William Shatner hated those first uniforms. Seriously. If you look closely at the early episodes of the 1966 season, the fabric looks heavy, almost damp. That’s because it was. Costume designer William Ware Theiss—a man who basically invented the "theatrical peek-a-boo" aesthetic—chose a heavy velour for the primary star trek original series outfits because it caught the studio lights beautifully. It looked like the future. It felt like a nightmare.
Velour shrinks.
By the time the crew hit the second season, those iconic tunics had shrunk so much from dry cleaning and sweat that the actors could barely move their arms. This is why you see Kirk constantly tugging at his hem. It wasn't just a character quirk; he was trying to keep his shirt from riding up to his ribcage.
Why the Colors Actually Changed (and It’s Not What You Think)
Most people think the division colors are simple: Red for security, Blue for science, and Gold for command. But here’s the kicker—there was no "Gold" in the original production plan.
The tunics Kirk and Sulu wore were actually lime green.
I’m not kidding. Under the hot, tungsten studio lights of Desilu Stage 9 and through the specific chemical processing of 1960s Technicolor film, that lime green fabric transformed into the mustard gold we see on our screens today. If you ever visit a museum and see an authentic screen-worn Kirk tunic, you’ll be shocked at how "shrek-colored" it looks in person. The only time we actually saw the "true" command color was when Kirk wore his wraparound tunic. Those were made of a different material—usually a flat polyester or silk-weight fabric—that didn't color-shift under the lights, which is why they look noticeably greener than his standard duty uniform.
Then you have the red shirts.
The "Redshirt" trope is a staple of pop culture now, but back in '66, red was just the most vibrant color available for the new color TV market. NBC practically demanded bright colors to sell RCA television sets. Theiss and Gene Roddenberry wanted the show to pop. Red, being a high-contrast primary color, was perfect for the Engineering and Communications departments. It just so happened that the scriptwriters needed a lot of security guards to get vaporized by salt vampires or poked by poisonous flowers to show the "alien of the week" was dangerous.
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Statistically, if you were wearing one of those red star trek original series outfits, your survival rate dropped by about 73% compared to the blue or gold departments. It’s a grim legacy for a piece of clothing.
The Engineering of a Miniskirt
We have to talk about the women’s uniforms. They are controversial now, but at the time, Nichelle Nichols (Uhura) actually defended them. She viewed the miniskirt as a symbol of the liberation movement happening in the real world during the late sixties.
Theiss didn't just make "short dresses." He engineered them. These outfits were essentially one-piece leotards with a skirt overlay. This allowed the actresses to perform stunts or move around the bridge without... well, wardrobe malfunctions. The boots were another story. Most of the female cast wore custom-fitted leather boots that had to be zipped up the back, but because the budget was always tight, background extras often wore spray-painted go-go boots bought off the rack in Los Angeles.
Fabric Wars and the Transition to Double-Knit
By the third season, the velour disaster became untenable. The shirts were falling apart. The solution was a move to nylon double-knit.
This changed everything. Double-knit was the "wonder fabric" of the late sixties. It didn't shrink. It held its shape. It also looked slightly more professional and less like pajamas. If you watch the final season, you’ll notice the collars look stiffer and the colors are a bit more muted. The "Gold" became a bit more of a flat tan, and the "Red" lost some of its velvet-like depth.
Theiss also loved his hidden zippers. If you look at the back of a Starfleet tunic from the original series, you won’t see a zipper. They were hidden along the shoulder seam and down the side. This gave the impression that the clothes were "grown" or manufactured by a futuristic 3D printer, rather than being sewn together by humans. It’s a subtle detail that adds to the "high-concept" feel of the show.
Rank Insignia and the Braid Mystery
Ever notice the gold braid on the sleeves? It’s basically just fancy metallic ribbon, but the way it was applied told a whole story of rank that the show barely explained.
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- Captain: Two solid lines of braid with a dashed line in between.
- Commander: Two solid lines.
- Lt. Commander: One solid line and one dashed line.
- Lieutenant: One solid line.
