Shinjuku is a mess. If you’ve ever stepped out of the South Exit of Shinjuku Station, you know the feeling of being swallowed by a sea of gray concrete and neon. It's overwhelming. But then you see it—the massive, reddish-brown brick facade of Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo. It’s basically a city within a city. Most tourists stumble in looking for a bathroom or a quick snack, but they usually end up staying for four hours.
Why? Because it’s not just a department store.
People call it "Takashimaya," but the complex is actually a massive multi-use space that includes the Takashimaya Department Store, Nitori, Tokyu Hands (now technically rebranded as Hands), and the Kinokuniya bookstore. It opened back in 1996, and honestly, it changed the entire vibe of the south side of the station. Before this place existed, that area was kinda desolate. Now, it’s a premier shopping destination that somehow feels more breathable than the cramped alleys of Golden Gai or the frantic energy of Kabukicho.
The Depachika: Where Your Diet Goes to Die
If you go to Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo and don't visit the B1 floor, you’ve failed. Seriously. The depachika (basement food hall) is legendary. It’s a dizzying maze of high-end sushi, French pastries, seasonal Wagashi, and bento boxes that look like literal works of art.
You’ll see people lining up for specific seasonal releases. Maybe it’s a limited-edition melon from Shizuoka or a specific type of chestnut cream puff. It’s loud, it smells like heaven, and it’s expensive. But here’s a pro tip: if you go around 7:30 PM, right before they close, the staff starts slapping "half-off" stickers on the premium sushi sets. You can get a 3,000 yen sashimi platter for 1,500 yen. It’s the ultimate Shinjuku hack.
The variety is staggering. You have the traditional Japanese side with pickles (tsukemono) and dried seaweed, and then you turn a corner and you’re in a high-end Parisian bakery like FAUCHON. It reflects that weird, wonderful Japanese obsession with perfection, regardless of the cuisine’s origin.
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Why the 12th to 14th Floors are Better Than Most Viewpoints
Most people pay 2,000 yen to go up the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building or Tokyo Tower. Don't get me wrong, those views are great. But the "Restaurants Park" on floors 12 through 14 of Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo offers some of the best urban vistas for the price of a lunch set.
You can sit at a window-side table at a place like Katsukura (the tonkatsu there is life-changing, by the way) and watch the trains snake in and out of Shinjuku Station. It’s like a live-action model train set. The garden terrace on the 13th floor is an actual outdoor space where you can just... breathe. In Shinjuku, that's a luxury.
Hands and Kinokuniya: The "I Only Came for a Pen" Trap
Connecting to the main Takashimaya building is the massive Hands (formerly Tokyu Hands) annex. If you’re into stationery, DIY, or weird Japanese gadgets, this is your Mecca. You can find everything from high-tech skincare to miniature furniture for dollhouses and professional-grade woodworking tools.
Across the way is Kinokuniya. This isn't just a bookstore; it’s one of the largest in Japan. Their foreign language section on the 6th floor is massive. If you’re a homesick expat or a traveler looking for a specific Murakami translation, this is where you go. They also have a dedicated floor for comics and manga that puts most US comic shops to shame.
It’s easy to lose half a day just walking between these two buildings. You enter thinking you'll buy one Uni-ball Signo pen and you leave with a 50-liter backpack, three rolls of washi tape, and a hardbound photography book about abandoned Japanese islands.
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Tax-Free Shopping and the "Hello Kitty" Discount Card
Let's talk logistics because Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo is actually quite savvy about catering to tourists. If you bring your passport to the information desk (usually on the 2nd floor), you can get a "Takashimaya Shopper’s Card." It’s often branded with Hello Kitty.
It gives you a 5% discount on most items.
Combine that with the 10% consumption tax refund, and you're looking at a 15% discount on luxury goods. For brands like Issey Miyake or high-end cosmetics (Shiseido, SK-II), that’s a huge chunk of change. Just keep in mind that the tax refund process happens at a specific counter, and they do charge a small "service fee" (usually around 1.55%), so you don't get the full 10% back in cash, but it’s still the best deal you’ll find in the city.
It’s Not Just About Luxury
There’s a misconception that Takashimaya is only for people with "Ginza money." While you can certainly find 500,000 yen watches and designer handbags, the inclusion of Nitori (Japan’s answer to IKEA) and Uniqlo in the complex makes it accessible.
You can literally buy a designer silk kimono on one floor and a 500 yen pair of socks on another. This mix of high and low is what makes it so uniquely "Tokyo." It’s practical.
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Navigating the Shinjuku Maze
The biggest challenge is actually getting there. Shinjuku Station has over 200 exits. If you take the wrong one, you’ll end up in a different ward entirely.
- The Miracle Route: Look for signs for the New South Gate or the Miraina Tower Gate.
- If you find yourself at the "East Exit" (where the giant 3D cat billboard is), you’ll have to walk about 10 minutes south along the tracks.
- It’s also directly connected to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (Busta Shinjuku). If you’re arriving from the airport or an overnight bus from Kyoto, Takashimaya is the first civilized thing you’ll see.
Is it Better than Isetan?
This is the eternal debate. Isetan Shinjuku (the one with the classic old-school vibe) is definitely "cooler" from a fashion perspective. It’s where the trendsetters go. But Isetan is also incredibly cramped and can feel claustrophobic.
Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo is wider. It’s easier to navigate with a stroller or a suitcase. It feels more like a modern lifestyle hub than a rigid department store. If you want a relaxing afternoon where you can shop, eat, and see a view without fighting through a crowd of fashionistas, Takashimaya wins every time.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Start at the Top: Take the elevator straight to the 14th floor for the view, then work your way down. It’s easier on your legs.
- Get the Card First: Don’t buy anything until you get that 5% discount card from the 2nd-floor service desk. You need your physical passport (no photocopies).
- Eat Early or Late: The 12th-14th floor restaurants get slammed between 12:00 PM and 1:30 PM. Go at 11:00 AM when they open or wait until 2:00 PM.
- Check the Annex: Don't forget the separate building for Nitori and the bookstore. It’s connected by walkways, but it’s easy to miss if you stay in the main department store.
- Use the Lockers: There are refrigerated lockers in the basement. If you buy perishables but want to keep shopping, use them. They’re a lifesaver for keeping your sushi fresh while you browse for shoes.
Takashimaya Times Square Tokyo is a beast, but it’s a managed beast. It’s the kind of place that reminds you why physical retail still thrives in Japan while it's dying elsewhere. The service is impeccable, the food is unmatched, and the sheer scale of it is something you just have to experience. Just keep an eye on your watch, or you’ll go in for a snack and come out after the sun has gone down.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Verify Hours: Most of the department store closes at 8:00 PM, but the "Restaurants Park" usually stays open until 11:00 PM.
- Check the Weather: If it’s raining, the rooftop garden on the 13th floor will be closed, but the indoor walkways to the station remain dry.
- Budgeting: Set a hard limit before entering the depachika. Those $100 strawberries are tempting when you're hungry.