So, you want a pool. It starts with a vibe—a vision of crystal blue water, a cold drink in your hand, and the kids actually getting off their phones for five minutes. But honestly? Swimming pools for houses are basically massive, liquid-filled construction projects that can either be the best thing you ever did or a giant concrete hole that eats your retirement savings. People get obsessed with the aesthetics. They look at Pinterest boards of infinity edges and dark pebble-sheen finishes. Yet, nobody talks about the soil density in your backyard or the fact that a heat pump in a humid climate performs totally differently than one in the desert.
Getting a pool isn't just about digging a hole. It's about engineering.
The fiberglass vs. concrete debate is actually a lie
Most pool contractors will try to push you toward whatever they specialize in. If they own a shotcrete rig, they’ll tell you fiberglass feels like a bathtub. If they sell shells, they’ll claim concrete will crack the moment the ground shifts an inch. The truth? Both have massive flaws.
Concrete (gunite or shotcrete) is the king of customization. You want a tanning ledge that looks like a natural sandbar? Concrete is your only real option. But here is the thing: it’s porous. Because it’s porous, algae loves it. You’ll spend significantly more on chemicals over a ten-year span than you would with other materials. You also have to "acid wash" it every few years and eventually replaster the whole thing, which is a messy, five-figure headache.
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Fiberglass is faster. Way faster. You can literally have a pool in two weeks if the permit office plays nice. The gelcoat finish is non-porous, so the pH stays stable and the water feels like silk. But you’re limited. You can’t have a pool wider than 16 feet because it has to fit on a flatbed truck to get to your house. If you have a narrow side yard or low-hanging power lines, a fiberglass shell might be physically impossible to install.
Then there’s vinyl liner. People look down on it. They think it’s "cheap." Honestly, in cold climates like the Northeast or Midwest, vinyl is a tank. It handles the freeze-thaw cycle better than concrete ever will. Just don't let the dog jump in with long claws, or you’re looking at a $4,000 replacement bill for a shredded liner.
Hidden costs that kill the "fun" factor
You’ve probably budgeted for the pool itself. Maybe $60,000 to $120,000 depending on your zip code. But swimming pools for houses have "attachment costs" that catch people off guard.
Fencing is the big one. Most local codes require a four-foot or five-foot safety fence with self-closing gates. If you want a fence that doesn’t look like a prison yard, you’re spending another $8,000 to $15,000. Then there is the dirt. When you dig a pool, you create a literal mountain of "spoils." Some builders include dirt haul-away in the price; others leave you with a 20-ton pile of clay and a "good luck" handshake. Moving that dirt can cost thousands if you have to pay by the truckload.
Electricity and the "hidden" monthly bill
Variable speed pumps are now federally mandated in the U.S. because they save so much energy. That’s great. But if you’re heating a 20,000-gallon pool with a propane heater in October? You might as well just set $100 bills on fire in your backyard.
Natural gas is cheaper, but the line run from your meter to the pool equipment can be pricey. If your meter is on the opposite side of the house, you're paying for a trench, copper piping, and a plumber's labor. I've seen gas line runs cost more than the actual heater. It's a logistical nightmare that needs to be planned before the first shovel hits the ground.
Saltwater isn't actually chlorine-free
This is the biggest misconception in the industry. People say, "I want a saltwater pool because I'm allergic to chlorine."
Listen. A saltwater pool is a chlorine pool.
The salt cell (a chlorine generator) uses electrolysis to turn dissolved salt into hypochlorous acid. It’s the same chemical you buy in a jug at the pool store. The difference is the delivery. Because the salt cell produces chlorine at a steady, low drip, you don't get those "chloramines"—that nasty "pool smell" that stings your eyes. It feels better on your skin. It doesn't bleach your swimsuit as fast. But you are still swimming in chlorine.
Also, salt is corrosive. If you have cheap limestone coping or certain types of natural stone waterfalls, the salt will eventually eat them. You have to seal your stone every year or watch it crumble into white powder.
Why your backyard might say no
Not every lot is "pool ready."
- Easements: Check your survey. If a utility company has a right to run a pipe through your yard, you can't build over it.
- The Water Table: If you dig and hit water at four feet, you have a major problem. The pool will literally want to float out of the ground like a boat when it's empty. You'll need a "hydrostatic valve" or a permanent dewatering system.
- Access: Can a skid-steer or a backhoe get into your yard? If they have to take down your neighbor's fence or use a massive crane to lift a fiberglass shell over your house, the price just spiked by $10,000.
Automation is the only way to stay sane
Back in the day, you had to walk out to the equipment pad, turn three valves, and flip a switch just to get the spa bubbling. Now? If you aren't using an automation system like Pentair’s IntelliCenter or Hayward’s OmniLogic, you’re doing it wrong.
You want to be able to turn on the heater from your phone while you’re at dinner so the water is 90 degrees by the time you get home. You want the LED lights to change colors with a tap. This isn't just about being lazy; it's about monitoring your chemicals and pump health in real-time. Modern sensors can tell you if your salt level is low or if your filter is clogged before the water turns green and ruins your weekend.
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Maintenance reality check
Unless you’re paying a "pool guy" $150–$250 a month, you are the pool guy. You’ll be testing the water, scrubbing the tile line, and emptying the skimmer baskets. If you live under oak trees or pines, this becomes a part-time job. Robotic cleaners have come a long way—the Maytronics Dolphin line is a beast—but they won't do everything. You still have to balance the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels, or your chlorine will just burn off in the sun in two hours.
Making the final call
Don't buy the biggest pool that fits. A huge pool is harder to heat and uses more chemicals. A "spool" (small pool/spa hybrid) or a cocktail pool is often plenty for adults who just want to cool off. Think about how you’ll actually use the space. If you like hosting big parties, you need more "decking" than "water." If you have kids who want to play volleyball, a "sport entry" (shallow on both ends, deep in the middle) is way better than a traditional deep end.
Actionable Next Steps
- Get a professional survey: Don't guess where your property lines are. Find out where your septic lines, gas lines, and easements sit before you call a builder.
- Interview three builders, but look at their "subs": Most pool companies don't do the work themselves. They hire subcontractors. Ask who does their plumbing and steel. If they use the same crews for ten years, that’s a win.
- Prioritize the "floor": Spend the extra money on a high-quality interior finish like PebbleTec. It lasts twice as long as standard white plaster and hides dirt better.
- Check your electrical panel: A pool heater and multiple pumps can pull 100+ amps. You might need a sub-panel or a full service upgrade from your electric company, which can take months to schedule.
- Plan for the "after": Landscaping and furniture will cost another 20% of the pool's price. If you spend your last dollar on the water, you'll be sitting on a plastic lawn chair in a mud pit for a year.