People usually think of the Jordan 12 and immediately picture the "Taxi" or the "Flu Game" black and red. Those are the icons. But if you were around the sneaker scene in late 2016, you remember when Jordan Brand decided to ditch the traditional leather for something way more tactile. I’m talking about the blue Jordan 12 suede, officially known as the "Deep Royal Blue" colorway. It wasn't just another release. It was a statement.
The mid-2010s were a weird, experimental time for the Jumpman. We were seeing a shift toward "Premium" and "Pinnacle" iterations that cost a fortune. Then, this Royal Blue pair dropped. It didn't have the $400 price tag of the Pinnacle line, but it looked like it did.
The Texture That Changed the 12
Most 12s are tanks. They’re built with that thick, tumbled leather that can take a beating on a basketball court or a rainy sidewalk. This pair? Not so much. The blue Jordan 12 suede swapped out that rugged utility for a buttery, nappy suede that covered the entire upper. It’s a monocromatic nightmare for anyone who lives in a city with frequent rain, but man, does it look sharp under the right lights.
It’s deep. It’s loud.
The color isn't just blue; it’s a saturated, regal hue that feels more like a piece of luxury luggage than a basketball shoe. Even the lizard-textured overlay—usually a contrasting white or black—was dipped in that same Royal Blue. It created this seamless, monolithic aesthetic that was honestly pretty polarizing at the time. Some collectors called it "Blueberry" 12s. Others thought it looked like a glorified house slipper. But once people got them in hand, the narrative shifted.
Materials and the "Quality" Trap
Let's talk about the suede. You've probably heard the term "dead suede." That’s the cheap stuff that feels like cardboard. The blue Jordan 12 suede actually used a decent cut. If you run your finger across it, you can see the "stroke"—that slight color change as the fibers move. That’s the hallmark of a suede that isn't just a synthetic blend.
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However, there’s a catch.
Suede on a silhouette as bulky as the 12 creates a massive surface area for dust and scuffs. Unlike leather, you can't just wipe these down with a damp cloth. If you spill a drink on these at a party, it’s basically game over unless you’re a wizard with a brass brush and a suede eraser. This is why you see so many "Pre-owned" pairs on eBay or GOAT that look dusty or faded; the material attracts everything.
Small Details That Mattered
- The metallic eyelets: They chose a matte-finished blue for the top lace loops, which kept the "all-blue" theme going without looking tacky.
- The heel tab: You still get the classic "Jordan" and "Quality Inspired by the Greatest Player Ever" text, but it's stitched in a slightly brighter blue for just a hint of contrast.
- Carbon fiber: The shank plate under the arch features a mix of black and blue, which is a nice touch you only see if you're looking at the outsole.
Why 2016 Was the Perfect Year for This Drop
If you look at the 2016 release calendar, Jordan Brand was firing on all cylinders. We had the "Space Jam" 11s returning. We had the "Banned" 1s. The blue Jordan 12 suede acted as a bridge between the hardcore performance retros and the lifestyle "fashion" sneakers that were starting to dominate Instagram.
At the time, the "Monochrome" trend was peaking. Kanye was doing all-tan and all-grey with Yeezy Season. Brands were realizing that people wanted sneakers that could be worn with a topcoat or a tailored pair of chinos, not just baggy basketball shorts. The Deep Royal 12 fit that vibe perfectly. It was a "grown-up" Jordan.
Real Talk: The Comfort Factor
One thing nobody tells you about suede 12s compared to leather ones is the break-in period. Or lack thereof.
Leather 12s can be stiff. They’re heavy. They’ve got full-length Zoom Air, which is amazing, but the upper takes a few wears to stop digging into your ankles. Because the blue Jordan 12 suede is made of softer material, it feels "broken in" almost immediately. It’s more forgiving on the foot. You still get that bouncy, responsive feel from the Zoom Air unit, which, honestly, is still one of the best cushioning setups Nike has ever made.
But don't play ball in them. Please.
The support isn't the same as the leather pairs. Suede stretches. If you’re doing hard lateral cuts on a court, you’re going to feel your foot sliding over the footbed more than you would in a pair of "Playoffs." These are strictly for the streets.
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Market Value and the "Resale" Reality
When these dropped on November 12, 2016, the retail price was $190. For a long time, you could find them sitting on shelves in some cities. They weren't an instant sell-out like a Jordan 1.
Today? It's a different story.
Finding a deadstock (brand new) pair of the blue Jordan 12 suede is getting harder. Because suede ages poorly if not stored in a climate-controlled environment, "icy" pairs are rare. On the secondary market, prices usually hover between $250 and $400 depending on the size.
Interestingly, they haven't seen a massive "hype" spike like some other 12s. They've remained a "sleeper" pick—the kind of shoe that sneakerheads recognize and respect without it being overplayed. It’s a "if you know, you know" kind of shoe.
How to Tell if Yours Are Real or Fake
Since these are nearly a decade old, the "fakes" from that era were actually pretty good. But there are giveaways.
- The Jumpman on the side: On authentic pairs, the plastic "Jumpman" tab on the midfoot should be a very specific shade of blue that matches the suede. Many fakes have a tab that looks too "purply" or glossy.
- The Suede Movement: If the suede looks flat and doesn't change color when you rub it, it’s likely a knockoff or a very low-quality "B-grade."
- The Box Label: Check the font. Real Jordan boxes from 2016 have a very specific, crisp typeface. If the "Deep Royal Blue" text looks blurry or off-center, walk away.
Proper Maintenance (The Actionable Part)
If you actually own a pair or are looking to buy one, you need a plan. You can't treat these like your beat-up Vans.
First, get a dedicated water and stain repellent. Brands like Reshoevn8r or Jason Markk make sprays specifically for suede. Do two light coats. Don't drench them.
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Second, get a suede brush. After every wear, give them a quick brush to get the dust out of the fibers. This prevents that "ashy" look that kills the vibrancy of the Royal Blue.
Third, avoid denim bleed. This is the silent killer of the blue Jordan 12 suede. If you wear raw indigo denim with these, the blue from your jeans will rub onto the blue suede, but they won't be the same blue. It’ll create a dark, messy stain around the collar that is almost impossible to remove. Pin-roll your jeans or wear joggers.
The Cultural Footprint
You didn't see these on a lot of NBA players because of the material, but they lived in the hip-hop scene. They were the "club" Jordan. They look better under neon lights than they do on a sunny playground.
The 12 silhouette itself is inspired by the Japanese "Rising Sun" flag (the Nisshoki). The stitched lines radiating out from the center are meant to mimic sun rays. In the Royal Blue suede, those lines create deep shadows and highlights that you just don't get on the white leather pairs. It emphasizes the architecture of the shoe.
Final Verdict on the Deep Royal 12
Is it the best Jordan 12 ever? Probably not. That title belongs to the "Flu Game" or the "White/Red" OG.
Is it the most unique? It’s definitely up there.
The blue Jordan 12 suede represents a moment where Jordan Brand took a risk on luxury materials for a performance silhouette. It’s a shoe for people who value aesthetics over "on-court" history. It’s bold, it’s difficult to clean, and it’s unapologetically blue.
If you're hunting for a pair now, focus on the condition of the suede above all else. A scuffed heel or a "balding" toe box on these is a dealbreaker. But if you find a clean pair? You’ve got one of the most underrated lifestyle retros of the last ten years.
To keep your pair in top shape, always store them with shoe trees to maintain that bulky 12 shape, and never, ever put them in a washing machine. Suede and water are enemies; keep them separated, and these will stay a centerpiece of your rotation for years.