You’re driving through the Sierra Nevada, heading north or east, and suddenly the pines thin out. The air gets sharper. Drier. You hit a town that feels like a stubborn holdout from a different era of California history. That’s Susanville.
It's the seat of Lassen County. It's a place where the jagged peaks of the Sierra meet the vast, empty expanse of the Great Basin. Most people just gas up here on their way to Reno or Klamath Falls. They're missing the point. Susanville isn't just a pit stop; it’s a living museum of the "other" California—the one that doesn't care about tech hubs or coastal trends.
What You’re Actually Seeing in Susanville
When you roll into town on Highway 36 or 395, the first thing you notice isn't the scenery. It’s the prisons. High Desert State Prison and the California Correctional Center loom large here. For decades, they've been the economic engine of the region. It's a complicated relationship. While the state has moved to close parts of these facilities, the town’s identity is deeply intertwined with the "corrections" industry. It’s gritty. It’s real.
But look past the razor wire.
Susanville sits at about 4,200 feet. That elevation matters. It means you get four distinct seasons, which is a rarity for much of the Golden State. You have the Susan River cutting right through the heart of the city. You have the Bizz Johnson National Recreation Trail, which is honestly one of the best rail-to-trails conversions in the entire United States.
It's named after Harold T. "Bizz" Johnson, a former congressman. The trail follows the old Fernley and Lassen Branch Line of the Southern Pacific Railroad. It winds through the Susan River Canyon, crossing 12 bridges and popping through two massive tunnels. If you’re a mountain biker or a gravel grinder, this is your Mecca. The grade is gentle—usually around 3%—but the views of the rugged canyon walls and the smell of the sagebrush are intoxicating.
The Lassen County Context
Lassen County is huge. We’re talking over 4,700 square miles with fewer than 35,000 people. A lot of that land is public. You’ve got the Lassen National Forest, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) territory, and the iconic Lassen Volcanic National Park just an hour to the west.
People often confuse Susanville with the park. They aren't the same. The park is a geological wonderland of bubbling mud pots and cinder cones. Susanville is the base camp. It’s where you buy your supplies, grab a burger at the local diner, and maybe stay at a motel that hasn't changed its signage since 1978.
There is a sense of rugged independence here. This area was once part of the "Nataqua Territory," an unrecognized break-away republic formed in the 1850s because the local settlers didn't want to pay taxes to either California or Nevada. That "leave us alone" energy still vibrates through the streets of Susanville today.
The Bizz Johnson Trail: A Deeper Look
Let’s talk about the trail again because it’s the crown jewel of Susanville Lassen County CA. Most people start at the historic Susanville Depot. It’s a classic wooden structure that serves as a visitor center.
From there, you head west.
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The first few miles are easy, paved or hard-packed gravel. You’ll see locals walking their dogs or kids on BMX bikes. But as you get deeper into the canyon, the world quiets down. The river is your constant companion. In the fall, the cottonwoods and willows turn a brilliant, fiery gold that contrasts perfectly with the basalt cliffs.
The tunnels are the highlight. They are dark. They are cool. Even in the middle of a scorching July afternoon, you’ll feel a 20-degree drop in temperature the second you step inside. You’ll want a light, but honestly, there’s something thrilling about riding through the pitch black, trusting the path beneath your tires.
Why the High Desert Climate is Tricky
Don't let the California sun fool you. Susanville is high desert.
The temperature swings are violent. You can see 90°F during the day and have it drop to 40°F the moment the sun dips behind the Diamond Mountains. If you’re visiting in the winter, be ready for snow. Real snow. Not the slushy stuff you get in the foothills. We're talking feet, not inches.
Lassen County is prone to inversions. Sometimes, the cold air gets trapped in the Honey Lake Valley, and it stays gray and foggy for days while the higher elevations are basking in sunshine. It's a meteorological quirk that dictates everything from what you wear to how you drive.
The Local Economy and the "Prison Town" Label
It’s impossible to write about Susanville without addressing the elephant in the room: the prisons.
For years, Susanville was synonymous with incarceration. When the state announced plans to close the California Correctional Center (CCC), the town went into a tailspin. Legal battles ensued. The city sued the state. Why? Because hundreds of jobs were at stake. In a town of 15,000, losing a major employer is a death knell.
But Susanville is pivoting.
There is a concerted effort to lean into outdoor recreation. They’re looking at the success of places like Bend, Oregon, or Bishop, California. They have the bones for it. The Diamond Mountain Speedway brings in racing fans. The Susanville Ranch Park offers miles of singletrack for hikers and bikers right on the edge of town.
