If you’re looking at a used 2018 Tesla Model X right now, you’re probably seeing prices that look almost too tempting. It’s that weird middle child of the Tesla lineup. Not old enough to be a total relic, but definitely not sporting the "Plaid" badges or the refreshed interior of the newer 2021+ models. You’ve got those Falcon Wing doors that look like something out of a sci-fi flick, but you also have the nagging fear of a motor failing or a screen yellowing right when you’re three states away from home.
Honestly? It's a complicated car.
The 2018 Tesla Model X was actually a pivotal year for the company. They were finally moving past the absolute production nightmare of the 2016 launch, where those doors wouldn't even close right half the time. By 2018, things had settled. You had the 75D, the 100D, and the Ludicrous P100D. But buying one of these today isn't just about picking a battery size; it’s about understanding the specific hardware "forks" that happened that year.
The MCU2 Swap: The Single Most Important Detail
Most people talk about range. Forget range for a second. If you are shopping for a 2018 Tesla Model X, the first thing you need to check is the infotainment computer, also known as the MCU.
Tesla switched from MCU1 (the old, laggy NVIDIA Tegra chip) to MCU2 (the much faster Intel Atom chip) around March 2018. If you get an early 2018 model with MCU1, your experience will kinda suck. The maps will stutter. Netflix won't work while you're charging. The screen might even suffer from "yellow border" syndrome because the adhesive used back then wasn't great with heat.
The MCU2 upgrade is a $1,500 to $2,000 fix if it hasn't been done. It changes everything. You get Sentry Mode views on your phone. You get a snappy interface. You get reliability. If you’re looking at a listing and the screen looks sluggish in the photos, or the owner doesn’t know what you’re talking about, check the "Additional Vehicle Information" tab in the software menu on the car's screen.
The 2018 Tesla Model X and the Range Reality Check
Let's talk mileage. The 75D was the entry-level trim. It was rated for about 237 miles when new. Fast forward to today? You’re likely looking at 210 to 215 miles on a full charge due to battery degradation.
That’s tight.
If you live in a cold climate, like Chicago or Oslo, that 215 miles becomes 150 real quick when the heater is blasting and the chemical reactions in the Panasonic cells slow down. The 100D is the sweet spot. It had a rated range of 295 miles. Even with 8% degradation, you’ve still got a solid 270 miles to play with.
The P100D? It’s fun. It’s stupid fast. 0-60 in 2.9 seconds in an SUV that weighs over 5,000 pounds is a physical experience that makes your stomach do somersaults. But you pay for it in tire wear. Those 22-inch Onyx Black wheels look incredible, but they are heavy. They eat range. And those tires? They aren't cheap. You’ll be replacing them every 15,000 to 20,000 miles if you have a heavy foot.
Those Doors: Genius or Gimmick?
Look, everyone loves the Falcon Wing doors until they don't. By 2018, Tesla had replaced the ultrasonic sensors that "see" through the metal with better tech, and the seals were improved to stop the leaking issues that plagued the 2016 models.
But they’re still mechanical.
They have complex hinges. They have "ghosting" issues where the sensors think there's an obstacle when there isn't. If you’re buying a used 2018 Tesla Model X, you need to open and close those doors five times in a row. Listen for clicking. Look for misalignment. If the door rubs against the roof glass, it will eventually shatter that glass. That's a multi-thousand dollar repair.
I’ve seen people use these doors in tight parking spots, and it’s genuinely impressive. They need less lateral space than a minivan slider. But if you have a low garage ceiling? You’ll be constantly hovering your hand over the "stop" button on the screen.
Hardware 2.5 vs. Full Self-Driving
In 2018, these cars came with Autopilot Hardware 2.5.
Wait.
