Tessa Upper West Side: What Most People Get Wrong

Tessa Upper West Side: What Most People Get Wrong

You’re walking down Amsterdam Avenue, dodging a rogue double-wide stroller and wondering why every restaurant on the Upper West Side looks like it was decorated by the same person in 1994. Then you see it. Tessa Upper West Side hits different. It doesn’t feel like a neighborhood "safe bet" where you get mediocre pasta for forty bucks. It feels like a piece of downtown Manhattan accidentally drifted north of 72nd Street and decided to stay.

Honestly, the Upper West Side has a reputation for being a culinary desert. People say it's all bagels, Zabar’s, and overpriced diners. They’re mostly right. But Tessa is the outlier. It’s been sitting there at 349 Amsterdam Ave since 2014, survived the chaos of the last few years, and somehow kept its soul. It’s a "modern Mediterranean tavern," which basically means they do whatever they want as long as it tastes like it came from a sun-drenched coast in Europe.

The Vibe Nobody Tells You About

The first thing you notice isn't the smell of garlic; it's the iron. The ceiling is covered in these accordion-style iron security gates. It sounds aggressive, but in the dim lighting, it’s kinda beautiful. It gives the place an industrial-chic edge that usually requires a trip to the Meatpacking District.

You’ve got a mix of people here. Early evening is the "locals of a certain age" crowd—the folks who remember when the neighborhood was edgy. By 8:00 PM, it’s younger. Couples on third dates, groups of friends who actually want to hear each other talk, and the occasional solo diner at the bar who clearly knows the bartender by name.

It’s cozy. It’s trendy. It’s also surprisingly unpretentious for a place that has been Michelin-recommended for years.

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The Food: Beyond the "Mediterranean" Label

Calling it Mediterranean is a bit of a cop-out. It’s more like a greatest hits album of France, Italy, and Spain, with some North African guest appearances. Executive Chef Eric Cope (who took over from the original chef Cedric Tovar) has a weirdly specific talent for making things feel "fresh but familiar."

If you go and don't order the pasta, you’ve essentially failed the mission. They make it all in-house. The Rabbit Cavatelli is the heavy hitter here. It’s got this smokey onion vibe, pancetta ragu, and a lovage coulis that makes you want to lick the bowl. It’s rich. It’s savory. It’s the kind of dish that makes you forget your diet exists.

Then there’s the Octopus a la Plancha. Most places mess up octopus. It’s either a rubber band or mush. At Tessa Upper West Side, they steam it first and then finish it on the plancha to get that charred, crispy exterior. They serve it with a green olive tapenade and squash caponata. It’s salty, acidic, and tender.

Don’t sleep on the "House Dips" either. It sounds basic, but the carrot harissa and whipped ricotta are essential. Especially with the house-made lavash.

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Why It Actually Works

Most UWS restaurants survive on foot traffic and lack of competition. Tessa survives on repeat business. Owner Larry Bellone, a neighborhood local for decades, named the place after his daughter. You can feel that. It’s not a corporate chain trying to "disrupt" the dining scene.

They also do a brunch that is low-key one of the best in the city. Forget the sad omelets down the street. We’re talking about a "Build Your Own Bennie" (Eggs Benedict) where you can use Lemon Arancini as a base instead of an English muffin. And if you’re struggling from the night before, "The Hangover Cure" bowl—slow-poached eggs, homemade chicken sausage, and gigante beans—is basically a religious experience.

Real Talk: The Cost and the Kinks

Is it cheap? No. Expect to drop some cash. It’s a "$$$" kind of place. Small plates are in the $18–$25 range, and entrees can easily hit the $40s. If you’re just grabbing a casual Tuesday bite, your wallet might feel it.

Also, it gets loud. If you’re looking for a silent, library-like dinner, this isn’t it. The bar is the heartbeat of the room, and when it’s full, the energy is high. Sometimes the service can get a bit frantic during the Saturday night rush, but they usually make up for it with sheer friendliness.

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What Most People Get Wrong

People think you need a reason to go to Tessa Upper West Side. A birthday, an anniversary, a "we finally got a babysitter" night. Sure, it's great for those. But the real pro move is hitting the bar for a "La Flor de Tessa" cocktail (gin, lavender honey, rose water) and a plate of meatballs on a random Wednesday.

It’s the "modern tavern" part that people forget. It’s meant to be lived in, not just visited for special occasions.

Actionable Tips for Your Visit

  1. The Wine Room: If you have a group of 10–18, ask for the Wine Room. It’s semi-private and feels very "underground cellar."
  2. Resy is your friend: Don’t just walk in on a Friday. You’ll be standing on the sidewalk looking sad. Book a week out.
  3. The "Small" Option: Many of their pastas come in appetizer or entree sizes. Order three small ones instead of one big one. Share. Taste everything.
  4. The Baked Alaska: Just order it. It has passion fruit and chocolate and a torched meringue that is actually worth the calories.
  5. Location Matters: It’s super close to the Beacon Theatre. If you’re seeing a show, this is the spot. But give yourself at least two hours; they don’t like to rush the food.

Stop thinking of the Upper West Side as just a place for museums and bagels. Tessa is proof that the neighborhood has a pulse. It’s sophisticated without being stuffy, and honestly, that’s a rare find in this city.

Go for the rabbit cavatelli. Stay for the vibe. And maybe, just maybe, you'll stop complaining about the UWS food scene.


Next Steps for Your Visit:

  • Check their current seasonal menu on the official website as it rotates frequently.
  • Make a reservation via Resy at least 3-5 days in advance for weekend dining.
  • If you're attending a performance at the Beacon Theatre, mention it to your server so they can help pace your meal accordingly.