series), the frequency is piercing. You want ear protection. Beyond the noise, the slim body design of the DeWalt is actually one of its better ergonomic features. It fits in the hand like a large marker. This matters when you’re cutting out 40 pot lights in a ceiling and your neck is already killing you.
- Weight: It’s light enough to use one-handed, though two hands give you way better control.
- The Light: It has an LED. It’s okay. It’s not a floodlight, but it helps when you’re working in a house that doesn't have the power turned on yet.
- Depth Adjustment: The guide is adjustable. This is crucial. You only want the bit protruding about 1/8th of an inch past the thickness of the drywall. Any deeper and you’re begging to hit a stud or a wire.
The Brushless Upgrade (DCS555)
If you're looking at the newer Atomic 20V MAX* Brushless version (DCS555), you’re getting a more efficient motor. It’s shorter. It’s narrower. It also has a slightly higher RPM at around 26,000, but the real benefit is the runtime. Brushless motors don't get as hot. If you're a pro doing this eight hours a day, the DCS555 is the obvious choice. If you're just fixing a patch in your basement, the older brushed model is perfectly fine and usually $40 cheaper.
Common Failures and How to Avoid Them
The most common "broken" tool return for the DeWalt drywall cut out tool isn't actually a broken tool. It’s a clogged switch. Because this tool creates a literal dust storm, that fine white powder gets into every crevice. Eventually, the power switch gets crunchy. Then it sticks. Then it won't turn on at all.
Blow it out.
Every time you finish a room, take a can of compressed air or your compressor hose and blast the switch and the motor vents. It takes five seconds. It adds years to the tool's life.
Another issue is the collet. People over-tighten them. The tool-less chuck is great, but if you crank on it or get drywall mud inside the mechanism, it’ll seize up. Keep it clean. It’s a precision instrument masquerading as a construction tool.
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Technical Specs and Practical Usage
| Feature | Specification (DCS551) |
|---|---|
| Voltage | 20V MAX* |
| No Load Speed | 26,000 RPM |
| Collet Diameter | 1/4", 1/8" |
| Tool Length | 10-1/8 inches |
| Weight | 2.2 lbs (Tool Only) |
Don't just look at the numbers, though. Think about the application. If you're cutting cement board for a shower, this tool can do it, but you need a carbide bit. The standard steel bits will dull in about four inches of cutting Duracker. You’ll see smoke, and then the bit will just turn red and melt. Know your materials.
The Dust Shroud Debate
DeWalt sells a dust shroud for these. Does it work? Sorta. It connects to a vacuum. It definitely reduces the mess, but it also makes the tool much bulkier and harder to see your cut line. Most pros skip it and just have a helper hold a shop-vac nozzle near the cut, or they just accept that they’re going to be covered in white dust by lunch.
Improving Your Cut Accuracy
To get a clean finish with your DeWalt drywall cut out tool, always cut in a clockwise direction when you’re cutting out a hole (like for a window or a door) and counter-clockwise when you're cutting around an object (like an electrical box). This has to do with the "climb cut" of the spinning bit. If you go the wrong way, the tool will want to "run" away from the line, and you’ll end up with a jagged, ugly edge that the taper will hate you for.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Project
If you just picked up a DeWalt drywall cut out tool, here is how to actually use it without ruining your wall.
First, check your depth. Set the guide so the bit only clears the drywall by a tiny bit. This is your insurance policy against cutting a wire. Second, always start your plunge in the middle of the area to be removed. Never start on the edge. You want to find the "lip" of the box or the stud first.
Third, buy bits in bulk. You will break them. It’s just part of the process. The 50-packs are significantly cheaper than buying the 2-packs at the checkout counter.
Finally, practice on a scrap piece of rock. Get a feel for the torque. The tool wants to pull to the side. You need to learn how to resist that pull to keep your lines straight. Once you master the "pull," you'll be able to cut out a double-gang box in about six seconds flat. It's satisfying. It’s fast. And honestly, it makes the worst part of drywalling actually kind of fun.
Check your battery levels before starting a long run. A dying battery will slow the RPMs, and instead of cutting, the bit will start to tear the paper backing, leaving you with a fuzzy edge that’s a pain to sand down. Keep the RPMs high and the pressure light. Let the tool do the work. That's the secret. Move the tool with your whole arm, not just your wrist, to maintain a steady path. This prevents the "wobble" that often happens when you hit a denser patch of gypsum or a corner.
Clean the collet regularly with a small brush to ensure the bits sit perfectly centered. A slightly off-center bit creates vibration, which leads to fatigue and snapped bits. If you notice the tool vibrating more than usual, stop immediately and reset the bit. Usually, it's just slipped a fraction of an inch. Tighten it back up and you're good to go.
Make sure you're using the right collet size for the bit you bought. Most DeWalt kits include both 1/8" and 1/4" collets. Using a 1/8" bit in a 1/4" collet—even if you think you tightened it enough—is a recipe for a projectile bit. Double-check your sizes every time. Safety isn't just about goggles; it's about making sure the tool doesn't disassemble itself at 26,000 RPM. High-speed rotation means high-speed consequences if something goes wrong. Use common sense, keep a firm grip, and you'll find this is the most used tool in your drywall arsenal.