You've seen them trailing down bookshelves in every "aesthetic" home tour on social media. The swiss cheese hanging plant, known scientifically as Monstera adansonii, is basically the cooler, moodier cousin of the giant Monstera deliciosa. It’s got those iconic holes—botanists call them fenestrations—that make it look like someone took a hole puncher to a regular leaf. But here’s the thing: most people treat them like a standard ivy, and that’s why their plants end up looking like a sad, bald string with three leaves at the end.
It's frustrating.
I've spent years poking around tropical aroids, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that these plants are climbers by nature, not crawlers. When you force a Monstera adansonii into being a swiss cheese hanging plant, you’re fighting its DNA. It’ll do it, sure, but the leaves will get smaller and smaller as the vine gets longer. If you want those massive, heart-shaped leaves with complex holes, you actually have to give them something to grab onto.
The Mystery of the Holes (And Why They Matter)
Why does a plant evolve to have holes in its leaves? It seems counterintuitive. Why waste energy growing a leaf just to leave gaps?
Scientists like Christopher Muir have proposed that these fenestrations allow the plant to capture sunlight more unpredictably in the dappled understory of the rainforest. Think of it as a biological "net." Instead of one solid leaf blocking everything below it, the holes let light pass through to the lower foliage. It also helps the plant withstand heavy tropical rains and high winds without tearing the leaf tissue to shreds.
When you grow a swiss cheese hanging plant at home, you’re trying to replicate a very specific Peruvian or Central American jungle vibe. But your living room isn't the Amazon. The biggest mistake people make is thinking that "low light" means a dark corner. In the wild, "low light" is still brighter than the corner of your windowless bathroom.
If your Monstera adansonii isn't producing holes, it’s starving. It’s that simple.
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Light, Water, and the Humidity Myth
Let’s talk about the humidity "requirement." You’ll hear people scream that you need a humidifier running 24/7 or your plant will die. Honestly? Not really. While Monstera adansonii loves humidity (60% plus is their happy place), they are surprisingly adaptable. Unless you live in a literal desert or blast your heater all winter, your ambient home humidity is probably fine, provided you aren't letting the soil turn into a brick of peat.
Watering is where most people mess up.
Don't water on a schedule. Monday at 10:00 AM is not a biological imperative for a plant. Stick your finger in the dirt. Is the top inch dry? Cool, water it. Is it still damp? Walk away. These plants are susceptible to root rot, which usually manifests as yellowing leaves that feel a bit mushy.
If you see brown, crispy edges on the leaves of your swiss cheese hanging plant, it’s usually one of two things:
- You’re using tap water with too many minerals (chlorine/fluoride).
- The humidity is so low the plant is literally transpiring faster than it can drink.
Try using filtered water or just letting your tap water sit out overnight. It makes a difference. Trust me.
To Hang or To Climb? The Great Debate
This is where the "hanging plant" part of the name gets tricky.
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When you let a Monstera adansonii trail downward, the plant senses that it isn't "climbing" toward the light. In its natural habitat, finding a tree trunk triggers a hormonal response that tells the plant to grow bigger leaves. If it’s just dangling in the air, the plant stays in its "juvenile" phase.
You’ll notice the vines get thin. The leaves get tiny. Eventually, you just have a long green rope.
If you want the "Hanging" Look:
You have to prune. Regularly. Don't be scared. Snipping off the ends of the vines encourages the plant to push out new growth from the base, making the whole pot look fuller. You can take those cuttings, stick them in a glass of water, and you’ll have new roots in two weeks. It's basically free plants.
If you want the "Giant Leaf" Look:
Get a moss pole. Or a cedar plank. Anything the aerial roots can dig into. Once the plant feels a vertical surface, the leaves will double in size within a few months. It's a total transformation.
Soil Chemistry: Don't Use "All-Purpose" Dirt
If you bought your plant from a big-box store, it’s probably sitting in pure peat moss. That’s a death sentence for a swiss cheese hanging plant in a typical home environment. It stays wet for way too long.
Go for an "aroid mix." You can make it yourself quite easily. Mix one part potting soil, one part orchid bark, and one part perlite. Some people add horticultural charcoal or worm castings. The goal is a soil that looks like chunky granola. When you water it, the liquid should run out the bottom almost immediately. If it sits in a puddle, the roots can't breathe. They literally drown.
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Common Pests That Love Your Swiss Cheese Plant
Spider mites are the worst. They look like tiny grains of salt on the underside of the leaves. If you see fine webbing, you're already in trouble. Thrips are another nightmare—they look like tiny black slivers and they suck the life out of the cells, leaving silvery patches.
Keep some Neem oil or insecticidal soap on hand. But the best defense is just cleaning your leaves. Dust blocks the "pores" (stomata) of the leaf and gives pests a place to hide. Wipe them down with a damp cloth every time you water. It’s tedious, but your plant will look significantly shinier and stay healthier.
Dealing With Yellow Leaves
A yellow leaf isn't always a tragedy.
Plants are efficient. If an old leaf at the very base of the vine isn't getting enough light to pay for its own upkeep, the plant will "reabsorb" the nutrients and let that leaf die. That’s normal. But if the yellowing is happening at the tips or across the whole plant simultaneously, check the roots.
Gently pull the plant out of the pot. Are the roots white and firm? Great. Are they brown and slimy? You've got rot. Trim the slime, change the soil, and pray to the botanical gods.
Real-World Growth Expectations
Don't expect your swiss cheese hanging plant to look like a botanical garden specimen in three weeks. These plants grow in spurts. You might see zero movement for two months, and then suddenly, four new leaves appear in ten days.
Fertilize during the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. In the winter, let the plant rest. Don't force growth when the sun isn't there to support it.
Actionable Steps for a Thriving Plant
- Check your light. Move the plant to within three feet of an East or West-facing window. North is usually too dark; South might be too hot unless you have a sheer curtain.
- Stop the "Drip" Watering. When you water, soak the soil thoroughly until it drains out the bottom, then let it dry out. No "sips."
- Chop and Prop. If your plant is "leggy" (lots of vine, few leaves), cut it back. Place the nodes in water. Once roots are 2 inches long, plant them back into the original pot to create a bushier appearance.
- Evaluate the pot. Make sure there is a drainage hole. If you love a decorative ceramic pot that doesn't have a hole, keep the plant in its plastic nursery liner and just set it inside the fancy one.
- Look for "Nodes." A node is the little bump on the stem where a leaf or root grows. If you're cutting the plant to propagate it, you must have a node. A leaf without a node will never grow into a full plant; it’ll just stay a "zombie leaf" until it dies.
The Monstera adansonii is a survivor. It wants to grow. It wants to climb. If you give it the right balance of chunky soil and bright light, it will eventually turn your bookshelf into a jungle canopy. Just remember that it's a living thing, not a piece of furniture. It’ll tell you what it needs if you know how to look at the leaves.