You drive down a single-track road that feels like it’s leading nowhere. The grass grows tall in the middle of the tarmac. Suddenly, the land opens up. You’re in Stein, a tiny conservation village on the Waternish peninsula. Right there, perched on the edge of Loch Bay, is the Stein Inn.
It’s been there since 1790. People often call it a "hidden gem," but honestly, if you’re on Skye, it should be your first stop, not your last. Most tourists stick to the "Trident" of the Old Man of Storr, the Fairy Pools, and Quiraing. They miss the soul of the island. The Stein Inn isn't just a place to grab a pint; it is a survivor of Thomas Telford’s failed 18th-century dream to build a massive fishing port here. While the grand plans crumbled, the inn remained.
More Than Just "Old"
Calling the Stein Inn "Skye’s oldest inn" is factually true, but it doesn't quite capture the vibe. It’s a white-washed building that looks like it’s hunkering down against the Atlantic winds.
When you walk through the door, the smell of peat smoke and salt air hits you immediately. It's cozy. Very cozy. The ceilings are low. The walls are thick stone. You’ve got a choice of over 130 whiskies, and if you’re into beer, they’ve been a CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) regular for decades. They even won the North Skye Pub of the Year more times than most people can count.
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The Food Isn't What You'd Expect from a Remote Pub
A lot of people think "old pub" means "frozen burgers." Not here.
The current owner, Charlie Haddock, took over in 2019 and turned it into a family-run powerhouse. Her son Jack might be swimming off the jetty while you eat, and the seafood? It’s basically coming from the water you’re looking at.
- Langoustines: These are usually landed right at the Stein jetty. Sometimes they’re in the kitchen two hours after being caught.
- Venison: Often served as a steak or in a rich pie, usually sourced from Highland hills.
- Fish and Chips: Made with Skye Beer batter. It’s a massive portion.
You’ll find items like Goats' Cheese Bon Bons or Scottish Crowdie on the menu, which shows a level of culinary ambition that rivals much fancier spots in Portree. Just a heads-up: it’s tiny. If you want to eat dinner here, especially in the summer or even a random Wednesday in October, you must book. Otherwise, you’ll be the person standing awkwardly by the bar hoping someone leaves early.
Staying at the Edge of the World
There are only a handful of rooms. They’re small. Let’s be real—if you’re looking for a sprawling five-star resort suite with a walk-in closet, this isn’t it. The walls are a bit thin, and the sinks in some rooms are tucked into alcoves because, well, the building is 236 years old.
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But you’re staying there for the view. Every room faces the sea.
You wake up, and the first thing you see is the Minch stretching out toward the Outer Hebrides. On a clear night, the Northern Lights frequently dance over the loch. There’s no mobile signal. The Wi-Fi is... let’s call it "optimistic." But that is basically the point. It’s a place to disconnect.
Why Waternish Matters
Most visitors skip the Waternish peninsula because it’s a dead-end road. That’s a mistake. Aside from the Stein Inn, you’re right next door to Loch Bay, which is Skye’s only Michelin-starred restaurant (run by Michael Smith). It’s a weirdly high-density area for incredible food.
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What to do nearby:
- Skyeskyns: A 5-star woollen tannery where you can see how sheepskins are traditionally made. It’s a short walk from the inn.
- Trumpan Church: A few miles further up the road. It has a dark, bloody history involving a clan feud between the MacLeods and MacDonalds.
- The Jetty: You can take boat trips directly from Stein for seal watching or even divers' excursions.
The Reality Check
It isn't always sunshine and calm waters. This is the northwest of Scotland. In the winter, the "wind blows a hooly," as the locals say. The breakfast room can be chilly. The single-track road can be a nightmare if you aren't used to reversing into passing places.
But there is something about sitting at those picnic tables outside when the sun starts to set. The sky turns a deep violet, the silhouettes of the islands of Isay and Mingay appear on the horizon, and you realize why the 1960s folk singer Donovan decided to buy a house here. It’s magnetic.
If you’re planning a trip, don't just "swing by." This is a destination. Check the sailing schedules for the CalMac ferries if you're coming from the islands, or prepare for the long drive from the Skye Bridge.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Check the Menu: The Stein Inn updates its specials daily based on what the local fishermen bring in; call ahead to see if the langoustines are "running."
- Booking Strategy: Use the Dish Cult platform or their official website to secure a table at least two weeks in advance for dinner.
- Pack for the Walk: Bring sturdy waterproof boots if you plan to walk up to Trumpan Church; the coastal path is stunning but notoriously boggy.
- Digital Detox: Download your maps for the Waternish area offline before you leave Dunvegan, as GPS can be spotty once you hit the peninsula.