You’re standing at the base of the Black Hills, looking up at what everyone calls the crown jewel of the South Dakota skyline. Most people know it as Harney Peak—or at least they did until 2016 when it was officially renamed Black Elk Peak to honor the Oglala Lakota medicine man. But within the broader context of the Summit Peak Scenic Area, there is a weird mix of confusion and pure, unadulterated beauty that most tourists completely gloss over because they’re too busy staring at their GPS.
It’s high. 7,244 feet high, to be exact. That makes it the highest point in the United States east of the Rockies.
Honestly, the "scenic area" isn't just one spot. It’s a massive, sprawling ecosystem of granite spires, ponderosa pines, and some of the most frustratingly unpredictable weather you’ll ever encounter in the Midwest. I’ve seen people start the trek in shorts and end it shivering in a sudden sleet storm. That’s the thing about this part of the world; it doesn't care about your itinerary. If you’re planning to visit, you’ve got to stop thinking of it as a checklist item and start seeing it as a living, breathing landscape that requires a bit of respect.
The Reality of the Summit Peak Scenic Area Hike
Let’s get one thing straight: the "easiest" route is still a workout. You’re likely starting at Sylvan Lake. It’s beautiful. It’s iconic. It’s also where every single person with a rental car decides to park. If you get there after 9:00 AM, good luck. You’ll be walking a mile just to get to the trailhead.
The trail itself—Trail 9—is the standard. It’s about 7 miles round trip. It’s not "hard" in the sense of rock climbing, but the elevation gain is persistent. It wears you down. You think you’re close, then you turn a corner and see another switchback. But the payoff? The stone fire tower at the top is something out of a Tolkien novel. Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the late 1930s, that tower is a testament to what humans can do with local stone and a lot of grit.
Why Trail 4 is Secretly Better
Everyone takes Trail 9. It’s the highway of the Summit Peak Scenic Area. But if you want to actually see the "scenic" part without dodging selfie sticks, you take Trail 4 on the way up and Trail 9 on the way down. Or vice versa. Trail 4 takes you past the Cathedral Spires. These are jagged, vertical granite needles that look like they were dropped from the sky. They are terrifyingly beautiful.
Most hikers miss the Spires because they’re so focused on the summit. Don't be that person.
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The Spires are a geologist’s dream. We’re talking about 1.7 billion-year-old granite. To put that in perspective, the dinosaurs were around roughly 65 to 250 million years ago. This rock is ancient. It’s sturdy. It’s why the Black Hills exist while the surrounding plains eroded away into nothingness. When you touch that stone, you’re touching the literal core of the continent.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Weather
I’ve heard people say, "It’s South Dakota, how bad can it be?"
Famous last words.
The Black Hills create their own microclimate. Because the Summit Peak Scenic Area rises so abruptly from the plains, it forces air upward, causing rapid cooling and condensation. This is called orographic lift. Basically, it means it can be 85 degrees and sunny in Rapid City, but by the time you reach the summit, you’re staring down a localized thunderstorm with lightning that wants to turn that stone fire tower into a giant conductor.
If you see clouds turning that weird, bruised-purple color, turn around. There is no prize for getting struck by lightning at 7,000 feet.
Wildlife and the "Buffalo" Myth
First off, they’re bison, not buffalo.
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Second, while you might see them near the Custer State Park borders or along the Wildlife Loop, you aren't going to see a herd of bison hanging out at the top of the peak. They’re heavy. They like grass. They aren't mountain goats. What you will see are mountain goats, though. They were introduced to the area in the 1920s—literally, a few escaped from a zoo shipment—and now they own the place. They are surprisingly chill, but don’t feed them. They have salt cravings and will lick the sweat off your hiking poles if you let them. It’s gross. Don’t encourage it.
The Cultural Weight of the Land
You cannot talk about the Summit Peak Scenic Area without acknowledging why it’s sacred. To the Lakota, this isn’t just a "scenic area." It is Paha Sapa, the heart of everything that is. The renaming to Black Elk Peak wasn't just a bureaucratic flip; it was a recognition of the vision Black Elk had there when he was nine years old.
He described it as the "hoop of the world."
When you get to the summit, you’ll see colorful pieces of cloth tied to trees. These are prayer cloths. They aren't trash. They aren't decorations for your Instagram background. They are deeply personal offerings. Leave them alone. I’ve seen tourists trying to untie them or take them as souvenirs, and honestly, it’s the quickest way to show everyone you have zero situational awareness.
Practical Logistics You’ll Actually Need
If you’re coming from out of state, you’re probably flying into Rapid City (RAP). From there, it’s about an hour's drive. You need a Custer State Park pass. It’s usually around $20 for a week-long vehicle permit.
- Water: Bring more than you think. There are no drinking fountains on the trail. I recommend at least two liters per person.
- Shoes: Do not wear flip-flops. I see it every year. The trail is dusty and full of loose granite scree. You will slip, and you will bruise your ego (and your tailbone).
- Timing: Start at 6:00 AM. Seriously. By noon, the sun is brutal, and the crowds are thick.
The Summit Peak Scenic Area is part of the Black Elk Wilderness, which means motorized vehicles and bicycles are banned. It’s quiet. Or at least, it should be. If you’re the person bringing a Bluetooth speaker on the trail, please know that everyone else is judging you.
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The Winter Option
Hardly anyone visits in January or February. If you’re experienced with cold-weather hiking, the Black Hills in winter are hauntingly quiet. The granite looks even more dramatic against the white snow. However, the trail becomes an ice rink. You need micro-spikes for your boots. Without them, you’re just asking for a helicopter ride you can't afford.
Hidden Spots Near the Peak
If you have the energy after hitting the summit, check out Little Devils Tower. It’s a spur trail off the main path. The view is arguably better than the main peak because you can actually see the fire tower from a distance, which gives you a better sense of scale. It requires a bit of a scramble at the end—you’ll be using your hands to pull yourself up some rocks—but it’s worth the extra mile of effort.
Then there’s the Sunday Gulch Trail. It starts near Sylvan Lake too. It doesn't go to the summit, but it descends into a boulder-strewn canyon that feels like a prehistoric jungle. It’s damp, cool, and covered in moss. It’s a great way to cool down after the exposed heat of the Summit Peak Scenic Area ridges.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
Stop over-planning and just do these things:
- Check the SNOTEL data: Before you go, look up the Black Hills SNOTEL sites online. It will tell you the real-time temperature and snow depth at higher elevations.
- Download offline maps: Cell service is non-existent once you dip into the valleys between the granite ridges. AllTrails or Gaia GPS are your friends here.
- Pack a windbreaker: Even if it's 90 degrees at the bottom, the wind at the fire tower can be 30-40 mph.
- Respect the silence: When you reach the top, take five minutes to just sit. No phone. No talking. Just listen to the wind through the pines.
The Summit Peak Scenic Area isn't just a destination; it's a transition point between the flat reality of the Great Plains and the rugged mystery of the West. It deserves more than a cursory glance from a car window. Put on your boots, pack your water, and get up there before the tour buses arrive.