It was 1973. A massive crowd of over 30,000 people packed the Houston Astrodome to watch a 55-year-old Bobby Riggs take on the legendary Billie Jean King. This wasn't just tennis. It was a cultural explosion, a circus, and a high-stakes bet on gender equality all rolled into one. But if you’re a watch nerd, you weren't just looking at the rackets. You were staring at the Battle of the Sexes watch—the specific Rolex Datejust that Bobby Riggs wore during one of the most televised sporting events in history.
People forget how big this was. 90 million people tuned in.
Riggs was the ultimate showman. He walked onto the court wearing a warm-up jacket that said "Sugar Daddy" on the back. He was the self-proclaimed king of male chauvinism, but he was also a master marketer. On his wrist sat a gold Rolex Datejust, reference 1601. It was flashy. It was expensive. It was exactly what a man trying to prove his "superiority" would wear to ensure everyone knew he had already won the lifestyle game, even if he was about to lose the match.
What Kind of Rolex Was the Battle of the Sexes Watch?
Most people assume it was a Day-Date because of the gold, but it was actually a 36mm Datejust.
Honestly, the choice of watch says a lot about the era. In the early 70s, the Datejust wasn't just a "nice watch." It was the definitive symbol of making it. The reference 1601 features that iconic fluted bezel and, in Riggs’ case, a striking champagne dial that blurred into the yellow gold case. It’s got that "pi-pan" dial edge—a little slope at the perimeter that gives it a depth you just don’t see in modern 126233 references.
Riggs wore it on a leather strap during the match, which seems insane by today's athletic standards. Can you imagine Nadal or Djokovic playing a high-stakes match with a dress watch on a sweaty leather band? Probably not. But Riggs wasn't there to out-sprint King. He was there to hustle.
The watch became a silent character in the drama. Every time Riggs wiped his brow or served the ball, that gold case caught the harsh stadium lights. It represented the "Old Guard"—the establishment that Billie Jean King was systematically dismantling with every cross-court backhand.
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The Mystery of the Bobby Riggs Rolex
Whatever happened to that specific watch? That’s where things get murky.
Collectors have been hunting for the "Riggs 1601" for decades. Unlike Paul Newman’s Daytona or Jack Nicklaus’s Day-Date, which surfaced with incredible fanfare and massive auction price tags, the Battle of the Sexes watch hasn't had that one big "Aha!" moment at Phillips or Sotheby’s.
We know Riggs was a gambler. He lived for the juice. There are rumors in the vintage community that he might have hocked his jewelry or lost pieces in private bets later in life. Riggs famously bet $5,000 of his own money against King, and he lost more than just the cash; he lost his aura of invincibility.
If that watch ever hit the open market with ironclad provenance, we’re looking at a mid-six-figure piece, easily. Not because a 1601 is rare—Rolex made tons of them—but because it sat at the epicenter of a social revolution.
Why the Datejust 1601 Still Matters Today
- Proportions: The 36mm size is currently having a massive "I told you so" moment. After years of 44mm "dinner plate" watches, enthusiasts are coming back to the classic size Riggs wore.
- The Movement: Inside that watch was the Caliber 1570. It’s a workhorse. Watchmakers love it because it’s over-engineered and can be serviced to keep COSC time even 50 years later.
- Aesthetic Versatility: You can put it on a Jubilee bracelet for a wedding or a distressed suede strap to look like a 1970s tennis pro.
Billie Jean King’s Wrist: The Contrast
While Bobby was flaunting his Rolex, Billie Jean King was all business. She wasn't really a "watch person" in the same way. Her focus was on the Women's Tennis Association (WTA) and equal pay. However, the contrast between the two athletes was sharpened by their gear.
King wore blue suede Adidas sneakers—which were revolutionary at the time—while Riggs was trying to play tennis in a gold Rolex. It highlighted the difference between the future of sport and the ego of the past.
