You probably know the smell before you see the store. That heavy, musky cloud of Fierce cologne wafting through a mall corridor used to be the ultimate status symbol for suburban teenagers. But if you think the brand started with shirtless models and low-rise jeans in the 1990s, you're off by about a century. Honestly, the real story is way more rugged. So, when was Abercrombie established? It wasn't during the rise of the American mall. It was 1892.
- Think about that for a second.
Grover Cleveland was being elected president. The Ellis Island immigrant station had just opened its doors. While the world was transitioning into the modern era, a man named David T. Abercrombie opened a small waterfront shop at 36 South Street in downtown Manhattan. He wasn't selling polos. He was selling high-end shotgun cases, fishing tackle, and camping gear for the kind of people who actually went into the wilderness and didn't just look like they did.
The Manhattan Waterfront Origins
David Abercrombie was an outdoorsman, through and through. He was a top-tier surveyor and a searcher of rugged landscapes. When he started his company, he wanted to cater to the "great outdoors" crowd—the explorers, the hunters, and the serious fishers. It was a niche business, but it worked because the quality was undeniable.
A few years later, a regular customer named Ezra Fitch entered the picture. Fitch was a successful lawyer, but he was bored out of his mind with the legal profession. He spent his free time hiking and fishing, and he became obsessed with Abercrombie’s gear. He saw a potential that David didn't. Fitch wanted to expand the brand to the masses, or at least the wealthy masses who wanted to feel adventurous. By 1904, Fitch had bought into the business, and the name officially became Abercrombie & Fitch.
It wasn't a smooth partnership. Not even close.
David Abercrombie was a purist. He wanted to sell gear to professional explorers. Ezra Fitch was a visionary who wanted to build a retail empire. They fought constantly. Imagine two guys in wool suits arguing over whether a store should feel like a dusty warehouse or a luxury destination. By 1907, David had enough. He sold his share to Fitch and walked away. The "Abercrombie" in the name stayed, but the man himself was gone.
When Abercrombie & Fitch Became the World's Greatest Sporting Goods Store
Under Ezra Fitch, the brand exploded. He moved the store to Madison Avenue, and it became a twelve-story temple of adventure. This place was insane. It had a log cabin on the roof. It had a basement shooting range. There was a fly-fishing pool where you could test out your rods before buying them.
If you were a celebrity or a world leader in the early 20th century, you shopped there. This isn't just marketing fluff; the list of customers is a literal history textbook.
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- Teddy Roosevelt bought his gear there for his Smithsonian-Roosevelt African Expedition in 1909.
- Ernest Hemingway was a lifelong devotee. He reportedly bought the shotgun he eventually used to take his own life from A&F.
- Amelia Earhart suited up there.
- John F. Kennedy and Dwight D. Eisenhower both wore their rugged knits and outdoor gear.
The brand was synonymous with "elite adventurer." It was the most expensive, most exclusive sporting goods store in the world. They even outfitted the crew for the first flight across the Atlantic. If you were doing something dangerous and expensive, you were wearing A&F.
The Near Death of a Legend
But businesses change. Markets shift. By the 1960s and 70s, the "Elite Adventurer" vibe was starting to feel a bit... old. People were buying cheaper gear at mass-market retailers. The high-overhead Madison Avenue store became a giant weight around the company's neck.
In 1977, the unthinkable happened. The legendary Abercrombie & Fitch declared bankruptcy.
It’s hard to imagine now, but the brand almost vanished. Oshman’s Outdoor Goods bought the name and tried to keep the "luxury sporting goods" dream alive, but it didn't really land. They opened some stores, but the soul was gone. The brand was wandering in the wilderness it used to help people conquer.
Then came 1988. Limited Brands (now Bath & Body Works, Inc.) purchased the struggling name for $47 million. They handed the keys to a man named Mike Jeffries, and everything changed.
