You're standing in Penn Station. It’s loud, it’s frantic, and the smell of Auntie Anne’s pretzels is aggressively competing with the scent of damp concrete. Most people here are rushing to catch a subway or a NJ Transit train home, but you’re looking for the train NY to Montreal, specifically Amtrak’s Adirondack line.
It’s a long haul. We’re talking ten hours, minimum.
If you look at a flight from JFK or LaGuardia to Trudeau International, it’s barely 90 minutes in the air. On paper, the train looks like a bad deal. But here’s the thing about the Adirondack: it is widely considered one of the most beautiful train rides in the entire world, and for good reason. You aren’t just commuting; you’re basically taking a front-row seat to a moving painting of the Hudson Valley and the Champlain Valley.
What to Actually Expect on the Adirondack
Let’s be real for a second. Amtrak isn’t the Orient Express. You aren't getting a private cabin with a mahogany writing desk. What you are getting is a massive seat with more legroom than a first-class flight on Delta, and a window that actually lets you see the world.
The train leaves New York early in the morning. You’ll want to sit on the left side of the train heading north. Why? Because for the first three hours, the tracks hug the eastern bank of the Hudson River so closely you feel like you’re floating on the water. You’ll pass Bannerman Castle—that crumbling, mysterious fortress on Pollepel Island—and the majestic cliffs of the Palisades.
The Route and the Vibe
Once you get past Albany, the crowd thins out. The business travelers heading to the state capital hop off, and you’re left with the long-haulers. This is where the scenery shifts from "river town industrial" to "Adirondack wilderness."
You'll see:
- The literal ruins of 19th-century industry.
- Deep, dense forests that look like they haven't been touched since the French and Indian War.
- The sprawling expanse of Lake Champlain, which the train skirts for miles.
Honestly, the cell service is spotty. Don't expect to run a three-hour Zoom call through the mountains. Embrace the "dead zones." It’s kinda nice to actually look at a tree instead of a spreadsheet for once.
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The Border Crossing Reality Check
This is the part that trips people up. Since you're taking the train NY to Montreal, you are crossing an international border. This isn't like driving where you just roll down your window at a booth.
The train stops at Lacolle, Quebec. Canadian Border Services Agency (CBSA) officers board the train. You stay in your seat. They go row by row, checking passports and asking the standard "Where are you staying?" and "Are you bringing in any alcohol or weapons?"
It can take forty minutes. It can take two hours.
It depends entirely on who is on your train. If someone has a paperwork issue, the whole train waits. Amtrak has worked to streamline this, but the Adirondack famously has some of the most unpredictable arrival times in the system because of this "moving border" setup. If you have a dinner reservation in Montreal at 8:00 PM, you're playing a dangerous game.
Pro-Tip for the Border
Make sure your passport is actually in your bag and not tucked away in a suitcase in the overhead rack. Nothing kills the vibe faster than being the person making the border guard wait while you dig through your laundry to find your ID. Also, the ArriveCAN app isn't strictly mandatory for rail travel anymore, but having your info ready never hurts.
Food, Drinks, and the Café Car
Let’s talk about the "Amtrak cuisine." It’s... fine.
The Café Car serves heated-up sandwiches, hot dogs, and those little plastic cups of wine. It’s overpriced for what it is, but there’s something weirdly cozy about sitting in the lounge car with a mediocre coffee while watching the Adirondack Mountains roll by.
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However, savvy travelers know better. Since there’s no liquid restriction like at the airport, you can bring a full-blown picnic. Stop at Zabar's or a local deli before Penn Station. Pack a baguette, some good cheese, and maybe a bottle of water (or something stronger, though Amtrak technically says you should only drink "private" alcohol in sleeping cars, which the Adirondack doesn't have—so be discreet).
Eating a gourmet sandwich while overlooking Lake Champlain is a ten-out-of-ten experience. Eating a soggy $9 microwave burrito while looking at Lake Champlain is a four-out-of-ten. Plan accordingly.
Why the Train NY to Montreal Disappeared (and Why It’s Back)
You might remember a time recently when you couldn't take this trip. During the pandemic, the border closed, and the Adirondack was mothballed. Even after the border reopened, the service didn't come back immediately.
