You’re driving along Scenic Road in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the salt spray hitting your windshield, and suddenly, you see it. It’s not just another multi-million dollar Monterey Cypress-shrouded cottage. It's an architectural fever dream that looks like it’s trying to take flight. Local residents and architecture nerds call it the Butterfly House in Carmel, and honestly, it’s probably the most photographed private residence on the entire Central Coast for a reason.
It sits on an impossible rocky outcropping at Stewart Cove. Most houses here try to blend into the trees or hide behind stone walls. Not this one. This house reaches out toward the Pacific with a roofline that mimics the wings of a Monarch. It’s weird. It’s beautiful. It’s also a masterclass in how Mid-Century Modern design can actually respect a coastline rather than just conquering it.
The Man Who Saw Wings in the Rock
Let’s get the history straight because people mix this up all the time. This wasn't built by some tech mogul in the 90s. It was designed in 1951 by Frank Wynkoop. He didn't just design it; he lived there. Imagine the guts it took in the early fifties to pitch a home with an inverted gable roof—basically a "V" shape—on one of the most precarious lots in California.
The structural engineering was, frankly, a bit of a nightmare. Building on granite isn't like building on a suburban lot in San Jose. You’ve got the constant erosion, the salt air that eats metal for breakfast, and the sheer force of the tide. Wynkoop’s vision was about organic architecture. He wanted the house to feel like it was part of the tide pools. The "wings" aren't just for show; they allow for massive walls of glass that frame the ocean without the roof obstructing the view of the horizon.
Why the Butterfly House in Carmel Looks the Way It Does
It’s all about the "V."
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In standard architecture, a roof peaks in the middle to shed water. In the butterfly style, the roof slopes inward toward the center. It sounds counterintuitive. Why would you want water running into the middle of your house? But for Wynkoop, it allowed for higher exterior walls. This meant more glass. More light. More of that crushing Blue-Pacific beauty.
Over the years, the house has seen some changes. In the early 2000s, it underwent a massive restoration. They didn't just paint the walls. We’re talking about a multi-year project to bring it up to modern standards while keeping that 1951 soul intact. The interior courtyard is a sanctuary. It has this incredible sunken pool that sits protected from the wind, which, if you’ve ever spent a Tuesday afternoon in Carmel, you know can be brutal.
Modern Ownership and the $29 Million Question
People always ask who owns it. For a long time, it was a mystery to the casual tourist. In recent history, it was owned by venture capitalist Joe Lonsdale, who eventually put it on the market. In 2023, the property made headlines again when it sold for somewhere in the ballpark of $29 million.
Think about that.
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For a house with only three bedrooms. You aren't paying for square footage here. You’re paying for the fact that you’re living inside a piece of art that shouldn't legally be allowed to exist so close to the water. The California Coastal Commission is notoriously strict nowadays. If that house burned down tomorrow, you’d never be allowed to build it again in the same spot. It’s a "grandfathered-in" miracle.
Dealing With the Crowds and the "Private Property" Reality
If you're planning to visit, don't expect a tour. You can't go inside. It’s a private home.
I’ve seen tourists trying to climb the rocks to get a better angle for their Instagram feed, and honestly, it’s a bad idea. The rocks are slippery, the tide is unpredictable, and the homeowners (rightfully) value their privacy. The best way to see the Butterfly House in Carmel is actually from the water or by walking along the public beach access nearby.
- The Scenic Road Walk: Park near Carmel River State Beach and walk north. You'll see the house perched on the promontory.
- The Point Lobos View: If you have binoculars and you’re hiking across the bay at Point Lobos, you can see how the house sits against the silhouette of the town.
- The Best Light: Go during the "Golden Hour." When the sun starts to dip, the glass reflects the orange sky, and the house truly looks like a Monarch butterfly resting on a stone.
Is It Actually Good Architecture?
Some critics in the past called it "gimmicky." They thought the roof was a stunt. But if you look at the work of Frank Lloyd Wright or Richard Neutra, they were all playing with these same ideas—how do we break the "box" of a house?
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The Butterfly House succeeded because it survived. It has weathered decades of Pacific storms that have claimed other piers and structures. It proves that adventurous design doesn't have to be fragile. It’s built with high-quality materials like Douglas fir, stone, and steel, all meant to age with the landscape. It's aged better than most of the "McMansions" built ten years ago, that's for sure.
What You Should Know Before You Go
Carmel isn't like other beach towns. There are no street lights. There are no addresses (seriously, look it up). If you’re looking for the Butterfly House, you have to navigate by landmarks. It’s located near the intersection of Scenic Road and Martin Way.
Keep your expectations in check. You’re looking at a residence. But as you stand there, watching the waves crash against the foundation, you realize it represents a specific moment in California history. A time when we were bold. When we thought we could live right on the edge of the world and look good doing it.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Tide Tables: The house looks most dramatic at high tide when the water swirls around the base, but for walking the nearby beach, low tide is safer.
- Respect the Neighbors: Parking on Scenic Road is a nightmare. Park further up in the residential area and walk down. Your legs will thank you, and the locals won't glare at you.
- Bring a Real Camera: Smartphone zoom is okay, but the detail of the stonework and the roof joinery is worth seeing through a 50mm or 85mm lens.
- Visit the Tor House Next: If you’re into historic Carmel homes, walk a few blocks over to Robinson Jeffers’ Tor House. It’s the rugged, stone-counterpoint to the mid-century sleekness of the Butterfly House.
- Dine in Carmel: Afterward, head to Ocean Avenue. Grab a coffee at Carmel Bakery—it's been there since 1899—and talk about whether you’d actually want to live in a glass house where everyone can see you.
The Butterfly House remains a testament to the idea that a home can be more than a shelter. It can be a landmark. Even if you only see it for five minutes from the side of the road, it stays with you. It's a reminder that sometimes, the most impractical ideas—like building a house shaped like a butterfly on a jagged rock—are the ones that define a place forever.