You’ve heard the jokes. The "forgotten borough." The land of orange tans and the Fresh Kills landfill (which, by the way, is currently being transformed into a massive park). But if you actually spend a Friday afternoon in July taking the ferry across the harbor, you’ll realize the punchlines are about twenty years out of date. Summer on Staten Island isn't just a cheaper version of a Brooklyn weekend; it is a weird, lush, coastal, and deeply authentic slice of New York that most people miss because they’re too busy staring at the Statue of Liberty from the boat deck and immediately turning around to go back to Manhattan.
It's hot. The humidity rolls off the Kill Van Kull like a wet blanket. But then you hit the South Shore, and suddenly there’s a breeze.
Most New Yorkers don't even know there are actual beaches here. Not just "piers with sand," but miles of boardwalk and ocean. If you want to understand the city's pulse when the heat index hits triple digits, you have to look at the places where people actually live, eat, and hide from the sun. Staten Island is where the suburbs and the city had a messy, beautiful collision.
📖 Related: Why the Alton Towers Black Hole Still Haunts Our Theme Park Memories
The Boardwalk Reality Check
South Beach and Midland Beach are the heavy hitters. You’ve got the Franklin D. Roosevelt Boardwalk, which stretches about 2.5 miles. It’s long. It’s wooden. It smells like salt air and cheap cigars. Unlike the chaotic, elbow-to-elbow energy of Coney Island, summer on Staten Island offers a bit of breathing room. You can actually find a spot for your towel without kicking a stranger in the head.
But here’s the thing: the water quality can be hit or miss. The NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene monitors this stuff daily. Before you dive in, you check the "Beach Water Quality" portal. If there’s been a heavy rain, the runoff makes things... questionable. Locals know this. They sit on the sand, they grill in the designated areas near Miller Field, but they don't always jump in.
The Mystery of Hoffman and Swinburne Islands
Look out from the shore. You’ll see two tiny islands sitting in the Lower New York Bay. They look like something out of a post-apocalyptic movie. These are Hoffman and Swinburne. Back in the late 1800s and early 1900s, they were quarantine stations for immigrants arriving at Ellis Island who had scary diseases like cholera or yellow fever. Now? They’re bird sanctuaries. You can’t go there. Don’t try to kayak out there unless you want a very stern talking-to from the Coast Guard. It’s one of those "only in New York" sights—ghost islands sitting right off a public beach where kids are eating Italian ice.
Eating Through the Heat
If you aren't eating pizza or Sri Lankan food, you're doing summer on Staten Island wrong. Period.
Staten Island has one of the largest Sri Lankan populations outside of Sri Lanka itself. It’s centered mostly in the Tompkinsville and Stapleton neighborhoods. Places like Lakruwana on Bay Street are legendary. Inside, it looks like a museum. The food is spicy enough to make you forget the humidity. During the summer, their weekend buffet is the move. You get lamprais—meat and rice lamp-wrapped in banana leaves—and it changes your entire perspective on what "island food" means in NYC.
Then there’s the pizza.
- Joe & Pat’s: Paper-thin crust. If you like a "Staten Island thin" pie, this is the gold standard.
- Denino’s: Located in Port Richmond. It’s been there since 1937. You get the scungilli and a pie.
- Lee’s Tavern: It’s across from the Dongan Hills train station. No frills. It feels like 1974 inside.
People argue about these spots like they’re discussing religion. It’s intense. Honestly, the "best" pizza is whichever one you can get a seat at without waiting two hours in the sun.
The Greenbelt: Not Your Average City Park
Manhattan has Central Park. Staten Island has the Greenbelt. We're talking 2,800 acres of interconnected public parkland and natural areas. It’s three times the size of Central Park.
If you go into the High Rock Park section in July, it’s ten degrees cooler under the canopy. You’ll find red-backed salamanders under rotting logs and maybe a snapping turtle in a pond. It’s rugged. You can actually get lost here, which is a rare luxury in a city of 8 million people. The "Yellow Trail" is a solid eight-mile hike that takes you through the heart of it. It’s not a manicured lawn; it’s a forest.
The blood-sucking mosquitoes are real. Wear DEET. Seriously.
High Rock and the Views
If you climb to the top of Moses Mountain—which is actually a giant mound of rock left over from a highway project that Robert Moses tried to build through the forest (and lost)—you get a 360-degree view. You see the Atlantic, the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge, and the Jersey Highlands. It’s a quiet reminder that Staten Island is geographically more part of the Jersey shore than the Manhattan skyline.
