You’re driving through the brick-lined streets of Asheville, North Carolina. The air smells like woodsmoke and expensive espresso. You’ve probably seen the pictures of the Princess Anne Bed and Breakfast. It looks like a postcard. But here’s the thing about historic inns—half the time they’re either "museum-cold" or "creaky-floorboard-annoying." People expect a stuffy, Victorian dollhouse where you’re afraid to touch the curtains.
That is not this place.
Located in the quiet Chestnut Hill neighborhood, just a stone's throw from the chaos of downtown Asheville, this 1894 shingle-style landmark is weirdly comfortable. It was originally built as a hotel for families visiting patients at nearby sanitariums back when Asheville was the "health capital" of the South. Because of that, it doesn't feel like a converted house. It feels like a purpose-built sanctuary. If you’re looking for a generic hotel stay, go hit the Marriott. If you want to understand why people actually fall in love with the Blue Ridge Mountains, you stay here.
The Architectural Quirk Nobody Mentions
Most folks see "Queen Anne" or "Shingle Style" and think of cramped rooms. Architect James Vester Miller—a fascinating figure who was born into slavery and became one of Asheville’s most prominent African American builders—actually worked on several of these historic structures. While the Princess Anne has undergone massive renovations, it retains that specific Miller-era craftsmanship.
The layout is actually pretty intuitive. Unlike those "Grand Dame" hotels where you get lost looking for the ice machine, the Princess Anne is intimate. There are sixteen suites. Each one is a bit different, which can be a double-edged sword if you don’t know what you’re booking. Some have the original fireplaces (non-working now, usually, for safety reasons), while others have these massive, deep soaking tubs that make you forget your phone exists.
The 2003 restoration was the turning point. Before that, the building had seen some rough years. Now, it balances the 1890s vibe with the stuff we actually care about: central AC that doesn't sound like a jet engine and Wi-Fi that actually works through thick plaster walls.
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Why the Breakfast is the Real Hook
Honestly, the "Breakfast" part of B&B is usually a gamble. Sometimes it's a dry muffin and a prayer. At the Princess Anne Bed and Breakfast, it’s a full-on event. They do a two-course served breakfast that changes daily.
One morning you might have a poached pear with a honey-lavender reduction, followed by a savory quiche with local greens. The next, it’s lemon ricotta pancakes. They lean heavily into the "local" thing, which isn't just a marketing buzzword in Asheville; it’s a religion. They get their produce from the WNC Farmers Market and smaller local growers.
The dining room has these large windows that catch the morning mountain light. It's quiet. No blaring TVs. Just the sound of actual silverware clinking and people talking about which trail they’re going to hike at the Arboretum. It’s civilized in a way that feels rare now.
Afternoon Tea and the "Social Hour"
Around 4:00 PM or 5:00 PM, things shift. They do a wine and hors d'oeuvres hour. This is where you meet the "regulars." You’d be surprised how many people have been coming here for twenty years straight. It’s a mix of retired professors, young couples trying to escape Charlotte or Atlanta for a weekend, and international travelers who wanted something more "authentic" than a boutique hotel.
The appetizers aren't just crackers and cheese cubes. It’s usually something thoughtful—think hot artichoke dip or local charcuterie. It’s enough to hold you over until your 8:00 PM reservation at Cúrate or The Admiral.
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The Neighborhood Factor: Chestnut Hill vs. Downtown
Here is the secret: Downtown Asheville is loud. It’s fun, but it’s loud. There are drum circles, bachelorette parties on pedal pubs, and a lot of busking. If you stay right in the center of that, you aren’t sleeping until 2:00 AM.
The Princess Anne is in Chestnut Hill. It’s a residential historic district.
- Walkability: You can walk to downtown in about 15-20 minutes. It’s an uphill walk back, though. Uber is like $7.
- Noise: Non-existent. You hear birds. Maybe a neighbor’s wind chime.
- Parking: They have actual on-site parking. In Asheville, that’s basically like finding a pot of gold.
Most travelers make the mistake of thinking they need to be on Patton Ave to "experience" the city. You don't. Staying slightly off the main drag gives you a place to decompress after you’ve spent the day navigating the crowds at the Biltmore Estate.
What You Should Know Before You Book
Don't just click "reserve" on the first room you see. The suites vary in size significantly.
- The Garden Level: Usually a bit cooler and more private, but you don't get the sweeping views.
- The Upper Floors: These have the best light and the historic feel, but remember, while there is an elevator, it’s a vintage-style one. It’s charming but slow.
- The Annex: Some rooms are located in the adjacent building. They are just as nice, often more modern, but some people feel "disconnected" from the main house. Decide if you want that communal "inn" vibe or more of a private apartment feel.
The price point is usually mid-to-high for Asheville, but when you factor in the $40 value of the breakfast and the free evening wine/food, it often ends up being cheaper than a high-end hotel where they charge you $25 for a "continental" buffet.
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The Biltmore Connection
Everyone goes to the Biltmore. It’s the law when you visit Asheville. The Princess Anne is only about ten minutes from the Biltmore Village entrance. The staff here are basically Biltmore experts. They can tell you exactly when to leave to beat the tour bus rush and which gardens are currently in bloom. They have this institutional knowledge that a front-desk clerk at a chain hotel just won't have.
Real Talk: The "B&B" Awkwardness
Some people hate B&Bs because they don’t want to talk to strangers. I get it. Sometimes you just want to eat your eggs and look at your phone.
The Princess Anne handles this well. The tables are spaced out enough that you aren't forced into a communal dining situation unless you want to be. The staff is attentive but they aren't "hovering." They’ve mastered that weirdly specific art of being available without being intrusive.
If you’re an introvert, you can grab your wine and head out to the stone patio or the fire pit. It’s one of the best spots on the property. Even in October when the mountain air gets that sharp bite, the fire pit makes it feel like you’re at a high-end summer camp for adults.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to stay at the Princess Anne Bed and Breakfast, don't wing it. Asheville is one of the busiest small cities in America.
- Book 3-4 months out for Fall: October is peak "Leaf Peeper" season. The Princess Anne fills up faster than almost anywhere else because of its reputation.
- Specify Dietary Needs: They are incredibly good with gluten-free or vegan requirements, but you need to tell them at least 24 hours in advance so the chef can prep.
- Check the Event Calendar: Asheville has festivals almost every weekend (like Art in the Park or Leaf Festival). Check if your stay coincides with a major event, as traffic around the inn can get slightly trickier.
- Request a Room with a Tub: If you’re a bath person, specifically ask for a suite with the vintage soaking tub. Not all of them have them, and they are worth the upgrade.
- Skip the Heavy Lunch: Between the massive breakfast and the 5:00 PM snacks, you really only need a light snack mid-day. Save your appetite and your money for a high-end dinner downtown.
Staying here isn't just about a bed; it's about slowing down to the pace Asheville used to have before it became a "Top 10 Destination." It’s a bit of that old-world Appalachian hospitality that still exists if you know where to look. Use the inn as your base camp. Spend your mornings in the garden, your afternoons on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and your evenings by the fire pit with a glass of North Carolina craft beer or a local Cabernet. That’s how you actually "do" Asheville.