You’ve been there. Dragging 50 feet of tangled orange extension cord across a muddy job site just to make one rip cut. It sucks. For years, the "cordless revolution" was mostly marketing fluff because battery saws would bog down the second they hit a knot in a pressure-treated 2x10. But things changed. Specifically, the DeWalt 20V XR circular saw (the DCS570 is the workhorse most people mean) changed the math for a lot of us.
It’s not just about losing the cord. It’s about the brushless motor.
Brushless tech is basically magic for power tools. It monitors the load. If you’re pushing through dense white oak, the saw senses the resistance and adjusts. No sparks, less heat, more runtime. Honestly, if you’re still using a brushed motor saw in 2026, you’re just making life harder for yourself.
What the DeWalt 20V XR Circular Saw Gets Right (and Wrong)
Most people look at the 5,500 RPM sticker and think that’s the whole story. It’s not. It’s the torque. I’ve seen guys try to use the standard 20V Max (non-XR) version, and while it’s fine for trim, it chokes on wet lumber. The XR—which stands for Extreme Runtime—is the one you actually want if you’re framing or building a deck.
One thing that’s kinda annoying? The blade is on the right side. If you grew up using a worm-drive saw, this feels backwards. You have to lean over the tool to see your cut line if you’re right-handed. It’s a classic sidewinder design. DeWalt does make a left-blade version (the DCS577), but that’s a 60V FlexVolt beast. This 20V XR is the middle-ground king.
It weighs about 7.5 pounds without the battery. Add a 5.0Ah or 6.0Ah pack, and you’re pushing 9 pounds. It feels substantial. Not heavy, but solid. You want that weight. A saw that’s too light feels jumpy and dangerous when it hits a hard grain.
The Depth and Bevel Game
Let’s talk numbers because they actually matter here. You get a 2-9/16 inch depth of cut at 90 degrees. That’s enough to clear a 2x4 in one pass with room to spare.
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The bevel capacity goes up to 57 degrees. Most cheap saws stop at 45. That extra 12 degrees is a lifesaver when you’re cutting weird rafters or decorative siding. The detents at 22.5 and 45 are crisp. You can feel them click into place, which is better than squinting at a tiny stamped metal scale while the sun is in your eyes.
Real World Power: The FlexVolt Advantage
Here is something DeWalt won't always shout from the rooftops: the 20V XR saw performs significantly better if you slap a FlexVolt battery on it. Yes, the saw is rated for 20V. But those 60V FlexVolt batteries are backwards compatible.
Why bother? Amperage.
Think of voltage like the size of a water pipe and amperage like the pressure. A 20V 2.0Ah battery is like a trickling faucet. It'll run the saw, but the second you hit a knot, the "pressure" drops and the saw stalls. A 9.0Ah FlexVolt battery provides massive current overhead. The saw doesn't just run longer; it actually feels "stronger" because the voltage doesn't sag under load.
Dust Management is... Okay
Nobody buys a circular saw for its dust collection. It's a messy tool. However, the DCS570 has a dust blower that actually works. It clears the line of sight right in front of the blade. It’s a simple fan-shroud design, but it saves you from constantly blowing sawdust off your pencil marks like a crazy person.
There is an optional dust port attachment. It’s fine. If you’re working inside a finished house, you can hook it up to a Vac, but honestly, the hose makes the saw feel clunky. Just cut outside if you can.
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Durability and the "Plastic" Myth
I’ve heard people complain that modern DeWalt tools have too much plastic. "My dad's 1970s Black & Decker was all steel!" Yeah, and it weighed 20 pounds and would electrocute you if it rained.
The high-grade glass-filled nylon DeWalt uses is legit. I’ve seen these saws tumble off a tailgate onto concrete. Usually, the base plate (the "shoe") is what takes the hit. On the XR, it’s a high-grade aluminum. It’s flat. It stays flat. If you drop a saw and the shoe bends even a fraction of a millimeter, that saw is garbage for precision work. You’ll be fighting the fence for the rest of your life.
The Electric Brake
This is a safety feature that also happens to be a massive time-saver. When you let go of the trigger, the blade stops almost instantly. Old saws would coast for ten seconds. That’s ten seconds you have to wait before setting the saw down on the floor or a finished piece of wood. With the electric brake, you’re on to the next measurement immediately. It uses the motor's magnets to create counter-electromotive force. Science is cool.
Maintenance Secrets for Longevity
Don't just throw this in a damp toolbox and forget about it.
- Blow out the motor: Every few weeks, take a compressor and blow air through the vents. Fine sawdust gets into the electronics and acts like insulation, causing the motor to run hot.
- Check the shoe: Take a square to the baseplate. Ensure the 90-degree stop is actually 90 degrees. Vibration can sometimes knock the adjustment screw loose over a year of heavy use.
- Blade Choice: The stock blade DeWalt gives you is "meh." It’s a general-purpose 24-tooth blade. If you want this saw to feel like a premium tool, buy a Freud Diablo blade. It’s thinner (thin kerf), which means the motor has to remove less wood, which means your battery lasts 20% longer. It's the cheapest upgrade you can make.
Is It Worth the Upgrade?
If you are currently using the brushed 20V DeWalt (the one with the stamped steel shoe), the answer is yes. The difference in cutting speed is noticeable the moment you pull the trigger.
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If you're a homeowner just cutting a 2x4 once every six months? Honestly, stay with what you have. But if you're building a shed, framing a basement, or doing anything involving "engineered lumber" like LVLs, the DeWalt 20v XR circular saw is basically the industry standard for a reason. It's reliable. It's everywhere. Parts are easy to find.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your batteries: Ensure you have at least 5.0Ah packs. Don't try to run this saw on the tiny 1.5Ah or 2.0Ah batteries that come with the drill kits; you'll overheat the cells.
- Verify the model: Look for the "XR" logo on the side. If it doesn't have it, it’s the base model with a brushed motor.
- Upgrade the blade: Toss the factory blade and grab a 7-1/4 inch thin-kerf carbide blade for smoother, faster rips.
- Register the tool: DeWalt has a decent 3-year limited warranty, but they are sticklers for proof of purchase. Take a photo of your receipt now before the ink fades.