There were no pips like in The Next Generation. It was all about the "scrambled egg" look on the sleeves. Interestingly, the insignia patches—the "deltas"—were actually specific to the ship. In the original series concept, the Delta was the symbol for the USS Enterprise, not all of Starfleet. You see other ships in the series where the crew wears different shapes (circles, stylized flowers, etc.). It wasn't until the movies that the Enterprise Delta became the universal symbol for the entire organization.
The Logistics of Space Boots
The footwear in these star trek original series outfits was surprisingly high-end. They weren't just cheap props. Most of the main cast had boots made by a local shoemaker in Hollywood. They were sleek, had no visible laces, and featured a slight Cuban heel.
Why the heel?
It made the actors look taller and more "heroic" on camera. Shatner, Nimoy, and Kelley all wore variations of this boot. For the men, the pants were often held down by "stirrups" that went under the foot inside the boot. This kept the pant leg perfectly straight, preventing that annoying "bunching" at the ankles that ruins the silhouette of a futuristic soldier. It’s a trick still used in military dress uniforms today.
Dressing the "Others": The Mirror Universe and Beyond
When the show did "Mirror, Mirror," Theiss went into overdrive. He knew he couldn't just change the colors; he had to change the vibe.
The Mirror Universe outfits introduced the "Sash" and the "Dagger." He also put Spock in a vest and Kirk in a sleeveless wrap. It was a subtle way of saying this universe is more aggressive, more primal. The use of gold trim increased ten-fold. It’s one of the few times the show leaned into "space opera" flamboyance rather than the "space navy" utilitarianism of the standard uniforms.
Then you have the aliens. Theiss had a rule: if it looks like a zipper or a button, it’s not futuristic. He used Velcro (which was relatively new and high-tech at the time) and hidden snaps. He also used unconventional materials like upholstery fabric, bubble wrap, and even shower curtains to create alien textures.
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The Legacy of the Look
You see the influence of these star trek original series outfits everywhere today. When you look at modern tech-wear or the minimalist aesthetic of companies like Apple, there is a direct line back to the clean, primary-color-coded world of 1966.
Theiss proved that you don’t need a thousand pockets and straps to look "military." You just need a strong silhouette and a consistent color language. Even the "skant" (the male skirt) seen briefly in the early episodes of the 80s spin-offs was a nod to the gender-neutral philosophy Roddenberry and Theiss were trying to bake into the original series—even if the network wasn't quite ready for it yet.
How to Identify Authentic Reproductions
If you’re a collector looking for a screen-accurate version of these outfits, you have to be careful. Most "costume shop" versions use a cheap polyester that is too shiny and the wrong weight.
- Fabric: Look for a high-quality cotton velour or a specific double-knit nylon.
- The Delta: The patch should be embroidered with metallic thread, not printed.
- The Collar: It should be a black ribbed material that sits flush against the neck.
- The Fit: It should be tighter than you think. These were "form-fitting" to the point of discomfort for the original actors.
Actionable Steps for Cosplayers and Historians
If you're looking to recreate or study these iconic pieces of television history, don't just buy a "Kirk shirt" off an auction site and call it a day.
First, study the weave. The transition from Season 1 velour to Season 3 double-knit is the most important distinction for any serious historian. If you are aiming for a Season 1 look, you need to find a fabric that has a "nap" (a directional texture) that catches light.
Second, get the boots right. The silhouette of the TOS uniform is entirely dependent on the boots. You need a high-calf, black leather boot with a flat or slightly raised heel and a hidden zipper on the inside or back. Anything with laces or visible buckles will immediately break the "future" illusion.
Finally, understand the tailoring. These garments were tailored to the specific bodies of the actors. There was no "Large" or "Medium." If you want the authentic look, you have to tailor the waist and the sleeves. The sleeves should end exactly at the wrist bone to show off the rank braid. If they are too long, you look like you’re wearing your dad’s shirt. If they’re too short, the rank insignia looks crowded.
The enduring power of these outfits isn't just nostalgia. It’s the fact that they represent a hopeful, clean, and organized future. They are simple, bold, and—despite the shrinking velour and the "mustard" green paint—absolutely timeless.