The Cotswolds are full of places that look like they were pulled straight from a postcard, but Lord of the Manor Hotel in Upper Slaughter is something different entirely. It’s not just another boutique stay. This is a 17th-century honey-stone rectory sitting on about eight acres of private gardens that feel like they belong in a Jane Austen novel. Honestly, if you’re driving through the narrow, winding lanes of Gloucestershire, you might miss the entrance because it’s tucked away so discreetly. That’s sort of the point.
Upper Slaughter itself is a "doubly thankful" village. That's a weird term, right? It basically means every single soldier who went off to both World Wars from this village actually came home. Because of that, the place hasn't changed much in a century. There are no streetlights. There are no shops. There is just the river, the stone cottages, and this massive, imposing manor house that’s been hosting guests since the 1970s.
The Reality of Staying at Lord of the Manor Hotel
People often get intimidated by the name. "Lord of the Manor" sounds like you need a tuxedo just to eat breakfast. You don't. While the vibe is definitely "old-school English country house," the actual experience is much more relaxed than the name suggests. You've got these creaky floorboards that tell you exactly how old the building is, and massive stone fireplaces that smell like woodsmoke in the winter.
It’s cozy.
The hotel has 26 rooms, and here’s the thing: they are all wildly different. If you book a "Country" room versus a "Manor" room, you’re getting a completely different layout. Some have four-poster beds that require a literal step-ladder to climb into; others are more modern with sleek bathrooms. If you’re a tall person, watch your head. These 1600s doorways weren't built for the modern human frame.
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Why the Location Actually Matters
Most people stay here because it’s a base for walking. You can hike from Upper Slaughter to Lower Slaughter in about 20 minutes along the River Eye. It’s arguably the most beautiful walk in England. It’s flat, easy, and ends at an old water mill. If you’re feeling more ambitious, the Warden’s Way and Macmillan Way paths are right there.
The Food Situation (It’s a Big Deal Here)
Historically, Lord of the Manor Hotel was famous for having a Michelin star. They held it for years. Recently, the focus has shifted a bit more toward "relaxed fine dining," which is a fancy way of saying the food is still incredible but you don't have to sit perfectly still for four hours.
The dining room is the heart of the house. They use a lot of local stuff—Gloucestershire Old Spot pork, Vale of Evesham vegetables, and local game.
- Breakfast: You have to try the full English. It’s not the greasy spoon version; it’s high-quality local sausage and thick-cut bacon.
- Afternoon Tea: They do this on the lawn or by the fire. It’s classic. Scones, clotted cream, the whole deal.
- Dinner: Expect a lot of seasonal changes. If it’s autumn, there will be venison. If it’s spring, there will be local asparagus.
One thing to keep in mind is that because the hotel is so secluded, you’re basically eating there unless you want to drive 10-15 minutes to Bourton-on-the-Water or Stow-on-the-Wold. Those towns are great, but the roads are dark at night. Really dark.
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Is it Worth the Price?
Let’s be real. It’s not cheap. You’re paying for the heritage and the silence. If you want a hotel with a massive gym, a high-tech spa, and 24/7 room service that arrives in three minutes, this isn't your place. There is no gym. There is no swimming pool. There is a croquet lawn and a lot of grass.
It’s for people who want to disappear for a weekend.
The service is attentive but "proper." It’s the kind of place where the staff remembers how you like your coffee by the second morning. It feels personal because it’s small.
The Dog Factor
Lord of the Manor is surprisingly dog-friendly. A lot of these high-end manor houses treat pets like a nuisance, but here they actually have specific rooms for dog owners and plenty of space for them to run around. Just keep them on a lead near the sheep in the surrounding fields. Farmers in the Cotswolds don't mess around when it comes to their livestock.
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Logistics and Tips for Your Visit
Getting there is easy if you have a car, but a nightmare if you don't. The nearest train station is Kingham, which is about 15-20 minutes away by taxi. If you're coming from London, it's about a two-hour drive depending on how bad the M40 is.
- Book the "Lords" rooms if you want the full historical experience with the heavy fabrics and antiques.
- Avoid the weekend crowds if you can. Mid-week in the Cotswolds is a different world. It’s much quieter and you’ll likely get a better table in the restaurant.
- Check the wedding calendar. Because it’s so pretty, they host a lot of weddings. If you’re looking for a quiet retreat, call ahead and make sure there isn't a 100-person party taking over the lawn during your stay.
The gardens are a massive highlight. They were designed by landscape architects to look natural but they are meticulously maintained. You’ll see rare trees and hidden corners where you can just sit with a book. It's the kind of place where time sort of stretches out.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
If you're planning a stay, don't just wing it. The Cotswolds are busier than ever.
- Make dinner reservations at the same time you book your room. The dining room fills up with locals and guests from other hotels.
- Bring sensible shoes. Even if you're just walking to the pub in Lower Slaughter, the paths can be muddy.
- Download offline maps. Cell service in Upper Slaughter is patchy at best. Don't rely on your phone's GPS to get you back to the manor after a long hike.
- Visit the Slaughters Manor House nearby for a drink if you want a change of scenery; it’s a bit more modern and "hip" compared to the Lord of the Manor’s traditional feel.
- Explore the "Secret" Church. St Peter’s Church in Upper Slaughter is right next door and contains some incredible Norman carvings and a very peaceful atmosphere.
Ultimately, Lord of the Manor Hotel is about stepping back. It’s for the person who wants to put their phone in a drawer, put on a wool sweater, and pretend for a couple of days that it’s still 1920. It's expensive, it's old-fashioned, and for many people, that is exactly why it's perfect.