You know that feeling when you're one card away from finishing your set, and your friend suddenly goes out, leaving you stuck on the same level for the third round in a row? That's the beautiful, infuriating reality of this game. Invented by Kenneth Johnson in 1982, Phase 10 has become a staple of family gatherings, right next to Monopoly for its ability to cause playful (and sometimes not-so-playful) arguments. It’s basically a rummy-style marathon.
But here’s the thing. Most people just play the cards they get and hope for the best. They don’t realize that the 10 phases of Phase 10 are designed with a specific difficulty curve that demands different strategies at different times. If you're playing Phase 4 the same way you play Phase 8, you're gonna lose. Period.
What the 10 Phases of Phase 10 Actually Require
Let's talk about the actual requirements. To move forward, you have to lay down the specific "Phase" for that round. If you don't, you're stuck repeating it while everyone else moves on. It’s a race, but it’s also a game of resource management.
The first phase is a warm-up: 2 sets of 3. This is simple math. You're looking for three of a kind, twice. Maybe three 4s and three 8s. Since colors don't matter here, you should be hoarding the numbers that appear most frequently in your opening hand. Don't get fancy. Just get it done.
Then we hit Phase 2: 1 set of 3 and 1 run of 4. Now things get spicy. A run is a sequence of numbers (like 3, 4, 5, 6) in any color. This is where most players make their first mistake. They try to build a run in the middle of the deck. Pro tip? Try to build your run starting from the ends—either low numbers or high numbers—because they are often easier to complete when people start discarding the "useless" 1s or 12s.
✨ Don't miss: All Might Crystals Echoes of Wisdom: Why This Quest Item Is Driving Zelda Fans Wild
The Mid-Game Grind and the "Color" Trap
Phase 3 introduces the 1 set of 4 and 1 run of 4. It’s a slight step up. But Phase 4 is where the rhythm changes completely: 1 run of 7. Seven cards in a row. Honestly, this is one of the hardest phases in the entire game because you are essentially tying up your entire hand for a single goal. If you're holding a 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, you are praying for that 5. If someone else is sitting on all the 5s, you’re toast.
Phase 5 is 1 run of 8. It's statistically even more annoying than Phase 4. You have almost no "dead" cards allowed in your hand if you want to go out quickly.
Then comes Phase 6: 1 run of 9. By now, you’re probably wondering if Kenneth Johnson just liked watching people suffer. A run of nine cards means you only have one card in your hand that isn't part of the sequence. If you pull a Skip card or a Wild, cherish it like gold. Seriously. Wilds are the only reason anyone ever finishes Phase 6 without losing their mind.
Why Everyone Hates Phase 7
2 sets of 4. That’s Phase 7. It sounds easier than a run of nine, right? Wrong. Because by the time the group reaches Phase 7, the discard pile is usually a wasteland of high-value numbers that everyone is hoarding. People are more defensive. They see you pick up a 10, and they will hold onto every 10 in their hand just to spite you.
🔗 Read more: The Combat Hatchet Helldivers 2 Dilemma: Is It Actually Better Than the G-50?
Phase 8 is the "Color Phase": 7 cards of 1 color. This is the one phase where the numbers don't matter at all. Most players find this refreshing, but it's dangerous. Because everyone is looking for colors, the discard pile becomes a literal rainbow. If you see someone picking up nothing but Blues, stop discarding Blues. It's basic defensive play, but you'd be surprised how many people ignore it.
The Final Stretch: Harder Than It Looks
Phase 9 is 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 2. This is a weird one. The set of five is a massive commitment. If you’re going for five 6s, you’re looking for nearly half of all the 6s in the deck (since there are only two of each number per color, and four colors).
Finally, Phase 10: 1 set of 5 and 1 set of 3. This is the endgame. At this point, the point totals usually matter. Remember, Phase 10 isn’t just about who finishes the phases first; it’s about who has the fewest points if multiple people finish Phase 10 in the same round.
- Cards 1-9: 5 points each.
- Cards 10-12: 10 points each.
- Skips: 15 points.
- Wilds: 25 points.
If you’re stuck on Phase 10 and someone else goes out, holding a couple of Wilds will absolutely tank your score. I’ve seen people "win" the race to Phase 10 but lose the game because they played too greedily and accumulated 400 points along the way.
💡 You might also like: What Can You Get From Fishing Minecraft: Why It Is More Than Just Cod
Strategic Nuances Most People Ignore
Wild cards are flexible, sure, but they’re also a liability. In the 10 phases of Phase 10, the Wild can be any number or any color. But you can never use more Wilds than "natural" cards in a set or run unless the house rules say otherwise (and check your rulebook, because house rules are the leading cause of Phase 10 divorces).
The Skip card is your most powerful political tool. Use it on the person to your left if they are a phase ahead of you. It’s not being mean; it’s survival. If they can’t draw, they can’t progress. This buys you an extra turn to find that elusive card you need.
Also, pay attention to the deck size. Phase 10 uses a massive 108-card deck. This means the probability of a specific card appearing is lower than in a standard 52-card deck. You have to play the odds. If three 7s are already on the table in other people's sets, don't try to build a set of 7s. You’re fighting for scraps.
How to Win More Often
Stop focusing only on your own hand. That's the biggest amateur move. You need to be a hawk. Watch the discard pile. If the player after you is on Phase 8 (the color phase) and they just picked up a Red card from the discard pile, do not give them another Red card. Give them the highest number of a different color you can spare.
Efficiency is everything. In the early phases (1 through 3), try to go out as fast as possible to stick your opponents with high points. In the later, harder phases (4 through 6), focus entirely on completing the phase, even if it means you take a few extra points in your hand. The "climb" is more important than the score in the middle of the game.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Game Night
- Memorize the jump: Phase 4 is the "Wall." When you get there, switch from a "set-heavy" mindset to a "run-heavy" mindset. Start saving sequences early.
- Dump the high cards: If you aren't using 10s, 11s, or 12s for your current phase, get rid of them early in the round. If someone else goes out, you don't want to be caught holding 30 points worth of cards.
- The Wild Strategy: Never hold a Wild card hoping for a better spot to use it. If it completes your phase, lay it down immediately. The risk of being skipped or someone else going out is too high.
- Track the Colors: In Phase 8, count the cards. There are 24 cards of each color. If you see 15 Yellows already played or in discards, switch your target color immediately if you can.
Phase 10 is a game of patience and calculated risks. It’s about knowing when to play it safe and when to dump your hand. Now that you understand the progression and the risks of each level, go ahead and ruin your family's evening with some superior strategy. Just don't blame me when they stop inviting you to game night.