The 90s Pivot: Sex, Abs, and Controversy
Jeffries is a polarizing figure, to put it lightly. He took this 100-year-old heritage brand and did something radical. He threw out the fishing rods. He closed the shooting ranges. He looked at the history of when Abercrombie was established and decided that "heritage" didn't mean "old." It meant "cool."
He reimagined A&F as a "near-luxury" lifestyle brand for the American teenager.
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The gear became "preppy with an edge." It was about the "All-American" look—ripped jeans, heavy hoodies, and those infamous shirtless models standing at the entrance. The marketing was provocative, often bordering on soft-core photography, shot by Bruce Weber. It was exclusionary by design. Jeffries famously said he only wanted "cool, good-looking people" wearing his clothes.
It worked. For a decade, Abercrombie & Fitch was the most dominant force in retail.
But the 2010s weren't as kind. The "exclusionary" vibe that made them cool in 1999 made them look like bullies in 2013. Sales plummeted. The brand faced lawsuits over its hiring practices and intense criticism for its lack of size inclusivity. Mike Jeffries stepped down in 2014, and the brand was once again on the brink of irrelevance.
The Modern Resurrection
If you haven't checked out the brand lately, you're in for a shock. It’s actually good again. Like, really good.
Under CEO Fran Horowitz, who took over in 2017, Abercrombie has pulled off one of the greatest brand turnarounds in fashion history. They ditched the darkness and the heavy cologne. They stopped focusing on being "exclusive" and started focusing on "inclusive" sizing and high-quality basics.
Today, the brand leans into its 1892 roots through its "Great Outdoors" aesthetic, but in a way that fits a 21st-century wardrobe. They sell tailored trousers that people actually wear to the office and wedding guest dresses that sell out in minutes.
The answer to when was Abercrombie established is 1892, but the brand has lived about four different lives since then. It’s been a rugged outfitter, an elite sporting goods store, a controversial teen hangout, and now, a sophisticated fashion powerhouse.
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Why the 1892 Date Still Matters
Understanding the origins helps explain why the brand still feels different from a fast-fashion giant like H&M or Zara. There is a "DNA" of quality and Americana that has survived since David Abercrombie's first shop. Even during the Mike Jeffries era, the clothes were heavy-duty. The hoodies were thick. The stitching was reinforced. That’s the legacy of a company that started by making gear for people who might die if their equipment failed in the woods.
What You Should Know Before Buying Today
If you’re looking to dive back into the brand, here’s the reality of what you’re getting:
- Fit has changed. They are no longer just for the "waist 28" crowd. Their "Curve Love" line is legitimately one of the best-reviewed denim lines for people with hips.
- Quality is tiered. Their "Essential" line of tees and hoodies is still top-notch, but pay attention to fabric blends on their trendier pieces.
- Heritage isn't just a marketing gimmick. Look for the "1892" stamps on their hardware. It's a reminder that this brand survived the Great Depression, two World Wars, and the rise and fall of the American mall.
To truly understand the brand, you have to look past the cologne and the abs. You have to look at the guy who just wanted to sell a really good tent in 1892. That spirit of "the best gear for the journey" is what they are trying to reclaim today.
Next Steps for the Savvy Shopper:
Check your vintage tags. If you find Abercrombie & Fitch pieces with a "Made in USA" tag or labels that mention "Madison Avenue," you aren't just holding a piece of clothing; you're holding a piece of American history. Those items often fetch hundreds on the resale market because of the craftsmanship David Abercrombie insisted on over a century ago.
If you are buying new, start with the 90s Straight Jean or the Essential Hoodie. These are the items that currently bridge the gap between their historical focus on durability and their modern eye for silhouette. They are the closest thing to the "old soul, new look" vibe the brand is currently perfecting.
The brand isn't just a mall store. It’s a 130-year-old survivor. Whether you love them or hate them, you have to respect the longevity. Not many companies can say they outfitted both Teddy Roosevelt and your awkward middle school crush.