There was a whole drama involving Canadian National Railway (CN), who owns the tracks north of the border. They implemented a heat restriction. Basically, when it got too hot, the tracks could warp, so they forced the trains to go incredibly slow. Amtrak, frustrated by the delays, suspended service again in 2023.
Thankfully, as of 2024 and heading into 2026, those issues have been largely negotiated. The tracks have seen upgrades. The service is back to being a daily staple. But it’s a reminder that rail travel in North America is a complex dance between government agencies and private freight companies who own the "dirt" the tracks sit on.
Cost Comparison: Train vs. Plane vs. Bus
If you’re looking at your wallet, the math is interesting.
- The Train: Tickets usually hover between $70 and $130 each way. If you book months in advance, you can snag the "Value" fares. If you wait until the last minute, it gets pricey.
- The Plane: Can be $150 or it can be $500. Plus, you have to pay for the Uber to JFK, which is basically the price of a train ticket anyway.
- The Bus (Greyhound/Adirondack Trailways): It’s cheaper, sure. Maybe $60. But you’re on a bus. For nine hours. With no legroom. Don't do that to yourself.
The train is the "Goldilocks" zone. It’s affordable enough for students and retirees, but comfortable enough that you don't feel like you're punishing yourself for wanting to see Canada.
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Arriving in Montreal: Gare Centrale
When you finally pull into Montreal, you arrive at Gare Centrale (Central Station). This is a massive win over flying.
When you fly into YUL, you're way out in Dorval. You have to navigate the 20-minute (or 60-minute in traffic) trek into the city. When you take the train NY to Montreal, you step off the platform and you are literally underneath the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in the heart of downtown.
You can walk to:
- The Underground City (Réseau de la ville souterraine).
- Sainte-Catherine Street for shopping.
- A Metro station that connects you to the entire city.
The air in the station smells like fresh baked goods and floor wax. It feels like you’ve arrived somewhere important.
Is it Worth It?
If you are a "time is money" person who gets twitchy if a meeting starts two minutes late, do not take this train. You will go crazy.
But if you like the idea of a "slow travel" day—a day where your only responsibility is to read a book, look at some mountains, and maybe chat with a stranger in the Café Car—then there is no better way to get to Quebec.
The Adirondack line is a survivor. It’s survived budget cuts, global pandemics, and crumbling infrastructure. It remains one of the last great romantic travel experiences in the Northeast.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
To make sure your journey on the train NY to Montreal is actually enjoyable and not a logistical nightmare, follow these specific steps:
- Book the "Adirondack" Line specifically: Do not confuse this with the Ethan Allen Express, which goes to Burlington, Vermont. It’s a great ride, but it won’t get you to Montreal.
- Download the Amtrak App: This is where you’ll get real-time delay notifications. If the train is held up at the border, the app is usually the first place to show an updated ETA.
- Pack a Power Strip: Older Amtrak cars might only have one outlet per pair of seats. If you and your seatmate both need to charge phones and laptops, a small power strip makes you a hero.
- Bring CAD and USD: The Café Car takes both, but the exchange rate they give you on the train is usually terrible. Have some Canadian "loonies" and "toonies" ready for when you land so you can grab a Metro card or a snack immediately.
- Check the Seasonal Schedule: During the autumn, Amtrak sometimes adds a "Great Dome Car" to the Adirondack. This is a vintage car with a glass ceiling that allows for 360-degree views of the fall foliage. It is, quite literally, the best seat in the house. Check the Amtrak blog or social media in September to see if the Dome Car is running during your dates.
- Arrive at Penn Station 45 Minutes Early: Unlike a commuter train, the Adirondack is a long-distance service with a specific boarding gate. You’ll want to be in line early to secure that left-side window seat (for the river views) before the train fills up.
Taking the train is a choice to prioritize the journey over the destination. It’s a 370-mile stretch of history and nature that you just can't see from 30,000 feet. Pack a sandwich, charge your Kindle, and get ready for a very long, very beautiful day.