The Chicago World’s Fair of 1893: What Most People Get Wrong About the White City

The Chicago World’s Fair of 1893: What Most People Get Wrong About the White City

It’s easy to look at old sepia-toned photos of the Chicago World’s Fair and think it was just a big, fancy party for Victorian elites. Honestly? It was more like a chaotic, high-stakes collision between the 19th century and a future nobody was quite ready for. People called it the "White City" because of the gleaming plaster facades, but the reality was a mix of architectural genius, cutthroat business rivalries, and a fair amount of literal mud.

Walking through Jackson Park today, you’d hardly know that in 1893, this place was the center of the known universe. Over 27 million people visited. Think about that for a second. At a time when the total U.S. population was only around 65 million, nearly half the country—or at least a number equal to half the country—descended on Chicago. They didn't have TikTok or VR. They had 600 acres of "magic" built on a swamp.

Why the World’s Fair in Chicago still matters more than you think

If you’ve ever eaten a brownie or used a zipper, you’re basically living in the shadow of the Chicago World’s Fair. It wasn’t just about looking at pretty buildings designed by Daniel Burnham and Frederick Law Olmsted. It was a massive product launch for the modern world.

The "War of Currents" essentially ended here. Nikola Tesla and George Westinghouse won the contract to light the fair using alternating current (AC), beating out Thomas Edison’s direct current (DC) proposal. Imagine standing there in the dark and suddenly seeing 100,000 incandescent lamps flicker to life at once. It changed everything. People went home and demanded their cities be wired for AC power.

But it wasn't all high-minded science. The Midway Plaisance was where the real "entertainment" happened. This was a strip of land separate from the dignified White City where things got weird. You had the world’s first Ferris Wheel, built by George Washington Gale Ferris Jr. to "out-Eiffel" the French. It was a monster of a machine, holding 2,160 people at once.

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The dark side of the dream

We have to talk about H.H. Holmes. You’ve probably heard of the "Devil in the White City," but the truth is a bit more complicated than the legends. While Erik Larson’s book is a masterpiece, historians like Adam Selzer have pointed out that many of the more lurid details—like the "murder castle" having trap doors and vats of acid in every room—might have been exaggerated by yellow journalism of the era. Holmes was a prolific fraudster and a murderer, definitely, but he wasn't a supernatural boogeyman stalking the fairgrounds. He was a product of the same frantic, unregulated energy that built the fair itself.

Then there’s the issue of the "living exhibits."

It’s uncomfortable to acknowledge, but the fair was deeply racist. While the White City celebrated "civilization," the Midway featured "anthropological" villages where people from around the globe were essentially put on display as curiosities. Frederick Douglass and Ida B. Wells famously protested the exclusion of African Americans from the fair’s official exhibits. They handed out a pamphlet titled The Reason Why the Colored American Is Not in the World's Columbian Exposition. It was a sharp, necessary rebuke to the idea that the fair represented "all" of humanity.

Surprising facts about the 1893 World's Fair in Chicago

Most people know about the Ferris Wheel, but the sheer scale of the temporary infrastructure is what’s truly wild.

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  • Pabst Blue Ribbon: It didn't actually win a blue ribbon at the fair, despite what the marketing has claimed for over a century. It won a certificate, and the brewery just started tying blue ribbons around the bottles themselves. It worked.
  • The Pledge of Allegiance: It was written for the fair’s dedication ceremonies to help "Americanize" the massive influx of immigrants.
  • Juicy Fruit and Cracker Jack: Both made their big debuts here. People were literally losing their minds over chewing gum.
  • The Buildings were fake: Almost all of them were made of "staff"—a mixture of plaster of Paris and hemp fiber. They were never meant to last. They were stage sets.

Chicago was a gritty, industrial city that had burned to the ground only 22 years prior. The 1893 World's Fair in Chicago was a massive PR stunt to prove to the world—and specifically to New York City—that Chicago was a world-class metropolis. It worked, but at a cost. The city went into a massive economic slump almost immediately after the fair ended, exacerbated by the Panic of 1893.

The architectural legacy left behind

While most of the White City burned down in fires following the fair (which, honestly, was probably safer than letting those plaster buildings rot), one major structure remains: the Palace of Fine Arts. You know it today as the Museum of Science and Industry (MSI).

It was built with a brick substructure unlike the other buildings because it housed priceless art that needed protection from fire. Today, it stands as a ghostly reminder of what the rest of the fairgrounds looked like. If you walk through it, you can still feel that scale. It’s massive. It’s imposing. It’s a bit arrogant. That was Chicago in the 1890s.

The fair also gave birth to the "City Beautiful" movement. It convinced urban planners that cities didn't have to be cramped, dark, and dirty. They could have parks! They could have boulevards! Of course, this often led to the displacement of poor residents in favor of grand monuments, but that’s the duality of the era.

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Mapping the experience

If you were a visitor in 1893, you probably arrived by train at the massive terminal built right on the grounds. You’d step out and see the Court of Honor, the "Grand Basin" of water, and the massive statue of the Republic covered in gold leaf.

You’d be overwhelmed.

You would see the first moving sidewalk. You would see a giant map of the United States made of pickles (thanks, Heinz). You’d see the "Great Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building," which was so big you could fit the entire Russian army inside of it at the time. No joke. It was the largest building in the world by floor space for a brief moment.

How to explore the history of the World's Fair in Chicago today

You can't go back in time, but you can see the scars and the beauty left behind. History isn't just in books; it's in the soil of Jackson Park.

  1. Visit the Museum of Science and Industry: This is a non-negotiable. It is the only major building left. Stand on the north side by the lagoon and look at the reflection. That is the 1893 view.
  2. The Statue of the Republic: There is a smaller, bronze replica of the original "Big Mary" statue at the intersection of Hayes and Richards Drives. It marks the spot where the original Administration Building stood.
  3. The Wooded Island: This was Olmsted’s favorite part of the fair. He wanted a place where people could escape the "noise" of the exhibits. The Ho-o-den (Phoenix Temple) was located here, a gift from Japan. Today, it’s the Garden of the Phoenix, a quiet, beautiful spot that still feels like 1893.
  4. The Chicago History Museum: They have an incredible collection of actual artifacts, from admission tickets to original Ferris Wheel blueprints.

Actionable Next Steps for History Buffs

If you want to truly understand the Chicago World's Fair, don't just read the Wikipedia page.

  • Read the primary sources: Find a digitized copy of The Reason Why the Colored American Is Not in the World's Columbian Exposition. It provides the essential counter-narrative to the "perfection" of the White City.
  • Check out the maps: Look at the Library of Congress digital archives for the 1893 site maps. Overlay them with a current Google Map of Jackson Park. It will change how you walk through that neighborhood.
  • Look for "Fair Houses": Some smaller structures and even pieces of the fair were sold off and moved. There are homes in the Chicago suburbs and even in other states that claim to be built from 1893 materials.
  • Visit the Prairie Avenue District: Many of the "Fair Kings"—the millionaires who funded the event—lived here. You can tour the Glessner House to see how the people who ran the fair actually lived.

The fair was a moment where the world decided what the 20th century was going to look like. It gave us our love for neon lights, fast food, skyscrapers, and global connectivity. It was flawed, beautiful, and deeply weird. Just like Chicago.