Historic Richmond Town and the Time Machine
Summer on Staten Island usually involves some weirdly specific local festivals. Historic Richmond Town is a living history village. It’s not a "fake" tourist trap; these are actual historic buildings moved from all over the island to this one spot.
In the summer, they do "History Kitchen" events. You can watch people bake bread in beehive ovens from the 18th century. It sounds dorky. It kind of is. But when you’re standing in a cool stone basement from the 1700s while it's 95 degrees outside, you gain a deep appreciation for colonial architecture.
The Ferry is Actually Great (If You Know the Rules)
The Staten Island Ferry is free. Everyone knows that. But the "new" ferry—the NYC Ferry’s St. George route—is the secret weapon for summer travel. It goes from St. George to Battery Park City and then up to 39th Street in Midtown.
The big orange boats are for the vibe. The small white boats are for the speed.
If you take the big ferry, go to the back of the boat. That’s where the breeze is. You get the iconic view of the Financial District receding into the distance. It’s the best free date in the world. Just don't be the person who stands in the way of the commuters trying to get home. They will move you.
👉 See also: St Augustine Golf Courses: What You Should Know Before You Book a Tee Time
Surprising Spots People Miss
- Snug Harbor Cultural Center: It used to be a home for "aged, decrepit, and worn-out sailors." Now it’s a massive botanical garden and arts space. The Chinese Scholar’s Garden is there. It’s walled off, quiet, and feels like you’ve been transported to the Ming Dynasty.
- The Alice Austen House: A tiny cottage on the water where one of America’s first female photographers lived. The lawn overlooks the shipping lanes. You can watch massive container ships glide past while you sit in the grass.
- Fort Wadsworth: Right under the Verrazzano Bridge. It’s one of the oldest military installations in the country. There are wild goats that live there to eat the weeds. Yes, goats. In New York City. Under a bridge.
The Reality of Transportation
Let's be real for a second. If you don't have a car, summer on Staten Island is a test of patience. The Staten Island Railway (SIR) is basically one line that goes from the Ferry terminal down to Tottenville. If you want to go anywhere else, you’re on a bus.
The S79 SBS (Select Bus Service) is the lifeline that connects the island to the subway in Brooklyn (at 86th St). It’s often crowded. It’s often hot. But it’s the bridge between two worlds. If you’re visiting, plan for extra time. Everything takes longer here.
How to Actually Do This Right
If you want to experience a perfect Saturday, here is the non-tourist blueprint.
Take the ferry around 11:00 AM. Grab a bus or a quick rideshare to Snug Harbor. Walk the gardens until you’re hungry. Head to Forest Avenue for some food—maybe Liedy’s Shore Inn for a drink, it’s one of the oldest bars around. Then, head down to the boardwalk at South Beach. Don’t just sit by the parking lot; walk toward the fishing pier.
Watch the old guys fishing for striped bass and blues. They’ve been there since sunrise. They have stories about the 1970s that will make your hair stand up.
✨ Don't miss: Hollywood Sign Los Angeles CA USA: Why Most People Never Actually Find It
As the sun starts to go down, head back toward St. George. The "Empire Outlets" are there right by the ferry. It’s a mall. It’s fine. But the real draw is the sunset over the harbor. The sky turns this weird bruised purple and orange.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
- Check the Beach Status: Use the NYC 311 app or the DOH website to ensure the water is safe for swimming before heading to Midland or South Beach.
- The "North Shore" vs "South Shore" Divide: The North Shore (near the ferry) is more urban, diverse, and walkable. The South Shore is more suburban and requires a car or a lot of patience with the railway.
- Carry Cash: Some of the best, oldest pizzerias and bars on the island are still cash-only or have "convenience fees" that will annoy you.
- Bug Spray is Non-Negotiable: If you’re hitting the Greenbelt or any of the parks like Wolfes Pond, the ticks and mosquitoes are aggressive.
- The Saturday Sri Lankan Buffet: If you’re going to Lakruwana, aim for the weekend lunch buffet. It’s the most efficient way to try everything.
Staten Island isn't trying to be cool. It isn't trying to be the "next" Williamsburg. It’s just... Staten Island. It’s stubborn. It’s hot. It’s full of woods and ocean and the best food you’ve never heard of. If you can handle the commute, it’s the most rewarding summer day trip in the five boroughs.