If you blink while driving down Highway 17 between Charleston and Georgetown, you’ll miss the turn for McClellanville. That would be a mistake. Tucked away on Pinckney Street, under a canopy of ancient live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, sits a weathered building that looks like it’s been there forever. That’s because it basically has. T W Graham & Co isn't just a restaurant; it’s a living relic of a South Carolina fishing village that refuses to turn into a tourist trap.
The building dates back to 1894. Back then, it was a general mercantile store. Over a century, it morphed. It sold sliced meats, then cheese, then wrapped sandwiches for the local shrimpers. Eventually, someone had the bright idea to get a fryer, and the rest is Lowcountry history.
The No-Frills Magic of McClellanville
Most people stumble upon this place by accident or after seeing it on the Travel Channel years ago when Andrew Zimmern swung by. It’s got a "pirate’s cove" vibe with artifacts, old nautical gear, and even a kayak hanging from the ceiling. Honestly, if you’re looking for white tablecloths or a "curated" dining experience, you’re in the wrong zip code. This is where you go when you want to taste what the Atlantic actually yielded that morning.
📖 Related: United States Air Traffic Control: Why the System is Straining Under Record Demand
Current owner Patrick "Packy" Runey took over from the legendary Pete and Claudia Kornack back in 2013. Taking over a local institution in a town of about 600 people is risky. The locals told him straight up: "You won't make it." But Runey, a Charleston native and obsessive turkey hunter, fit right in. He didn't try to "fix" what wasn't broken. He kept the core kitchen team, including Chef Josh McClellan, who started there as a teenager washing dishes.
What to Actually Order (and What to Skip)
Everyone talks about the seafood, and they should. But there’s a specific way to eat here if you want the real experience.
- The Crab Shrimp Corn Chowder: This is the heavy hitter. It’s thick, loaded with local catch, and basically a meal in a bowl.
- The Fried Shrimp: Don’t expect a massive mountain of breading. They use a light hand here. The goal is to taste the shrimp, which usually comes from nearby docks like Carolina Seafood or Livingston’s Bulls Bay.
- The Daily Catch: If they don't have a specific fish on the menu, it’s because it wasn't fresh enough that morning. Period. Packy is known to just not serve it if the quality isn't there.
- The Pies: This is the "secret" weapon. Packy’s wife, Stacey, makes the desserts. The Key Lime and Coconut Custard are staples, but if there’s a seasonal fruit pie on the board, get it.
The portions are generous. You've been warned. The atmosphere is casual to the point of feeling like you're in someone's living room, which is why the locals—shrimpers, writers, and retirees—all sit at the same tables.
Why It’s Still a "Hidden" Gem
McClellanville has stayed quiet because it wants to. It’s a working waterfront. When you eat at T W Graham & Co, you’re supporting a supply chain that involves real people on real boats. The restaurant is a member of the "Fresh on the Menu" program, meaning at least 25% of their ingredients are grown or caught in South Carolina. In reality, for the seafood, that number is usually closer to 100%.
There’s a nuance here that's often lost in modern dining. It’s not about "farm-to-table" as a marketing slogan. It’s about the fact that the guy who caught your dinner is probably sitting three stools down from you.
🔗 Read more: Pali Golf Course: Why Locals Keep This Windward Legend to Themselves
Knowing Before You Go
It is a tiny dining room. On a Friday or Saturday, there will be a wait. Don't get annoyed. Walk down Pinckney Street toward the water. Look at the shrimp boats. By the time you get back, your table will probably be ready.
They are generally closed on Sundays and Mondays. Their hours usually lean toward the lunch and early dinner crowd, often closing by 9:00 PM. Always check the chalkboard when you walk in; that's where the real truth is told regarding what the boats brought in that morning.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
If you are planning a trip, keep these three things in mind to make it worth the drive:
- Timing is Everything: Arrive around 11:30 AM to beat the local lunch rush or aim for a late lunch at 2:00 PM.
- Cash and Casual: While they take cards, this is a "flip-flops and t-shirts" kind of place. Don't overdress.
- Explore the Village: After eating, drive five minutes to the end of the road to see the Jeremy Creek docks. It puts the meal in perspective when you see the nets drying in the sun.
T W Graham & Co remains a rare breed of Southern eatery that hasn't traded its soul for a higher turnover rate. It’s slow, it’s loud, and the food tastes like the coast.