You’re sitting at Penn Station. It’s loud. It’s chaotic. But in about ten or eleven hours—depending on how the border gods are feeling—you’ll be stepping out into the crisp, European-style air of Gare Centrale. Taking the train from New York to Montreal is a rite of passage for Northeast travelers, but honestly, it’s a bit of a weird experience if you aren't prepared for the pacing.
It is slow. Let’s just get that out of the way. If you’re looking for high-speed rail, you are in the wrong country. This is the Adirondack, Amtrak’s scenic workhorse that hugs the Hudson River and winds through the mountains. It’s arguably the most beautiful train ride on the East Coast, but it requires a specific kind of patience. You aren't just buying a ticket; you're basically committing to a day-long meditation session with a view of the Catskills.
Why the Adirondack route is actually a big deal
Most people assume a train to Canada is just like taking the Acela to D.C., only longer. It’s not. For one, the Adirondack was suspended for a long time—years, actually—due to track conditions and the pandemic. When it finally came back, there was this collective sigh of relief from people who hate the madness of LaGuardia or the soul-crushing traffic on I-87.
The route starts at the Moynihan Train Hall. If you haven't been there yet, it’s a massive upgrade from the old subterranean Penn Station pit. You’ve got high ceilings, decent coffee, and actual sunlight. Once you pull out of the city, the scenery shifts fast. You go from the industrial grit of Yonkers to the sprawling estates of the Hudson Valley in what feels like minutes.
The tracks literally sit on the edge of the water. On the left side of the train (heading north), you’re looking out over the Hudson River for hours. It’s spectacular. You see West Point, the Bannerman Castle ruins, and eventually, the high peaks of the Adirondacks. This isn't just transport. It's a 10-hour nature documentary where you're the main character.
The border situation is the Great Unknown
Here is the thing about the train from New York to Montreal: the border stop at Rouses Point is a total wildcard.
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I’ve seen it take forty-five minutes. I’ve seen it take two and a half hours. Everyone stays on the train. The American crew swaps out for a Canadian crew (VIA Rail staff usually take over the operational vibe, though it’s still an Amtrak train). Customs officers walk through the aisles. They ask about your business in Canada, if you’re carrying more than $10,000, and if you have any weapons or farm products.
Don't bring a citrus fruit. Seriously. I once saw a guy get into a twenty-minute debate over an orange. Just eat your snacks before you hit the border.
The logistics of the New York to Montreal journey
Amtrak typically runs this service once a day. It leaves early—usually around 8:40 AM—and arrives in Montreal in the evening. Because there is only one train, if you miss it, you are basically stuck or heading to the Port Authority for a bus.
- Wifi: It exists, but it’s spotty. Once you hit the mountains, forget about it. You’ll have better luck staring at a tree than trying to load a Netflix stream.
- The Cafe Car: It’s standard Amtrak fare. Think microwaved pizzas and hot dogs. It’s fine in a pinch, but you’re better off packing a sandwich from Zabar’s or a deli in the city before you board.
- Seating: There is no "Sleeper" car on this route because it’s a day train. However, Coach seats on Amtrak are massive compared to airplane seats. You get a ton of legroom and a decent recline.
The price fluctuates wildly. If you book a month out, you might snag a seat for $70. If you try to go last minute during the Montreal Jazz Festival or a weekend with a Canadiens home game, you’re looking at $150 or more.
Hard Truth: The "Northbound" vs "Southbound" experience
Heading north feels like an adventure. You’re fueled by the anticipation of poutine and Montreal’s nightlife. Heading south? It feels longer. Maybe it’s because the scenery is the same but in reverse, or maybe it’s because you’re tired from walking up and down Mont-Royal.
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One thing to keep in mind: the tracks north of the border in Quebec are owned by freight companies (CN Rail). Freight gets priority. If a giant cargo train is coming the other way, your passenger train pulls over into a siding and waits. It’s annoying, but it’s the reality of North American rail.
Comparing your options
You could fly. It’s a 60-minute flight. But by the time you deal with the Uber to JFK, the two-hour security line, the customs wait at Trudeau Airport, and the taxi into downtown Montreal, you’ve spent five or six hours anyway.
The bus is cheaper. Greyhound or Trailways will get you there. It’s faster too, usually around 7-8 hours. But you are on a bus. There’s no cafe car. You can't stand up and walk around. The train from New York to Montreal offers a level of dignity that a bus just can't match.
Then there’s driving. I-87 is a straight shot. It’s easy, but it’s boring. And parking in Old Montreal is a nightmare and incredibly expensive.
Seating strategy for the best views
If you want the "money shots" for your camera, sit on the left side (west side) when heading North. This gives you the river views for the first four hours. Once you get past Albany and hit the Lake Champlain area, the views shift. The train runs along the "Clinton County" side of the lake, and it’s honestly breathtaking. You see the water, the islands, and the Green Mountains of Vermont off in the distance.
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What to do when you arrive at Gare Centrale
You arrive in the basement of a skyscraper. It’s very "Blade Runner."
Montreal’s Central Station is right in the middle of downtown. You don’t need a taxi if you’re staying anywhere near Place Ville Marie or the Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth. You can literally walk into the Underground City (RÉSO) and get to half the hotels in the area without even putting on a coat.
If you’re heading to the Plateau or Mile End, the Metro is right there. The Bonaventure station is connected to the train terminal. Buy an "OPUS" card or just a 3-day pass. The Montreal Metro is clean, fast, and uses rubber tires so it’s weirdly quiet compared to the NYC Subway.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
- Download the Amtrak App: This is where you’ll get delay notifications. And there will probably be a delay. Just accept it now.
- Passport Readiness: Have it in your bag, not in your checked luggage. You will need it at Rouses Point. If you have a NEXUS card, it can speed things up slightly, but since everyone on the train is processed together, you’re still waiting for the guy in Row 12 to find his birth certificate.
- Power Up: Most seats have outlets, but they can be finicky. Bring a portable power bank just in case you end up in one of the older cars where the plug is loose.
- The Albany Switch: Sometimes they swap engines in Albany (moving from electric to diesel). This is a 20-30 minute stop. It’s your only chance to step onto the platform and breathe non-recycled air. Take it.
- Offline Entertainment: Since the cell service dies in the Adirondack Park, download your podcasts or bring that 800-page biography you’ve been meaning to read. This is the time to actually finish it.
Taking the train is a choice to value the journey over the destination. If you're in a rush, don't do this. If you want to see the transition from the skyscrapers of Manhattan to the silos of upstate New York and finally the French-Canadian charm of Quebec, it’s the only way to go.
Make sure you check the seasonal schedules. In the winter, the Adirondack can sometimes face "slow orders" because of the cold affecting the tracks. In the autumn, during "leaf peeping" season, the train is packed. If you’re going in October, book at least six weeks in advance or you’ll be paying double for the same seat.
Check your documents. Pack a heavy sweater (the AC on Amtrak is usually set to "Arctic"). Get ready for a very long, very beautiful day on the rails.