Real Talk: Where to Eat and Stay
If you're looking for five-star luxury, keep driving to Lake Tahoe. Susanville is about "real."
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You go to the Lassen Ale Works. It's located in the historic Pioneer Saloon building. The wood is dark, the history is thick, and the beer is cold. It’s the kind of place where ranchers, prison guards, and mountain bikers all sit at the same bar.
For breakfast, you hit Lassen Drive-In or one of the small cafes along Main Street. You want the kind of place where the coffee is bottomless and the hash browns are crispy.
Staying here usually means a franchise motel or a vintage motor court. The Roseberry House Bed & Breakfast is a rare exception if you want something with a bit more soul. It’s a beautifully restored Queen Anne-style home that reminds you that Susanville was once a very wealthy timber town.
Exploring the Surrounding Wilderness
Once you've seen the town, get out.
Drive south to Honey Lake. It’s a terminal sink, meaning water flows in but doesn't flow out to the ocean. Depending on the year, it’s either a massive, shallow lake teeming with migratory birds or a white, alkaline salt flat that looks like the surface of the moon. The Fleming Unit of the Honey Lake Wildlife Area is a sleeper hit for photographers. Sandhill cranes, pelicans, and bald eagles are regular visitors.
Then there’s Eagle Lake.
Located about 15 miles north of Susanville, this is the second-largest natural lake completely within California. It’s famous for the Eagle Lake Trout. These aren't your average fish. They’ve evolved to survive in the lake’s highly alkaline water. They grow big. They fight hard. Anglers come from all over the country to try and hook one.
The lake is surrounded by pine forests and volcanic rock. It feels ancient. It's much quieter than Tahoe or even Almanor. If you want to disappear for a weekend, this is where you go.
The Timber Legacy
Before the prisons, there was timber.
The Red River Lumber Company basically built this region. They operated what was once the largest sawmill in the world nearby. You can still see the remnants of this era in the architecture of the older homes and the layout of the town. The Susanville Railroad Depot is a direct link to that past, when trainloads of massive Ponderosa pine logs were shipped out to build the growing cities of the West.
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Today, the timber industry is a shadow of its former self, but the "logger" spirit remains. There’s a toughness to the people here. You see it in the annual Lassen County Fair—one of the best old-school fairs in the state, complete with a rodeo and livestock auctions.
Misconceptions About Susanville Lassen County CA
People think it’s just a desert. It’s not.
People think it’s just a "prison town." It’s more than that.
There’s a misconception that there’s nothing to do. If you like shopping malls and movie premieres, that’s true. But if you like the smell of sage after a rainstorm, the sound of a river cutting through a basalt canyon, or the sight of the Milky Way without light pollution, Susanville is a goldmine.
It’s also surprisingly affordable. In a state where a shack costs a million dollars, you can still find a decent life here. That’s drawing in a new generation of remote workers and "rugged individualists" who are tired of the coastal grind.
Actionable Advice for Your Visit
If you're planning a trip to Susanville Lassen County CA, don't just wing it.
- Check the Weather: Seriously. A sunny morning can turn into a blizzard by 4:00 PM in October. Pack layers.
- Bike the Bizz: If you don't have a bike, rent one or just walk the first few miles of the Bizz Johnson Trail from the Depot.
- Visit in October: The fall colors in the Susan River Canyon are world-class and there are zero crowds.
- Fuel Up: If you’re heading north toward Oregon or east toward Nevada, Susanville is your last reliable spot for gas and groceries for a long stretch.
- Respect the Land: Much of the area around Susanville is active ranch land or sensitive wildlife habitat. Stick to the trails and follow "Leave No Trace" principles.
The Real Susanville
Susanville isn't trying to impress you. It’s a town that knows exactly what it is. It’s a place of transition—between the mountains and the desert, between a timber past and an uncertain future.
Whether you’re there for the fishing at Eagle Lake, the history of the Nataqua Territory, or a long ride on the Bizz Johnson, you’ll find a version of California that is increasingly hard to find: one that is quiet, rugged, and unapologetically itself.
Stop for more than gas next time. Walk the Main Street. Look up at the Diamond Mountains. You might find that the "crossroads" is actually the destination.
Next Steps for Your Trip
- Download Offline Maps: Cell service in Lassen County is notoriously spotty once you leave the main highway corridors.
- Check the BLM Eagle Lake Field Office: They provide the most up-to-date info on trail conditions and seasonal closures for the surrounding public lands.
- Visit the Lassen County Historical Society Museum: Located right next to the park on North Weatherlow Street, it's the best place to understand the weird, rebellious history of the Nataqua Republic.