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Yet, the irony is that the Battle of the Sexes watch actually helped solidify Rolex’s association with tennis. Today, Rolex is the official timekeeper of Wimbledon and all four Grand Slams. They didn't get there just by sponsoring the winners; they got there because the losers, the gamblers, and the icons all chose the crown.
The Cultural Weight of a Timepiece
You can’t talk about this watch without talking about the "hustle."
Riggs was a Triple Crown winner at Wimbledon in 1939. He was a legitimate great. But by '73, he was a character. He used the Datejust as a prop. In the lead-up to the match, he did segments for 60 Minutes and appeared on late-night talk shows, always with the watch visible. It was part of his "Rich Man" persona.
When King beat him in straight sets—6-4, 6-3, 6-3—it wasn't just a win for women's sports. It was a reality check for the flamboyant, watch-flaunting lifestyle Riggs promoted.
Modern Alternatives for the Battle of the Sexes Look
If you want that Riggs energy without the 1970s sexism, you have options.
- The Rolex Datejust 126233: This is the modern successor. It has a better power reserve (70 hours) and a much sturdier Jubilee bracelet.
- Tudor Black Bay 36 (S&G): If you want the gold-and-steel look but don't want to spend $12k, the Tudor "Steel & Gold" models are incredible.
- Vintage Seiko "Datejust" Homages: If you’re just into the vibe, old Seiko 7N43 models give you that fluted bezel look for about $150.
Honestly, though, nothing beats a birth-year 1601. There’s a warmth to the acrylic crystal (Plexiglass) that modern sapphire just can’t replicate. It catches the light differently. It feels like a piece of history rather than a piece of jewelry.
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Collecting the Legend
If you’re looking to buy a Battle of the Sexes watch style Datejust, you need to be careful. The vintage market is a minefield.
First, check the lugs. Over-polishing is the death of a vintage Rolex. If the lugs look thin like needles, walk away. You want "fat" lugs with the original brushed finish on top.
Second, the dial. "Champagne" dials are prone to spotting or "patina." Some people love it; others hate it. Just make sure it hasn't been relumed with modern bright green Glow-in-the-dark paint. That ruins the value. You want that creamy, dead tritium that doesn't glow at all.
Third, the movement. Ask for a "timegrapher" shot. If it’s swinging at 250+ amplitude, you’re in good shape.
The Lasting Legacy of the 1973 Match
The Battle of the Sexes did more for women's sports than perhaps any other single event. It led to Title IX becoming a household concept. It made Billie Jean King a global icon.
But it also fixed a specific image in our minds: the image of a man who thought his gold watch and his past glory were enough to hold back the tide of progress. Bobby Riggs lost the match, but he unintentionally created one of the most enduring "watch moments" in sports history.
Whenever a gold Datejust peaks out from under a sleeve at a tennis club, there’s a little bit of that 1973 Astrodome energy in the air. It’s a reminder of a time when everything—even a tennis match—was a spectacle.
Actionable Steps for Enthusiasts
- Research the Reference: If you’re serious about the Riggs look, spend a week on the Rolex Forums or Watchuseek looking specifically at "Reference 1601 Champagne Dial."
- Check Serial Numbers: A "Battle of the Sexes" era watch should have a serial number between 3,200,000 and 3,800,000. This places it right in that 1972-1974 production window.
- Verify the Bezel: Ensure the bezel is 14k or 18k solid gold. Some later "Franken-watches" use gold-plated aftermarket parts which have zero collector value.
- Understand the Strap: Riggs played on a leather strap. If you buy one on a bracelet, try swapping it for a mahogany or dark brown lizard skin strap to get that authentic 1973 "Hustler" aesthetic.
- Visit a Local Specialist: Don't buy your first vintage Rolex on eBay. Go to a reputable dealer like Bob’s Watches, HQ Milton, or Theo & Harris where the pieces are authenticated.
The 1973 match proved that talent beats talk. But it also proved that a great watch is timeless, regardless of who wins the set. Whether you view it as a symbol of old-world arrogance or a masterpiece of mid-century design, the gold Datejust remains the definitive accessory of that wild, transformative moment in history.