You’re gasping for air at 9,400 feet. The granite is glowing—really glowing—a shade of pink that feels fake. This is the Sunrise High Sierra Camp experience, and honestly, it’s one of the most polarizing places in Yosemite National Park. Some people spend years entering the lottery just for one night here. Others hike past it, wondering why anyone would pay to sleep in a canvas tent when you can just throw a bivy sack on a rock for free.
But there is something deeply weird and wonderful about this specific camp. It sits on a ledge overlooking Long Meadow, tucked away in the wilderness between Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley. It’s part of a loop. A legendary one. The High Sierra Camps are a series of five (historically six) backcountry lodging sites that allow you to go deep into the woods without carrying 40 pounds of gear. You get a bed. You get a roof. Most importantly, you get a hot meal that you didn’t have to dehydrate in a vacuum bag six months ago.
The High Altitude Reality of Sunrise High Sierra Camp
Let's be real about the geography here. Sunrise is the highest of the camps. Because of that, the weather is erratic. I've seen it dump snow in July. I've also seen people get nasty sunburns while sitting in the shade of a lodgepole pine because the atmosphere is just that thin.
The camp itself is a cluster of canvas-covered tent cabins. They aren't luxury. If you’re expecting the Ritz, you’re in the wrong zip code. You’re sleeping on a steel frame bed with a mattress. You’re sharing that space with strangers unless you’ve booked out the whole tent. It’s communal. It’s dusty. And because it's Yosemite, there is always the faint, lingering smell of bear canisters and pine needles.
Most people arrive here via the Sunrise Trailhead at Tenaya Lake. It’s a roughly 7-mile hike. That doesn't sound bad on paper, right? Wrong. The first few miles are a relentless series of switchbacks that climb about 1,000 feet. It’s called "The Clouds Rest junction climb," and it will humble you. Your lungs will burn. You’ll find yourself questioning every life choice that led you to this specific trail. But then, the trail levels out into these massive, sweeping meadows.
Why the Lottery System is a Nightmare
You can’t just go to a website and book a stay at Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Well, you can, but you probably won't get in. Demand is absurd. The National Park Service and the concessionaire (currently Yosemite Hospitality) use a lottery system that usually opens in the fall for the following summer.
Thousands apply. A few hundred get in.
Because of the heavy snowpack in the High Sierra, the "season" for these camps is incredibly short. We’re talking July through early September, tops. Sometimes, if the winter was particularly brutal—like the record-breaking snow years we've had recently—the camp doesn't even open. The pipes freeze. The canvas rips. The staff can't get the mules up the trails to stock the kitchen.
The Mule Trains and the Food
Speaking of mules. Everything at Sunrise comes in on the back of an animal. Every egg, every steak, every roll of toilet paper.
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This is part of the magic. There is a specific rhythm to life at the camp. You’ll hear the bells of the pack trains before you see them. The packers are some of the last of a dying breed, navigating treacherous granite passes with teams of mules that are smarter than most humans.
Dinner is served family-style. You sit at long tables with people from all over the world. You might be next to a tech CEO from San Jose, a school teacher from Munich, and a professional climber who’s just passing through. It’s one of the few places left where digital distractions disappear. There’s no cell service. No Wi-Fi. Just the sound of forks hitting plates and stories about how many marmots tried to steal someone's socks at Cathedral Lakes.
The food is surprisingly good. It's hearty. Think beef bourguignon or thick stews and fresh-baked bread. They have to cater to people who have just burned 3,000 calories hiking over a 10,000-foot pass.
Dealing With Altitude and Health
This isn't just a walk in the park. High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) are real risks in the High Sierra. While 9,400 feet isn't Everest, it's high enough to trigger Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
I’ve seen hikers arrive at Sunrise High Sierra Camp looking absolutely ghostly.
- Headache? Check.
- Nausea? Check.
- Total loss of appetite? Definitely.
The best way to handle this is to spend a night or two at Tuolumne Meadows (8,600 feet) before heading to Sunrise. Drink more water than you think you need. Then drink some more. Avoid booze on your first night at the camp, even if the "wilderness high" makes you want a beer. Your body is already struggling to process oxygen; don't give it poison to deal with at the same time.
The Landscape: More Than Just Trees
The camp is situated near the Sunrise Lakes. Most people think they're just one big lake. Nope. There are three.