Does that mean it can’t drive itself? Not necessarily. If the previous owner bought the "Full Self-Driving" (FSD) package, Tesla usually upgrades the computer to Hardware 3.0 (the FSD Computer) for free. If they didn't buy it, you’re stuck with HW2.5, which is great for highway cruising—Adaptive Cruise Control and Autosteer—but it won't handle city streets or stop signs.
Basically, the 2018 Tesla Model X is a transition car. It’s the bridge between the experimental early days and the mass-market reliability of the Model Y. It feels more "premium" than a Model Y, though. You get the air suspension. You get the self-presenting front doors that open as you walk up. That’s a feature I genuinely miss when I switch to a newer Model 3.
Suspension and the "Shudder"
If you’re test-driving a 2018 Tesla Model X, floor it. Seriously. Get on a highway on-ramp and give it 100% power.
If the front end feels like it’s vibrating or "shuddering," the half-shafts are worn. This is a notorious issue with the Model X air suspension. When the car is in "Standard" height and you apply heavy torque, the angle of the axles causes premature wear. Tesla eventually released redesigned half-shafts and clevis mounts, but many 2018 units still have the old ones.
It’s not a safety deal-breaker, but it’s annoying. And it gets worse over time.
The Interior: Aging Like Fine Wine or Cheap Plastic?
The 2018 interior is "Classic Tesla." You have the vertical 17-inch screen. You have the actual instrument cluster behind the steering wheel—something the Model 3 and Y owners are constantly jealous of.
The "Ultra White" vegan leather seats are surprisingly durable. I’ve seen 2018s with 100,000 miles where the white seats look better than the black ones. The black seats tend to show "sheen" and body oils more. If you find a six-seat configuration, grab it. It’s the best layout. The center aisle makes the whole cabin feel airy, and the rear passengers don't feel like they're in a cave.
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The seven-seat version is... tight. The middle row on the 2018 seven-seater is on a bench that folds, but it’s not as elegant as the pedestals in the six-seater.
Real World Maintenance Costs
People say EVs have no maintenance. That's a lie.
Especially for a six-year-old luxury SUV. On a 2018 Tesla Model X, you should be looking at:
- HEPA Filter: The Bioweapon Defense Mode is cool, but that giant filter needs changing every 3 years. It’s a pain to reach.
- 12V Battery: Unlike the new Teslas with Lithium-ion 16V batteries, the 2018 uses a lead-acid 12V. They die every 2-4 years. If it dies, you’re locked out. Change it proactively.
- Brake Fluid: Needs a moisture check every 2 years.
- Air Conditioning Desiccant Bag: This is the one everyone forgets. If you don’t change it, your AC compressor might fail. That’s a $2,500 bill.
Is the 2018 Tesla Model X Still Worth It?
If you can find a 100D with under 70,000 miles and MCU2 already installed for under $35,000, it’s a steal. You're getting a car that originally cost $100,000. It still gets over-the-air updates. It still charges at Version 3 Superchargers at up to 200kW (though it tapers faster than the new "Raven" motors).
But don’t buy the first one you see.
The 2018 year was a "rolling change" year. A car built in January 2018 is vastly different from one built in November 2018. The later the build date, the better.
Actionable Next Steps for Buyers:
- Run the VIN: Use a service to check if the MCU has been upgraded. If the dash screen and the main screen don't match in brightness or speed, it’s a red flag.
- Check the Frunk: Look for signs of water ingress. The seals on the 2018s were better, but not perfect.
- Tire Inspection: Check the inside edge of the rear tires. The Model X has natural negative camber, meaning the inside wears out way faster than the outside. You might think the tread is fine, but the cords could be showing on the inner edge.
- Supercharge It: Take the car to a Supercharger during the test drive. Make sure it hits at least 100kW+ (if the battery is low). If it struggles to pull power, the contactors or the battery heater might be failing.
- Verify Free Unlimited Supercharging: Some 2018s had it, but it often doesn't transfer to the next owner unless it was a specific "SC01" code. Don't assume it's free. Call Tesla with the VIN to be 100% sure.