The lower lake is where most people stop. It’s beautiful, sure. But the upper lakes are where the real silence is. The granite shelves around these lakes hold the heat of the sun long after it drops below the horizon. If you’re brave enough to jump in, be prepared for a literal heart-stopping experience. It’s snowmelt. It’s cold enough to make your skin turn blue in seconds.
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But it’s also the best "shower" you’ll get out there. While the camp has a small shower house, water is extremely limited. Some years, when the drought hits hard, the showers are shut off entirely to conserve the spring that feeds the camp.
Common Misconceptions About the Loop
A lot of people think you must do the whole 5-camp loop to stay at Sunrise. That’s not true. You can do a "point-to-point" or just an out-and-back from Tenaya Lake.
Another mistake? People think the High Sierra Camps are "glamping."
Let's clarify:
- You have to carry your own sleeping bag liner.
- You share a tent with strangers (usually).
- You use a communal bathroom.
- You have to hike your trash out.
It’s "soft" wilderness, but it’s still wilderness. The camp is a basecamp, not a resort.
The Best Way to Actually Get a Bed
Since the lottery is a statistical long shot, here is the insider secret: The Waiting List and Cancellations.
People cancel all the time. Life happens. Knees blow out. Families decide they actually hate hiking. If you are flexible and call the Yosemite reservations line frequently—especially in the weeks leading up to your desired dates—you can often snag a spot.
There's also the "Global" booking window that opens after the lottery winners have confirmed their spots. If you’re fast on the keyboard at 7:00 AM on the day those remaining spots are released, you might get lucky.
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The Hike To Clouds Rest
If you are staying at Sunrise High Sierra Camp, you are in the perfect position to summit Clouds Rest.
Most people do Clouds Rest as a grueling day hike from the valley or Tenaya Lake. But from Sunrise, you have a massive head start. You can get to the summit before the crowds arrive. The view from Clouds Rest is, in my professional opinion, better than the view from Half Dome. You’re looking down on Half Dome. You can see the entire Yosemite Valley laid out like a map.
The "Spine" of Clouds Rest is a narrow ridge of granite with 4,000-foot drops on either side. It’s not for the faint of heart. If you have vertigo, maybe stay back at the meadow and watch the marmots.
Environmental Impact and the Future
There is an ongoing debate about whether these camps should even exist. Organizations like Sierra Club have historically had mixed feelings. On one hand, the camps concentrate human impact into small areas rather than having people camp everywhere. On the other hand, the mule trains erode the trails and the camps require a lot of infrastructure in designated Wilderness areas.
In recent years, the Park Service has had to scale back operations. Water shortages are the biggest threat. Sunrise, because it relies on a delicate spring system, is usually the first camp to be threatened by low snowpack years.
When you stay there, you’re part of a legacy that goes back to the 1920s when Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service, wanted to get people into the backcountry so they would vote to protect it. It worked. But the cost is constant maintenance in an environment that wants to tear everything down.
Essential Gear for Sunrise
Don't overpack. You’re getting fed. You have a bed.
- A high-quality silk or fleece liner: Mandatory for the beds.
- A headlamp with extra batteries: It gets pitch black up there.
- A water filter: Even though the camp has water, you’ll need it for the hike in.
- Layers: I’m talking base layer, mid-layer, and a puffy jacket. Even in August.
- Sun protection: The UV at 9,000 feet is brutal.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
If you want to make this happen, you need to act months in advance.
- Mark your calendar for November. This is typically when the lottery applications for the following summer open. Don't miss the window.
- Pick "off-peak" dates. Everyone wants to go in August. If you aim for early July (and take the risk of snow) or early September, your odds increase slightly.
- Train for elevation. If you live at sea level, find the tallest stairs or hills you can and climb them with a pack. The thin air at Sunrise is the #1 reason people don't enjoy their stay.
- Check the "Cancellations" page daily. If you didn't win the lottery, the Yosemite Hospitality website often updates with last-minute openings.
- Pack for the "High Sierra" shower. Since water is scarce, bring biodegradable wipes. You might not get a real shower, and "camping clean" is a state of mind.
Staying at Sunrise High Sierra Camp is about more than just a bed in the woods. It’s about the silence of the granite. It’s about the way the light hits the peaks of the Cathedral Range. It’s a chance to see Yosemite the way it looked a hundred years ago, before the traffic jams in the valley became a national news story. Go for the views, stay for the stories, and prepare to be breathless—both from the scenery and the lack of oxygen.